Products with zelenolistnye sleeves from products with vtachnoy sleeves is that they do not have the line of the armhole, and the sleeve is an integral part of the back and shelves. A distinctive feature of the products zelenolistnye sleeves - soft forms. Such a sleeve is used in coats, jackets, raincoats.
Zelenolistnye sleeves can be one-piece, double seam and gusset pouches. As well as the Raglan, in products with clinofibrate sleeves width armhole and sleeve under the armhole, compared with set-in sleeves increases by 1 - 3 cm, Respectively, increasing the total allowance at the chest line and the depth of the armhole (at the expense of increase of PS.PR).
In the men's products are often used zelenolistnye sleeves with belt. The sleeve consists of two halves - the front and rear. Back half sleeves with yoke build on the drawing of the back, front - in the drawing the shelves. Depending on the posture of the shoulder cut on the back is transferred together with the midline of the sleeve. The side seam on the back can move into the middle of the armhole.
Calculation and construction of foundations products with zelenolistnye sleeves is given on the example of the coat of a direct silhouette on the model figure.
Allowances for free customized fit, see:
PG = 13,5 PD.t.p = 2...2,5
Pb = 11 PN.throat = 2
PS.PR = 5.p = 14
PD.t.C = 1,5
In the distribution of the common stock of PG plots the width of the openings increase compared with wide armholes set-in sleeves by 3 cm, i.e., 16 + 3 = 19 cm
If the area of the openings 10,4 cm allowance to the area of the openings is 19 - 10,4 = 8,6 cm
The rest of the seam allowance to the width of the backrest and shelves (13,5 - 8,6 = 5 cm) distributed: to the width of the back - 2.5 cm (if RC = 20,4, width of the back in the drawing 20,4 + 2,5 = 23 cm); the width of the shelf is 2.5 cm (if CG = 19.2 cm, chest width on the drawing 19,2 + 2,5 = 21,7 cm).
The width of the back and shelves in the drawing determine without seam. In this case, PDS = 19 + 2 (joints) = 21 see

§ 2. BUILDING A BACK HALF CLINOFIBRATE SLEEVES WITH YOKE
 

Determine the width of the rear halves of the sleeve under the armhole (Fig. 63, a):
Sruc.z = Sruc. ready + translation of the middle line + Pshow = 23 + 1 + 2 = 26 cm
The width of the bottom of the sleeves in finished form is determined by the formula
SHN.owner = Sruc. under the armhole/2 + 6,5 = 23/2 + 6,5 = 18 see
Width of the bottom back half of a sleeve - 18 + 1 + 2 = 21 cm.
To determine the level of Basque find the position of points П31 and U1:
Г11П31 = PS.PR + 1 = 5 + 1 = 6 cm; Г10У1 = PS.PR + 0,7 = 5.7 cm
Point П31 U1 and connect with a straight line. If Flirty one-piece, then the points A1 and A0 also connect direct.
To determine the direction of the upper center line of the sleeve from point П31 radius equal to the difference between the width of the back half of a sleeve and a half of the width of the openings (26 - 21/2 = 15.5 cm), carry out an arc to the right. From shoulder point P11 is carried tangent to the arc through which lay the sleeve length П11М0 = 64 cm
From the point П31 to spend П11М0 line perpendicular (point P 30). From point P 30 straight П11М0 lay cut П30О = Г11П31.
The level of the elbow determines the length of П11Л = 0.5 Druk + 5 = 0.5 x 64 + 5 = 37 see
The width of the rear halves of the sleeve under the armhole (OO1 = 26 cm) lay on the perpendicular from the point O. the width of the rear half at the elbow (LL1 = OO1 - 1 = 26 - 1 = 25 cm) lay on the perpendicular from the point L. the Point O1 and L1 connect a smooth line. From the point M0 to the right lay the cut М0М = 2.5 cm Width of bottom sleeve (MM1 = 21 cm) delay from the point M. the Length of the elbow tuck aside from the point L1 to the right through the elbow LL1. Л1Л0 = 8 see the Points L1 and L connect the auxiliary line.
The position of a point is determined Л01 cut ЛЛ01 = LL1/2. From point M with the radius of MM1 and from point Л01 radius Л01М conduct arc at their intersection point bet M2. Points M and M2 direct connect. From the point M2 is carried up an arc with a radius of ML and the intersection of the line М2Л1 put point 11. The deflection of the bottom М01М02 = 0.75 cm For the construction of okata rear sleeve halves point П31 O1 and connect direct. In the middle put a point C21:
С21С31 = С2С3 = 0,1П31Г2 + 0,7 cm.
Okata line, which passes through the point П31, C31 and A1 should correspond to the arc of the openings П31, C3, G2. The contours of the yoke sleeve represent a closed curve passing through the points A0, A21 0.7 cm below the point P11, the point P 30, Oh, L, M, M2, 11, L1, O1, C31, П31 and U1.
The allowances are: the neck - line А0А21 to the yoke from the line У1П31 down to the top part of the sleeve - line П31, C31, O1, to the back - line У1П31 up to the armhole - line П31, С3Г2.

