Feature products with Raglan sleeves that line the openings open. It starts from the neck of the back and ends at the mouth of the shelves, as if cutting off the top part of the product. The line openings may be flattened or oval, to fit with the shoulder line above or below, can stand up to overhead - Raglan.
A variation of the sleeve Raglan is proregion, which is based on the Raglan, but differs in that the line of openings at the top moves from neck to shoulder seam at some distance from the highest points of the neck depending on the style or Constitution of the customer.
Products with casual Raglan sleeves are recommended for men of average and tall, small and medium-fullness with normal height of the shoulders.
The product design cut Raglan develop on the basis of product design with set-in sleeves. However, unlike the conventional framework in this design, the width of the openings increase by 1 - 3 cm Depth of the openings also increase due to the increase of PS.PR.
The diversion of the middle line of the back straight in the silhouette is equal to 1 cm Width of the sleeve under the armhole, compared with the conventional casting sleeve is increased by 1 - 3 cm.
Fit Raglan is constructed by several methods: when construction of the sleeve is performed directly in the armhole backrest and shelves; by combining top part of double seam of the sleeve with the armhole backrest and shelves; graphically, by serif, combining the contours of the cutting parts of the back and shelves with crown set-in sleeves.
Below is the basis of the product Raglan sleeve, consisting of two halves - the front and rear. The back half of the sleeve is built on the drawing of the back, front - in the drawing the shelves.
Calculating and plotting the drawing basics of the product are given on the example of demi-season coat of a direct silhouette with Raglan sleeves. Size 50, the completeness of the second.
Allowances for free customized fit, see:
PG = 13 PD.t.p = 2...2,5
Pb = 10...11 PN.throat = 2
PS.PR = 5.p = 14...16
Nd.t.C = 1,5
In the distribution of PG plots the width of the armhole Raglan with respect to the width of the armhole with set-in sleeve should be increased by 2.5 - 3 cm If the width of the armhole products with vtachnoy sleeve 16 cm, Raglan 16 + 2,5 = 18,5 cm Width of the area of the openings is 10.4 cm seam Allowance to the area of the openings is: 18,5 - 10,4 = 8,1 see the Rest of the stock distributed to the width of the backrest and shelves: 13 - 8,1 ≈ 5 cm (the width of the backrest 0.5 x 5 = 2.5 cm; chest width - 2.5 cm) .

