The vest is a decorative addition to the modern suit. Its shape, lines and proportions closely aligned with the jacket. The design of the vests is carried out mainly according to the calculations adopted for the design of the jackets, with some small deviations. Currently, the vest can have an independent value, and be worn without a jacket. If the vest is a Supplement to the jacket, the back is made from lining fabric. In case of self-value of its back vest is made from top fabric.
Single breasted jackets can be combined with a single-breasted or double-breasted jacket, double breasted - single breasted jacket.
Dimension figure (see Fig. 74) to build the design basis of the jacket, see:
SSH = 20,5 CG = 19,2 CDF.z = 21,4
SG = 50 Dt.p = 55,6 DP = 36,1
St = 44 SHS = 20,4 WB = 24,1
SB = 52 Dt.C = 45,5 VV.W = 23
The height of the neckline of the vest of Explosives.W is determined from the point the base of the neck to the desired level of the tank on the midsagittal line in front.
The height of the tank is unstable and depends on the style and design of the costume as a whole.
Constructive allowances, see:
PG = 2,5...3,0 PD.t.s = 1
PT = 2,5...3,5 PD.t.n = 0,5...0,7
PS.PR = 4,5 PH.throats = 1,3
The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the width of the back of 20.4 - 2 = 18,4; width openings - 50 - (18,4 + 17,2) = 14,4; the width of the shelf - 19,2 - 2 = is 17.2.
Allowance on the chest PG = 2.5 cm relates to the armhole.
Width of the vest sections in the drawing:
backless = 18,4 + 1 = 19,4 cm;
armhole = 14,4 + 2,5 = 16,9 cm;
shelves = 17,2 + 1 = 18,2 cm

For building vest building a straight angle with the vertex at point A (Fig. 83, a).
The level of the waist line is measured by the length
At = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 1 = 46,5 cm
The level of the chest the first method is determined by the formula
AG = the CDF.s + 4.5 V = 21,4 + 4,5 = 25,9 cm
The chest level with the second method, is determined by the formula
TG = WB - 3,5 = 24,1 - 3,5 = 20,6 cm
The level of convexity of the blades determines the length of
AU = 0,HWP.C = 0,Z x 45.5 = 13,7 cm
The length of the vest determines the length of
An = at + (8...10) = 46,5 + 10 = 56,5 see (TN = 8...10 cm).
Up from point And vertical and right horizontal delay of 0.5 - 0.7 cm (points A0 and A01).
The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line ТТ1 = 3, see Allocating the midline of the back at the hem НН1 = 2.5 cm Retraction of the middle line of the back at the level of convexity of the blades UU'1 = 0.3 cm. From the point T1 down the line Т1Н1 lay 5 cm (point N11). From the point H1 to the right horizontally lay 2 cm (point H12). Point H11 and H12 connect with a straight line. The middle line of the back is carried out through the points A01, Y'1, T1, H11 and H12; it intersects with the line of the chest at point G10.From the point G10 to the right lay the width of the back Г10Г11 = 19,4 cm, then lay the width of the openings Г11Г4 = 17 cm and width of shelves Г3Г4 = 18.2 cm (in accordance with a preliminary calculation).
Through the point G3 hold vertical (line polutanata), which intersects with the horizontal from point A to point A1 with the horizontal from point T at the point T8; with the horizontal from point N to point H4. From H4 point down the line а1Н4 lay 5.5 cm (point D5). Point And right horizontal delay period equal to Г10Г11 the segment (point a); from point A1 to the left lay a segment equal to segment Г3Г4 (point A2). Point and G11 and G4 and A2 connect lines.
Width of the neck backless
А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.throats = 20,5/(3 + 1,3) = 8,1 see
The height of the neck backless
A1A2 = А01А1 : 3 + Pshow = 8,1/3 = 3.7 cm.
The height of the armhole of the backrest
Г11П2 = 0,5 DP + PS.PR + 0,5 PD.t.+ 1 (to move the shoulder seam) = 0.5 x 36 + 4,5 + 0,5 + 1 = 24 cm
The deflection of the shoulder line А2А20 = 1 cm draw a line of the shoulder cut of the back point of the A20 and A2 connect the auxiliary line. From a point P2 on the line П2А20 to the left lay the cut П2П1 = 1.5 cm From point A2 conduct a smooth concave line tangent to the straight А20П1. From the point G11 to the right lay the cut Г11Г5 = 0,5Г11Г4 a + 3.5 = 0.5 x 17 + a 3.5 = 12 cm
Auxiliary point 1 is on the bisector of the angle П2Г11Г4,G111 = 0,25Г11Г4 - 0,7 = 0.25 x 17 - 0,7 = 3,5 cm
Point P3 is located at the intersection of the horizontal line from the point and direct Г11а. From the point P3 to the left horizontally lay the cut П3П31 = 2.5 cm armhole Line of the back is carried out through the points P1, П31, 1, and G5.
