Turn-down collars with different height stands. Turn-down collars in the form are divided into the stand-up fold-over, semi-erect and the women's flat.
Erect-semi-erect and fold-over collars for appearance, represent the rack bent at the fold leaving. Depending on stand height and fit of the collar to the neck changing the build line vrachevanie in the neck. Construction drawing design stand-up collar-fold-over semi-erect and should be performed outside of the drawing products, women's flat - on the product drawing.
Construction drawing standing-the fold-over collar outside drawing of the products are produced according to the following scheme.

Build a right angle (Fig. 50) with the vertex at point O. Up from her lay the cut S, which determines the magnitude of the rise in the middle of the collar, which depends on the type of collar. For collars with a tight fit (stand, 2.5 - 3 cm) S = 1...3 see For collars with a rack to 3 cm and less than tight fit to the neck of the S = 4...5 cm To the collar behind the neck with persistent 1.5 - 2 cm S = 6...8 cm For semi-erect with collar stand 4 - 5 cm S = 6 cm In Fig. 50, and provides an example of a stand-up collar-fold-over with slight adhesion to the neck, where S = 4 cm., the height of the stand 3 cm.
From point b on the horizontal side of the angle, make a notch with a radius equal to the length of the neckline minus 0.1 S (point a).
VA = Dhol + PPOs - 0,1 S; PPOs = 0,3...0,7 cm.
Segment VA is divided into three parts, i.e., AA1 = VA/3. From point A up raise a perpendicular, on which lay cut AA2 = 0.5 cm Line BA1 is divided in half and lay in the middle of 0,3 cm up the Line of vrachevanie collar draw a concave line on a plot of BA1 with a smooth connection points A1 and A2. Rack height BB1 = 3 cm.
The width of the flight determined by the cut В1В2.
The width of the collar in the middle depends on the model and recommendations of fashion and the sum of stand height and width of departure. Depending on the style and width of the collar BB2 = 5...15 cm.
To build the front sections of the collar on the perpendicular from the point A upward from the point A2 lay cut А2А3 = QQ2 - 1 cm (depending on the model this value may decrease or increase). From point A3 hold the line to the right at a right angle to the line А2А3 and lay cut АЗА4 that defines the angle of the ends of the departure of the collar. The ends of the departure of the collar can be in the form of a dull, acute or right angles with rounded or pointed ends. Points A2 and A4 connect direct.To build external cut departure from the point B2 is carried out directly at right angles to the line ОВ2 and lay cut В2А5 = 5...7, see Points A4 and A5 connect with a straight line. Deflection straight А5А4 in the middle 0.5 - 2 cm (depends on the type of collar). The front ends of the collar can be made slightly concave line on the plot А4А2.
  Stand collar with detachable stand (Fig. 50, b). The rise of mid-collar to the line of departure (S=4 cm).
The length of the collar through vrachevanie define a cut point with radius equal to the length of the neckline minus 0.5 cm (point a). In the middle of the straight line VA put a point 1. Through her conduct perpendiculars 1 - 2 = 0,5...0,7 cm; 1 - 3 = 0,5...0,7 cm.
Line primaqiune departure to the front hold a smooth line through the points V, 2, A.
In our example, the width of the departure BB2 = 6 cm.
On the perpendicular from the point A lay segment, AAZ = BB2 + 1 see
The length of the segment А3А4 = 7.5 cm Point A4, and connect A slightly concave line. External cut departure В2А5 = 7 see Point A5 and A4 connect a smooth line with a deflection in the middle of 0.3 - 0.5 cm.
To build the rack with the strap from the point To spend the perpendicular to the line ISLANDS and lay BB1 = 2 see the Front of the line continue down and AA3 from point A lay AA2 = 1.7 cm, the Points B1 and A2, connect direct. Line protecive stand to go spend through the points V 3 and And and its continuation to the right of the point A lay length of the strap.
Line vrachevanie collar into the neck of the product is carried out by a smooth curve connecting the points B1 and A2 (deflection at the middle is 0.5 - 0.7 cm).
On the continuation of vrachevanie to the right of point A2 lay the length of the strap. Lines primaqiune stands to leave and the line of vrachevanie collar in the neck of a given seam. Allowance is given also to the middle of the collar.
  Half-standing collar with a detachable stand. The rise of the middle of the collar (Fig. 50) to the line of primaqiune departure to the front OV1 = 6 cm Height of the rack BB1 = 4...5 cm Width of flying В1В2 = 7...8 see
The length of the line В1А is equal to the length of the neckline minus 1.5 cm In the middle of the straight В1А put a dot 1. Cut 1 - 2 = 1, see Through the points B1, 2 and A hold a smooth line primaqiune departure to the front. In our example, the cut of AAZ = 8.5 cm; А3А4 = 9.5 cm.
Points A and A4 connect direct. External cut departure В2А5 = 6 cm.
Points A5 and A4 connect direct. The deflection at the middle of the straight А4А5 = 0,5...0,7 cm slice departure hold a smooth line through the points B2, A5 and A4.
To build a cutting stand in front of the point B1 with a radius of В1А hold the arch up and lay AA1 = 1.5 cm to the Left of point A on line A, 2, B1 postpone 6.5 cm and put a point B. the Points A1 and connect in a smooth line similar to the line Islands. Line protecive stand for a flight which passes through points B1, 2, and A1. To determine the position of point A2 and construction line vrachevanie rack in the neck hold two arcs: from point To a radius equal to the length of the neck plus 0.5 cm from point A1 of radius equal to the height of the front (3 cm). At the intersection of the arcs put a point A2. A1A2 = 3 cm.Point and A2 connect In a straight line. The deflection at mid-BA2 direct - 0,7 cm. along the lines of primaqiune stands to leave and Tachibana collar in the neck are given a seam.
  Stand-up collar (stand collar). Stand-up collars represent a stand without leaving.
To build the stand-up collar slant shape in the side of the neck, build a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 50, g). Up from point And delay value of the lifting rack AA2. In contrast to the vertical forms stand in the rack with a slope to the side of the neck, the magnitude of the rise is increased to 4 - 6 cm.
From point A2 on the horizontal side of the angle, make a notch with a radius equal to the length of the neckline minus 0,1АА2 (point b). Of points In A2 and the perpendiculars build stand height: BB1 = 2.5 cm; А2А3 = 2.5 cm of a Point In a and A2 and B1 and A3 connect the smooth lines.
Figure ВА2А3В1 is a stand-up collar with a slope to the side of the neck, with the same width front and rear.
To build the rack, extended front, it is necessary to deepen the neck of the shelves under the line of prosanos from the point of AB-down on the value of the extension.
From point To a radius of BA2 hold the arch down and lay cut А2А21 equal to the extension collar. Through the points V and A21 hold a smooth line on which lay the length of the neck plus 0.5 cm (point A4). Points A3 and A4 connect direct. Through vrachevanie collar and collar are in the middle of the seam.