Width of the plots in the drawing (Fig. 56):
backless - Г10Г11 = RC + PN.C = 20,4 + 2,5 = 22.9 cm;
armhole - Г11Г2 + Г4Г2 = UPCS.PR + PSVI = 10,4 + 8,1 + 2 = 20.5 cm;
shelves - ГЗГ4 = CG + PN.g = 19,2 + 2,5 = 21,7 see
 note. If the width of the chest and back constructed without any seam, it is given to the width of the openings (2 cm). The seam is given throughout the length of the armhole after you build the foundations, and therefore in determining the level of the chest line allowance increases 1 cm 
AG = VP.s + PS.PR + 1 = 21,5 + 5 + 1 = 27,5 see
Grid drawing basics, line of Rostock and neck build using traditional, as in products with set-in sleeves; side section of the backrest can be transferred into the middle of the armhole.
  Features of construction of the lines of the neck and the armhole backrest and shelves products casual Raglan. The height of the armhole of the backrest Г11П2 = 0,5 DP + 9 = 18 + 9 = 27 cm, Height of the armhole shelves Г4П4 = DP 0,5 + 8,5 = 18 + 8,5 = 26,5 cm
The line of the shoulder cut of the back is transferred up 1 - 1.5 cm From point A2 and P1 restore the perpendiculars to the line А2П1 and lay segments: А2А21 = 1 - 1.5 cm; П1П11 = 1 - 1,5 cm Points A21 and A11, connect the line parallel to А2П1. From point G11 up straight Г11П2 lay cut
Г11ПЗ1 = PS.PR + 1 = 5 + 1 = 6 cm, or Г11П31 = 0,2П2Г11 + 0.6 cm
From the point G11 to the right lay the cut Г11Г2 = 0,5 x 20.5 = 10,2 cm From the point A21 to the left neckline backless postpone the cut А21А22 = 3 see Point A22 and PZ1, and points П31 and G2 connect the auxiliary straight lines.
Direct А22П31 divided in half (point C). From point C raise a perpendicular to a straight А22П31 and lay cut CC1 = 1...1.5 cm Straight П31Г2 divided in half (point C2). On the perpendicular from the point C2 to the straight П31Г2 lay cut С2С3 = 0,1П31Г2 + 0.7 Cm.
Smooth line of the armhole of the backrest is carried out through the points A22, C1, П31, C3 and G2.
To build the openings define the position of a point П61:
Г4П61 = PSPR + 1 = 5 + 1 = 6 cm, or Г4П61 = П2Г4 0,2 + 0,7 cm.
From the point G4 to the left horizontally lay cut
Г4Г2 = PDS 0,5 = 0,5 x 20.5 = 10,2 cm
From the point A41 right neckline lay cut А41А42 = 3 cm A42 Point and П61, and points П61 and G2 connect the auxiliary straight lines.
Direct А42П61 divided in half (point C4). From the point C4 raise a perpendicular to a straight А42П61 and lay cut С4С5 = 1...1.5 cm Straight Пб1Г2 divided in half (point SB). On the perpendicular from a point to a straight SB П61Г2 lay cut С6С7 = 0,1П61Г2 + 1.2 cm
Smooth line of the armhole shelves hold through the points A42, C5, П61, C7 and G2.
The line of the shoulder cut on the back А21П11 is the beginning of the middle line of the sleeve. Transfer the shoulder cut up from the points A2 and A1 requires a corresponding shift of the middle line of the sleeve, which is required for better visual perception of the location of the centerline of the sleeve in the finished product. For normal posture shoulder slice and the middle line of the sleeve is transferred to 1 cm; figures hunched a shoulder cut middle line of a sleeve can not stand; for shapes pereghibati shoulder slice and the middle line of the sleeve is transferred on 1,5 - 2 see

 note.After building the arm openings along its entire length from a point A22 on the neckline of the back to the point A42 on the neckline shelves and areas А22А01 and А42А6 given seam allowance. 

  A preliminary calculation of the design of the Raglan sleeves. To build Raglan sleeves, consisting of two halves, you must first define the width of the sleeve under the armhole in expanded form
Sruk = Op + On.n = 32 + 14 = 46 cm
The width of the front and rear halves of the sleeve will be the same, if the shoulder cut middle line of a sleeve can't stand:
Sruc.z = Sruc.p = 46/2 = 23 cm.
Transfer the shoulder cut and the center line of the sleeve 1 cm width of the rear halves of the sleeves are also increased by 1 cm, i.e., Sruc.W = 23 + 1 = 24 cm Width of the front halves of the sleeve under the armhole in this case decreases by 1 cm, i.e., Sruc.n = 23 - 1 = 22 cm the Width of the rear halves of the sleeve under the armhole on the drawing (Fig. 57, a) with a seam OO1 = 23 + 1 + 2 = 26 cm Width of the front halves of the sleeve under the armhole on the drawing (Fig. 57, b) seam: О2ОЗ = 23 - 1 + 2 = 24 cm
The width of the sleeve at the bottom ready is determined by the formula
SHN.owner = Sruc.under the armhole/2 + 6,5 = 23/2 + 6,5 = 18 see
The Value Of EE.hands depending on the style can change.
Transfer the centerline of the sleeve 1 cm width of the bottom back half is increased by 1 cm, and the front halves is reduced by 1 cm, i.e. the width of the bottom of the rear halves of the drawing with the seam
MM2 = 18 + 1 + 2 = 21 cm;
width of the bottom of the front halves of the drawing with the seam
МЗМ4 = 18 - 1 + 2 = 19 cm