§ 3. CONSTRUCTION OF FRONT HALVES CLINOFIBRATE SLEEVES WITH YOKE

Determine the width of the front halves of the sleeve under the armhole (Fig. 63, b), Sruc.p = 23 - 1 + 2 = 24 cm
Width of the bottom of the front halves of the sleeves 18 - 1 + 2 = 19 see the Level of the yoke from the chest line
Г4П61 = PS.PR + 1 = 5 + 1 = 6 cm; Г3Г8 = PS.PR + 1 = 6 see
Solution tuck in the yoke Г8Г81 = 1, see Point Г81 and Пб1 connect a smooth line.
To determine the direction of the upper center line of the sleeve from point П61 radius equal to the difference between the width of the front halves of the sleeve under the armhole and half of the width of the openings (24 - 21/2 = 13.5 cm), hold the left arc. From shoulder point P5 located below the P50 1 cm, hold tangent to the arc through which lay the sleeve length П5М40 = 64 cm From point Пб1 to spend П5М40 line perpendicular (point П60). From the point П60 straight П5М40 lay cut П60О2 = П11О (on the back).
The level of the elbow П5Л20 = 64/2 + 6 = 37 cm Width of the sleeve under the armhole О2О3 = 24 cm From point O3 carried down perpendicular to the line О2О3 and at the intersection with the bottom line put a point M3. The width of the bottom of the sleeves М3М4 = 18 - 1 + 2 = 19 cm
To construct a line of the elbow cut on the elbow from the point of L20 lay cut Л20Л2 = М4М40/3. The line of the shoulder cut smoothly combine with the middle line at the point P5 retreating down to 0.5 cm Deflection on the elbow Л3Л4 = 1.5 - 2 cm Reduction of the front slice on quickdraw М3М30 = 1 - 1.5 cm Deflection of the bottom of the sleeves М31М32 = 0.75 cm
The contours of the yoke sleeve represent a closed curve passing through the points A', 41, 0.5 cm below the point P5, П60, O2, N2, M4, M32, M30, L4, O3, С71, Пб1, Г81, AB. Allowances are given on sites: neckline А6А'41; Basque line Г81П61 (towards the bottom from the line Г81Пб1); lifts the shoulders П61, С71, O3; through the openings Пб1, C7, G2.

Note: For accurate pairing of the lines of the crown and the armholes (if the fabric is "Dry") determine the points O1 and O3 ticks of dots П31 and П61 radii П31Г2 (on the back) and П61О3 (on the shelf). In this case, the width of the sleeves aside from the points O1 and O3.

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 8 

Development designs for men products from clinofibrate sleeve. The manufacture of models. Check them on the figure. Analysis of the results. Work is done according to the plan given in lab 7.

Option 1. Develop design coat with clinofibrate sleeve on a specific figure.

Option 2. Develop design jackets with clinofibrate sleeve on a specific figure.
To make models and test landing on a figure. To analyze landing, to identify errors in design and how to resolve them.

SELF-ASSESSMENT

1. What is the characteristics of the products zelenolistnye sleeves?
2. What is the difference between products with zelenolistnye sleeves products from reglan?
3. How can you determine the slope of the middle line of the sleeve.
4. How can I determine the width of the sleeve under the armhole, the elbow and below?