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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§1. Design jackets semi-fitted silhouette


Jacket straight, single-breasted, two-button placket (Fig. 14). Turn-down collar. Shelves with one top and two side pockets. The back ends with a slit at the seam. Vtachnoy sleeve double seam. The shoulder line is sloping, clear-cut, the lapels are medium width. Size 176 - 100 - 88 the fullness of the second, fabric suiting.
Dimensions (measurements) for the preliminary calculation of the design, see:

SSH = 20,5 Dt.p = 55.6 Dr = 64
SG = 50 Loop = 20,4 Op = 32
St = 44 Dt.C = 45,5 CDF.z = 21,4
SB = 52, Di = 76 DP = 36
SHG = 19,2 SHP = 15,5

Allowances for free customized fit, see:

PG = 8,5 PD.t.s = 1
PT = 8 PD.t.n = 1,4
Pb = 4,5 PH.throats.C = 1,5
SHS.PR = 3.p = 9,5...10

The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the width of the back of 20.4; the width of the area of the openings is 10.4; the width of the chest is 19.2.
The width of the sleeve under the armhole
SROC = (Op.p)/2 = (32+10)/2 = 21 see
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in sections, cm: the width of the back - of 2.34; the areas of the openings was 4.6; the width of the chest - of 1.56.
Thus, the width of the plots in the drawing, taking into account allowances for seams, see: back width 20,4 + 2,34 + 1 = from 23.74; width openings 10,4 + 4,6 + 1,5 = 16,5; width chest 19,2 + 1,56 + 1 = of 21.76.
Calculation of posture OS = Dt.p - Dt.with.
Dt.p = Dt.n - (0,4 SSH +2,4) = 55,6 - (0.4 x 20,5 +2,4) = 55,6 - 10,6 = 45 cm;
OS = 45 - 45.5 cm (OS±0.5 cm is not taken into account).

  Construction drawing of the back of the jacket semi-fitted silhouette. From the top right angle from the point A (see Fig. 14, a) down vertical delay line segments that define:
the level of the waist line at = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 1 = 46.5 cm;
the blades and the beginning of the bevel of the middle line of the back of AU = 0,Z x Dt.C = 0,Z x 45.5 = 13,6 cm;
length jacket EN = Di + DD.t.with a = 76 + 1 = 77 cm;
raising the base of the sprout АА0 = 0,5...0,7 cm;
the splaying of the base of the sprout to the right А0А01 = 0,5...0,7 cm; the deflection of the middle line of the back semi-fitted jacket at the level of the waist line ТТ1 = 2.5 cm; retraction of the middle line of the back at the level of convexity of the blades UU'1 = 0.3 cm.
The middle line of the back is carried out through the points A01, Y'1, T1, B1 and H1.
At the intersection with the horizontal line drawn from the point G, put a dot G10.
Back width in the drawing
Г10Г11 = AA = 23.4 cm (from prior calculation).
Т1Т2 = Г10Г11 - 4,5 = 23,4 - 4,5 = 18,9 = 19 see
Back width at the level of the hip line
Б1Б2 = Т1Т2 + 0,5 = 19 + 0,5 = 19,5 cm
Width of the neck backless (Rostock)
А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.throats.C = 20,5/3 + 1,5 = 8,2 cm
The height of the neck backless
A1A2 = А01А1/3 + PN = 8,2/3 + 1 = 3.7 cm.
The position of the point P2 to construct a line of the shoulder cut of the back is determined by the cut Г11П2 = DP 0,5 + 5,2 = 0.5 x 36 + 5,2 = 23,2 cm Down the neck (root) from point A2 lay 1 cm (point A20).
Through the points A20 and A2 is carried out straight where you point the A20 lay length shoulder seam General allowance А20П1 = SHP + 2...2,5 = 15,5 + 2,5 = 18 see
To determine the position of the reference point of the armhole of the back L3 of the point hold to the right horizontal to the intersection with the line Г11П2. Auxiliary point 1 on the bisector of the angle with vertex at the point defined by the segment G11 G111 = 0,25 PDS = 0.25 x 15 = 3.7 cm, and the position of the point G2 in the lower part of the armhole - cut Г11Г2 = 0,5 PDS = 0.5 x 15 = 7.5 cm armhole Line of the back is carried out through the points P1, P3, 1 and G2.
To build a side cut backless define the position of a point G5 on the chest (Г11Г5 = 0.5 cm). A lateral cut is performed through the dots G5, T2, B2. At the intersection with the bottom line put a point of H2. The deflection line Г5Т2 from the middle is 0.3 - 0.5 cm.
The length of the slots Н1Ш = 0,SSEN = 0,ZZ x 77 = 25.4 cm; width - Н1Ш1 = 4...5, see

