1. PROPERTIES of CLOTHING AND the requirements of HER

 performance properties of clothing. Clothing should conform to the purpose and conditions operation: to have a good landing on a figure, be comfortable to wear, durable and reliable throughout the service life. 

In the process of socks clothing is exposed to various mechanical and atmospheric influences. The durability of the product depends on the properties of the tissue, type of treatment and conditions socks products. 
 
 Hygienic properties of clothing. Performance and hygienic properties of clothing are: teplonositel, air permeability, water absorption, and dust holding capacity. Depending on the time of year clothing must meet the relevant requirements: to protect the human body from overcooling in winter and overheatingsummer. Clothing should provide freedom of movements of the person, and the ease of caring for it. 
 
Professional clothes are your specific requirements. For example, clothing for sailors needs possess windproof and water-repellent properties. 
 
 Aesthetic properties. Clothing plays an important role in shaping the external appearance of a person. It must meet the aesthetic tastes of the consumer, laws of the visual perception, to distinguish the beauty and perfection of the art plan. 
 
When designing clothes plays a special role in the composition products: the proportions of the parts, their artistic relationship, silhouette and line, color and texture of the fabric, exterior trim. The choice of the composition depends age and characteristics of the shape of the consumer. All this is necessary note artists-designers, designers and technologists when creating clothing.
 
 Economic requirements for clothing. The cost main and auxiliary materials is 85 - 90 % of the totalthe cost of the product. On the efficiency of the product affected by the cost of time for its manufacturing, technological design, consumption of materials (rational layout patterns). Of great importance is the unification parts and components, which allows to improve the technology machining parts, introduce new equipment, reduce time of production of the product as a whole. This gives you the opportunitysignificantly improve quality and increase productivity.

2. FEATURES DESIGN FOR MASS PRODUCTION AND INDIVIDUAL TAILORING 

under conditions of mass production the manufacture of clothing is the following stages: modeling, design, and reproduction of patterns on products for different sizes and Rostov, sewing. 
 
Process create clothes models include: the development or choice of model in the form the General project products and artistic design models, implementation project in the material.
 
The most common means expression projects in modeling are: the model project in the material expression of the project in the form of a sketch or photo and modeling (tattooed).
 
Product design is creating technical drawings (main and control) and patterns for medium size, growth and completeness in accordance with the model adopted. The process of developing a design model covers the following issues: study and analysis of models; selection of the relevant basic silhouette framework; clarifying or changing the fundamentals and transfer on her model features; in some cases, the development of a new silhouette basics.
 
Studying the model, determine the form of clothes, silhouette, fit, size, growth, completeness, type of fabric, width of product along the lines of the chest, waist, hips, width and the length of the collar and lapels, the shape and size of sleeves, etc. 
 
Designing garments for individual orders in the Studio has a number features. Fashion designers perform design of the model; the design engaged the cutters. Modeling and designing in individual manufacture of clothes for faster respond the change of fashion.
 
The design must take into account numerous the specific features of the customer: age, completeness, type of posture and Constitution etc. of Great importance are texture, color, pattern and the area tissue and also the influence of technological processes on it properties. 
 
Wide application currently has product design with basic curves adding the design of the relevant changes associated with the figure of the customer.
 
The basic patterns are the design details top products developed in full compliance with the direction of modern fashion. In each part indicate the direction of the warp threads and places measurements of the main structural sections with appropriate allowances on free fit. In addition, given the measurements of typical figures for sizes recommended for this silhouette. The patterns attached technical description.
 
Measured by the standards of the customer's figure find the patterns of the base substrate. Work with them reduces the cost time to uncover the product, can significantly reduce the fabric consumption. 
 
When designing complex products due to peculiarities of cut, style or shape of the customer, for pre-cutting start by drawing on paper and then patterns. 
 
Wide the distribution among the cutters received the design of the product directly on the fabric. This method requires large cutter experience and solid theoretical training. 

