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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§19. Options for building boards

Depending on the width of prosanos products can be single-breasted and double-breasted. Single-breasted to include those products in which the width of prosanos is 3 - 4 cm in coats, 5 - 6 cm in coat, 4 - 5 cm in jackets, as well as the products in which the fastener butt joint (Fig. 52, a). Allowance to palukanos to the incorporation of the trimming edge is equal to 1.5 - 2 cm (if using a hanging loop, the seam allowance 1 cm).
Double-breasted to include those products in which the width of prosanos is 6 - 8 cm in men, 8 - 10 cm in a coat, 9 - 11 cm in winter coat. It should be borne in mind that these dimensions are for double-breasted and choice of products can vary dramatically - depending on the product style and fashion [for example, a jacket, a windbreaker (Fig. 52, b) with polutanata 13 - 15 cm, where the length and width of lapel depend on the direction of the clasp and demands of fashion].
In products with a clasp at the end of the folded lapel is always done loop, which can be or at the level of the lower end of the bend or lower it to 1 - 1.5 cm Width of the side lay at the upper and lower loops (in a single-breasted products with curvatures of the upper and lower loops (in a single-breasted products with a fillet at the bottom) or from the level of the top hinge and the bottom (products with a vertical line the edge of the Board). The length of the lapel is largely connected with the neck of the shelves. Depression (lowering) of the neck entails a lengthening of the lapel and the lowering of the zipper.Thus extended line rascepa and collar. Lower rascepa the width of the lapel is reduced. The common point of the neckline shelves and lapel is the point of the ledge to the A61. The position of the point A61 depends on the length rascepa and style. А61Л2 = 4.5 to 5.5 cm.
In products without rascepa where the A61 point coincides with point A6 (at this point the A6 is lowered below the normal position of 1 - 2.5 cm) constructed lapels wider.
In products with zipper top the width of the lapel, as a rule, does not differ from the width of the Board as a whole. Point to the A61 is in line prosanos, somewas point A6. In a number of products with zipper top, depending on the shapes of features point to the A61 may be located at some distance from the line of prosanos (point A6) (Fig. 52). Along the entire length of the product polisano may be of equal width or extension in the upper part (with the features of the model or style, Fig. 52, g).



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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