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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§18. The design of hoods

To build the hood requires the following measurements: circumference of head, height of head height of head behind.
 
Head height (Whol) measured from the base of the neck through the highest point of the head to the base of the neck with the other hand.
 
The height of the back of the head (Ugol.h) is measured from neck point across the back of the head to the line that defines the open part of the face in the forehead from above. Merc is control.
 


Fig. 51. Drawings of hoods:
and with a tight fit to the head; b - hood collar soft forms; to - hood collar soft shapes such as Apache; g - shape with volume, complete with collar; d - three parts with a tight fit to the head


 Hood with a tight fit to the head (Fig. 51, a). From the point A41 to the left horizontally lay the cut А41О equal to the width of the neck backless А10А1 + 2 cm (see Fig. 48). From point O (see Fig. 51, a) up vertically, lay the amount of lift of the hood is equal to 3 cm (point b). From a point up vertically, lay the segment BB1 = 0.5 Vgol + 1.5 cm From the point B1 to the right horizontally lay the cut В1В2 = 0.5 As + 2 cm From point B2 down vertical lay cut В2В21 = 3 see Point Q21 and AB1 direct connect. In this embodiment, the Central fastener up to the top, the points of AB and AB1 are combined.
 
To create the oval shape of the hood cut В1В2 divided in half (point B3). From point B1 down vertical lay cut В1В4 = В1ВЗ. From point B3 of radius В1ВЗ hold down the arc, the second arc is carried out in the same radius from point V4. At the intersection of the arcs put a point C. From point C as the center of the radius of the CEH carried out the arc to a point Q4 and, continuing the arc down from point B4 2 cm, put a dot В41. The points B3 and B21 to connect a smooth line and continue to the right lay the cut В21В22 = 3 cm Segment of the A61 B21 and divide in half (point 1). Points B22 and 1 connect a smooth line.
 
From the point A41 to the left of the line of the shoulder cut lay 1.5 cm and put a point S0. Line vrachevanie of the hood is carried out through the points In S0 and smoothly blending with the line of the neck shelves.
 
To construct the Darts in the side of the hood determines the position of the line mid-tuck. The intersection point O1 of the line А41О line vrachevanie hood is connected to the point C. On the line О1Ц build a tuck. From the point O1 to the left and to the right lay the half tuck solution (for 1 cm, if the solution of the Darts 2 cm). The length of the tuck from the point O1 on the line О1Ц 6 - 7 cm.
 
To determine the length of the line vrachevanie hood in the neck when building from the tuck points In the A61 and left and right delay to 1 cm, i.e., TSB = 1 cm; А61А'61 = 1, see Point B0 and В41 connect with a straight line. The'61 carried out a smooth line up with the transition in the line of the front cut of the hood. On the outer sections of the hood are given seam.
 
 Hood soft forms (Fig. 51, b). The product with this hood features a notched lapels cuffed hem.

А41О = А01А1 (the width of the neck backless) + 2 cm;

S = Z cm; А41з0 = 1,5 - 2 see
 
Through the points In S0 and carry out a smooth line to the neckline shelves. To the left of the point In delaying the solution tuck (point B0).

В0В1 = 0.5 VGA + 3.5 cm; В1В2 = 0.5 As + 2;

В2В21 = 1.5 cm (bevel the midline of the hood top).
 
Points Q21 and A61 motorways connect straight to the middle where you put a point 1. Point v3 located at the midpoint of the segment В2В1, and point Q21 conduct a smooth line to the right and from the point Q21 lay 1.5 cm (location B22). Points B22 and 1 connect a smooth line.
 
From the point B1 to the right and down lay 5 - 6 cm and put, respectively, point B11 and B12. The intersection of the perpendiculars from the points B11 and B12 is denoted by the letter C1. Downward from the point B1 delay period В1В4 = В1В3. Perpendiculars from points B3 and B4 intersect at point C.
 