Side cut backless built on the vertical from point G5, which intersects with the waist line at point T3, and the bottom line at the point N21. Up from point lay H21 0.5 cm (point D2). To the left of the point T3 postpone 1 cm (point T2). The points H12 and H2 connect direct. The line of the side cut backless conducted through G5, T2 and H2.
In the surrounding articles, including the jacket, waist design tucks. The amount of solutions tucks at the waist is determined by the formula
Σв = (SG + PG) - (St + PT) = (50 + 2,5) - (44 + 2,5) = 6 see
From the amount of Darts Σв subtract the difference of the lengths ТТ1 and ГГ10. Cut ГГ10 = 1 cm; ТТ1 - ГГ10 = 3 - 1 = 2 cm.
Σв - 2 = 6 - 2 = 4 cm is the sum of the solutions of the three Darts.
Solution Darts at the back equal to 0.3 x 4 = 1.2 cm; solution side tuck is 0.5 x 4 = 2 cm; front tuck solution = 0.2 x 4 = 0.8 cm
Darts at the back of the building on the vertical from point G11 to the bottom line. The upper end of the tuck is located below the point G11 5.5 - 7.5 cm.
To determine the point A4 the segment A1A2 is divided in half, i.e. а1А4 = A1A2/2. Through the point A4 of the vertical hold down to the intersection with the waist line (point T4). From the point T4 up vertically postpone the cut, which determines the position of the highest point of the neck A41.
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 2 = 45 + 2 = 47 see
To build the shoulder seam of the shelf from point A2 vertically down lay cut а2П4 = аП2 + 1, see Point A41 and A4 connect the auxiliary straight and continue to the right lay the cut А41А42 = 1 cm.
The length of the shoulder cut А42П50 = А2П1 - 0.5 cm.
Bevel line of the shoulder cut П50П5 = 0,7...1 see
Line the bevel begins at a distance of 4.5 cm from point P50. Point P6 is located at the intersection of the horizontal line from the point with vertical а2Г4. Cut П6П61 = 2, see Auxiliary point 2 is on the bisector of the angle П6Г4Г5, G42 = G111 - 1 see
The line of the armhole shelves is performed through the point P6, П61, 2 and G5.
The deflection of the side cut shelves on the waist line Т3Т31 = 1 cm From a point up the N21 lay 1 cm (point N3). A lateral cut is performed through the dots G5, T31 and N3.
Classic jacket provides pockets with leaves. The front edge of the leaf as the top, and the side pockets must be on the same vertical. To determine the slope of the leaf from the points T3 and T8, respectively, are set aside for line polutanata down 2.5 cm, ie Г3ГЗ0 = 2.5 cm; Т8Т80 = 2.5 cm.
Point Г30 and G4 and point T80 and T7 connect the auxiliary straight.
To build the rear end of the upper leaves from a point G4 on the line Г4Г30 to the right lay the cut Г4К40 = 2.5 cm Length of the leaves determines the length of К40К30. The length of the upper leaves are uniform in dimensions, cm: 44 - 48 size - 8; for 50 - 54 size - 9 to 9.5; for 56 - 64 sizes of 9.5 - 10.
Through the point K30 conduct vertical down to the intersection with the line Т80Т7 in point K10. The width of the upper leaves of single cut КЗ0К3 = 1.5 cm Line primaqiune leaves determines the length of К3К4 = К30К40 (built parallel to the line К30К40).
To build lateral leaflets from the point K10 at line Т80Т7 to the left lay the length of the lateral leaflets К10К20 = К3К4 + Z see the width of the lateral leaflets determines the length of К10К1 = К30К3 + 0.5 cm К1К2 Line is constructed parallel to the line К10К20, while К1К2 = К10К20.
To build a front tuck determine the position of a point T71, through which passes the line mid-front tuck Т4Т71 = 3 cm From a point T71 left and right lay half of the solution front tuck. The upper end of the tuck does not reach the chest on 7 see
A classic vest could be designed-tab-satanic that stachivaya the front end to tuck on the back.