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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§1. Build the batch file

The most common products with sleeves casual shirt are jackets soft shapes, reminiscent of a jacket, various shirts, summer jackets unlined shirt-jacket and overalls, and also jackets. 
The design of most of these products close to sports or work clothes.
The length of the jackets can be different - from the waist to the thighs or close hips. Sleeves shirt, straight collar with patch pockets the upper part, with transverse and longitudinal zipper; cuff mediumwidth. Through the use of a boxy sleeveless (shirt type, Raglan, clinofibrate) shoulder line extended and rounded. 
The drawings of the batch file build the model figure. 
Allowances for free customized fit, see: 
PG = 8 PN.throats = 1
PS.PR = W.n = 11 
PD.t.C = 0,5
The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the back - 20,4; to the shelf - 19,2; to the area of the openings - 50 - (20,4 + 19,2) = 10,4. 
If the allowance on the chest GHG sweater 8 sm, distributes it, as in the jacket, with the appropriate allowance. Thus the width of the openings must to be 14.5 - 15 cm for the size 50.
The width of the areas on the drawing: backrest: ГГ11 = RC + PN.+ PN = 20,4 + 2 + 1 = 23,4; armhole: Г11Г4 = UPR + PPR = 10,4 + 4,6 = 15 cm; shelves: Г3Г4 = CG + PN.g + PN = 19,2 + 1,4 + 1 = 21,6 cm

  Construction drawing of the back (Fig. 67). The level of the waist line 
at = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 0,5 = 46 see 
the Level of the chest line 
AG = VLOOKUP.s + PS.PR = a 21.5 + 3 = 24.5 cm. 
Length of sweater 
EN = at + 27 = 46 + 27 = 73 cm 
Width of the neck backless 
AA1 = SSH/3 + PN.throat + extension cap = 20/3 + 1 + 1 = 8,8 cm 
the height of the neck backless 
A1A2 = А01А1/3 + PN = 8,8/3 + 1 = 3.9 cm, 
the height of the armhole of the backrest 
Г11П2 = 0,5 DP + PS.PR + PST + PN = 18 + 3 + 1,5 + 1 = 23,5 see 
the side cut on the chest 
Г11Г2 = PDS/2 = 15/2 = 7.5 cm
the length of the line of the shoulder cut
А2П1 = SHP + 2 = 15,5 + 2 = 17.5 cm 
the position of the line of coquette AU' = 8.5 cm 
From the point of' hold the horizontal to the line of the armhole (point П31). Solution tuck in the yoke П31П32 = 1.5 cm 
Elongation tuck in the armhole of the backrest on Pribivanie П32П33 = 1,5...2, see 
Migrating the shoulder cut up А2А21 = 1.5 cm; П1П11 = 1.5 cm.
For the construction of the lateral cut back of the point G2 is carried out vertical to bottom line and at the intersection with the waist line put a point T31 line bottom - the point N21. Up from point lay H21 6 cm and put the point N22. Left from points T31 and N22 respectively, is set aside 1.7 cm and 1 cm Т31Т2 = 1.7 cm; Н22Н2 = 1 cm 
From the point N to the right lay 10 cm and put the point H1. The bottom draw straight line through points H and H1 and then a smooth line to the point H2. 

  Construction drawing of the shelves. Mouth width shelves 
аА4 = SSH/3 + 2 = 20,5/3 + 2 = 8,8 see 
the Highest point of the neck shelves
Т4А41 = Dt.p + PD.t.+ PN + 0,5 = 45 + 0,5 + 1 + 0,5 = 47 see 
the Depth of the neck 
А41А5 = 0,4 Nl + 1 = 0,4 x 20.5 + 1 = 9,2 cm 
To build a neckline point A41 and AB connect auxiliary straight and on the middle dot 5. The deflection line 5 - b = 2 cm. The neckline is carried out through the points A41, b, AB. 
The height of the armhole shelves 
Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + PS.PR + PN = 0.5 x 36 + 3 + 1 = 22 cm 
shoulder Width 
А41П50 = SHP + PN = of 15.5 + 1 = 16.5 cm see 
the position of the reference point Pb and the openings 2 is defined by the segments: 
Г4Пб = 0,25Г4П4 + 0,5 = 0,25 x 22 x 0.5 = 6 cm; 
    G42 = PDS 0,25 - 1,5 = 2.2 cm 
reference point P7 (П6П7 = 2 cm). 
For the construction side of the cut shelves from points T31 and N22 right lay, respectively, 1.7 cm and 1 cm and put points T3 and N3. 
From the point H4 to the left lay 12 cm (point D5). The bottom shelves hold through the points N4 and N5 and then a smooth line to the point N3. The descent of the shoulder slice down А41А42 = А2А21; П50П5 = П1П11. 
The position of the surface of the pocket is determined by the cut Г4К3 = 3.5 cm
pocket Width К3К4 = 11 cm side pocket К31К32 = К41К42 = 10 cm; К40К43 = 4 cm.
Strap width К3К31 = 2.5 cm; К4К41 = 2 cm Width 2.5 cm polutanata The distance from the top loop to the point of AB - 9,2 cm Distance between loops 9 see



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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