From point O1 (located at the intersection of the line А41О line vrachevanie hood) to the right lay one half of the solution tucks and the resulting point O2 is connected to the point C. Solution all Darts aside from the line О2Ц left; length tuck 6-7, see
 
The hood and collar attach decorative strap whose length hem 5 cm, width 3 cm; strap two loops.
 
 Hood collar soft shapes such as Aloha (Fig. 51,). The product has lapels, and cuffs. At the top of the hood is constructed tuck. Determine the position of the point C (see Fig. 51, a). Point C is connected to the point B1. At the intersection with the occipital part of the hood dot 4. Solution tuck 4,5 sm 4 - 5 = 2.25 cm; 4 - b = 2,25 cm Length of 6 tuck - 7 see В1В2 = 0.5 As - 2 see the Bevel in the upper part В2В21 = 1.5 cm; В21В22 = 1.5 cm Length cut AT221 = 0,25 В22Л2.
 
The deflection of the line 1Lin the middle of a 2 - leg 2 - 3 = 0,7, see the Front of the hood is carried out through the points B22, 1, 3, L2.
 
 Hood of three-dimensional form, complete with collar. The product lapels-lapels without rascepa. Collar neotrazimoi stand. To build the hood (Fig. 51, g) point-A41 lay cut А41О = А01А1 (the width of the neck backless) + 2 cm; S = Z cm; ВВ0 = Z, see

В0В1 = Vgol + 2...3 cm; В1В2 = 0.5 As + 2...3 cm;

В2В21 = 1.5 cm.
 
From the point of the ledge lapel conduct A61 horizontal,right to the intersection with the vertical drawn from the point B2 (point B5). In51= В21В5/3. The deflection line In211 in the middle 2 - 3 = 0,7 cm.
 
On the bisector of the angle 1В5А61 lay cut В5В6 = 0,5А61В5. Segments В1В11 = В1В12 = 5...6 cm determine the position of the point C1.
 
The external contour of the hood is carried out through: A61, S0, B, B12, C1, B11, B21, 3, 1, B6, A61. To the outer contour of the given seam.
 
 Hood in three parts with a tight fit (Fig. 51, d). From the point A41 to the left lay the width of the neck backless plus 2 cm, and the solution of the Darts equal to 2 cm (point В01).

В01В0 = Z cm; В0В1 = 0.5 Vgol + 2 cm; В1В2 = 0.5 As 2 cm;

В2В21 = 1.5 cm; В21В22 = Z cm;

    In211 = 0,5В21Л.
 
Points B22 and 1 connect a smooth line.

В01В0 = Shorl.s/3 В0В = 2 cm (a mortar tuck); ВВ02 = 1.7 cm (height of stand).
 
Points B02 and B4 connect a smooth line. Parallel to the outer contour B22, B3, C1, B4 and B02 at a distance of 4 cm inside the building external perimeter side of the hood (2 parts) through the points In'22,'3,'4,'02. To build the middle part of the hood point B1 and C, connect a straight line and at the intersection with the outer contours dots C1 and C2. Through the points C1 and'4 hold the vertical down to the rack or, in its absence, to the line of vrachevanie hood (dot В0З). From the point В0З line stands to the left continue to the intersection with the vertical from point B1 (point B04), В04В5 = 0.5 solution tuck.
 
From point C1 is carried out horizontal and to the left at the intersection with the vertical drawn from the point B1, draw a spot of the WB. The occipital part of the hood is determined by figure C1, В0З, B5 and WB, the fold line passes through the points Ц1В03.
 
To build the top of the hood through the points C1 and V'3 perform live before the intersection with front cut (point B7). From points C1 and B7 on the perpendiculars lay up to 4 cm (point B11 and B12). Point B11, B12 connecting a straight line and from point lay B12 0.7 cm (the point B8). Points B7 and B8 connect direct.
 
The upper part of the hood is determined by figure C1, B11, B8, B7. The bend line passes through the points Ц1В7.
 
The middle part of the hood, you can build and detail.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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