Note. The degree of fit collars to the neck depends not only on the design of the collar, but the shape of the neck. The gap of the collar from the neck can be achieved a uniform deepening of the neck around the entire circumference.

The figure shows the deepening of the neck without shifting down of the points A and AB on the back shelf.
  Collar Apache. Collars type Apache (Fig. 50, d) are subject to the same design scheme as the stand-up collar-fold-over. They can be cutting and clinofibrate with shelf. Form collars of the type of Apache depends on the stand height, the nature of inflection and the degree of fit to the neck. A large variety of collars is achieved by a different design of a slice of a departure. Apache stand-up collar-fold-over with a cutting counter, are based on collar business suit type. From point L, hold tangent to the neck (the point F0). At the intersection of the tangent with the line of the shoulder put a point S0.On the continuation of the direct Лз0 upward from a point S0 lay length of the neck of the back (point Z1). From the point F0 with a radius of Ф0з1 hold the left arc. From the point Z1 to the left along the arc lay cut з1з2 = Stoiki + 0.5 cm Points of Z2 and F0 connect direct. On the perpendicular from the point Z2 to the straight з2Ф0 lay з2з3 stand height and width of departure з3з4. The line stands is carried out from the point з3 with a smooth transition from the line stands in a fold line of the lapel.
The width of the collar at the ends of the lay from the point L2 (point BV). Cut з4з5 on the edge of departure is 5 - 7 cm of the Point H5 and STS connect the line in accordance with the shape of the collar.
To build a cutting stand point з3 radius з3Ф conduct an arc up and to the right of the point f lay stand height (point B0). Point з3 and B0 connect a smooth line. From the point з3 through the middle of the collar lay з3В1 = з2з3. Point B1 and B0 connect a smooth line.