3. SYSTEM DESIGN

 The crappy system. In a literal translation from French means fake cast, for sure transmitting the shape of the object. The crappy system is the modeling and designing the clothes directly on the figure or mannequin in help ink using paper prototyping or underlying tissue. When the crappy method of any calculations do not produce. After being tattooed clarify the contours of the parts and make a scan of the product on the plane in accordance with shape and style. Specifying the contours of the parts are cut out and laid on plane, get the primary pattern of the product.
 
This method designing clothes requires considerable expenses of time and high qualifications of the contractor. It is used in the manufacture of a separate complex individual orders. 
 
 Proportional payment system. When designing clothes using a proportional calculation all indicators are calculated on the basis of growth and poluobhvat chest. The basis of calculation formulae is the principle of proportional based on the dimensions of the individual parts of the human body.
 
Repeated anthropological examination of the population of Central scientific research Institute of sewing industry (TSNIISHP) showed that, despite the fairly high bond to a variety of measurements the human body with the growth and bust, some measurements (e.g., waist and hips) have independent variability. Soit is impossible to fasten with one chest only one variant of girth waist or thighs. 
 
 Calculation and graphic system. It developed TSNIISHP on the basis of the analytical method. Advantage this method is that all formulas are mathematical study and drawings of building designs, using graphic scanner a smoothed outline of a human figure with the necessary increases in loose fit.
 
For drawing designs use the absolute value of the dimensional characteristics of the model figures men, women or kids in accordance with OST 17-325 - 86 or measurement (measurements) taken from figures in the manufacture of products for individual orders. The whole drawing is based on the natural measurements of the shape, so use proportional calculations excluded.
 
In the practical work allowed the replacement of one dimensional characteristic other in that case, if between them there is a significant installed anthropometry connection. For example, the height of the shoulder is determined by subtracting VP the value of dimensional characteristic 5 VP.t from the value of dimensional characteristic 10 VSH.t, where 5 VP.t - the height of the shoulder point (measured verticallydistance from floor to shoulder point); 10 VSH.t - height of neck point (measured vertical distance from the floor to the cervical point). 
 
So, to determine the top of the neck shelves use measuring
Dt.p - for the calculation of Dt.p = Dt.p - LH.about.W (where Dt.p - dimensional symptom 61; Dt.p - dimensional symptom P6; DS.Osh - dimensional characteristic 7b). 
 
To determine the structural point of serif used a method using two dimensions. 
 
When using a one dimensional basis for building or other node designs (e.g., width of back, length of back, etc.) apply the graphical method, i.e. the construction of the scan surface products geometrical by. 
 
On the basis of the calculation and graphic system developed by a uniform method design to ensure the unity of principles of designing men's, women's and children's clothing. 
 
The versatility of the design formulas and methods of drawing design a single method does not depend on fashion. If you change fashion create new models techniques for constructing drawings and structure keycalculation formulas remain unchanged, the only changes are some the parameters, coefficients and absolute values. 
 
 A single method design developed by the Central test-technical the sewing laboratory of the Ministry of consumer services of the RSFSR (TOTSL), used for the manufacture of products for individual orders. In this method, some complex calculations are simplified or replaced standards: an indicator of posture and additional height measurement barrel EOS (designed to determine the level of the chest line); givenfeatures of construction of the sleeves, stooped and perigenital figure. Of measurement used in a single method, ensure the accuracy of the build design any shape and work with one fitting and without fitting.

SELF-ASSESSMENT 

1. What consumer characteristics should have the clothes? 
2. What does the performance properties of clothing? 
3. What are the indicators to determine the hygienic quality of clothing?
4. What is the special aesthetic requirements for the clothes? 
5. What are the financial requirements for clothing? 
6. What are the features of making clothes for individual orders of the population? 
7. What are the features of making clothes in mass production? 
8. What design methods do you know? 
9. What are the characteristics of models of the system design?
10. What are the main disadvantages of proportional design systems design do you know? 
11. What are the characteristics of design-graphical system design? 
12. What are the advantages of a common method of designing clothes? 
13. What is the common method and what is its significance for design in the individual production?