  Construction drawing shelves jacket semi-fitted silhouette. From the top right angle from point A1 (see Fig. 14, b) down the vertical delay line segments that define the level of the chest а1Г3 = AG (on the back); the level of the waist line а1Т8 = at; the level of the hip line Т8Б8 = TB (on the back); the bottom line is а1Н4 = EN (on the back).
Width of shelves (breast)
Г3Г44 = A1A2 = of 21.76 cm (from prior calculation).
The highest point of the chest the chest is measured by the length
Г3Г6 = 0,5ГЗГ4 + 1 = 0.5 x of 21.76 + 1 = 11,88 = 12 cm.
The width of the armhole shelves with the diversion barrel - cut Г4Г5. To the left from point lay G4 3.5 cm (a constant number) and put a point Г41.
The amount of discharge of the barrel on the chest depends on the freedom of the shelves fit in the waist after processing shelves. Freedom of the fit in the waist depends on the size of the sum of the solutions of the anterior and lateral recesses. If freedom of the fit in the waist area is not required, the amount of discharge of the barrel must equal the sum of the solutions of the front and side Darts at the waist line.
In the above construction, the magnitude of the discharge barrel is equal to the solution front tuck plus lateral deflection of the tuck, i.e. Г41Г42 = 2 + 0,5 = 2,5 cm
Width of barrel at the chest line Г42Г5 = 0,25 SG = 0.25 x 50 = 12.5 cm
If the width of the openings increase, for example on the value of x, in this case, the width of the barrel Г42Г5 = 0,25 SG + x.
Width of shelves on the level of the hip line
Б8БЗ = SB + 10 - Б1Б2 = 52 + 10 - 19,5 = 42,5 cm
Point G5 and B3 connect the auxiliary line, which intersects with the waist line (point T3).
The deflection lines of the side of the barrel cut at the waist Т3Т31 = 1.5 cm the line of the side cut is performed through the point ТЗ1 and G5, extending the line up. The highest point of the lateral cut point G51.
Through the points T31 and B3 draw to the intersection with the horizontal line drawn from the point N4 (point N3).
The deflection line Г5Т31 in the middle of the 0.5 cm Decrease in line polutanata Н4Н5 = 2...2.5 cm.
The position of the highest point of the chest is determined by the cut Г6Г7 = PS.Ave = 2.5...3 cm, construct the angle suteki from the point of G7 is carried out to the right perpendicular to the line of prosanos (point G8). Point upward from the G8 lay cut Г8Г81 = 0,05Г3Г4 = 0.05 x of 21.76 = 1.1 cm From point Г81 raise a perpendicular to a straight Г7Г81 and on crossing it with a horizontal line drawn from the point A1, put the point A3.
Mouth width shelves
А3А4 = А01А1 + 1 = 8,2 + 1 = 9,2 cm
The position of the highest point of the neck shelves A41 is determined by the cut
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 3,4 = 45 + 3,4 = 48,4 cm
The depth of the neck А41А5 = 0,4 SSH. To draw the neckline from the point A5 lay cut А5А60 = 0,25А41А5 + 0.5 cm.
To determine the position of the point A6 from the point A3 delay period
А3А6 = А4А5 + 2 cm,
where 2 cm is the deepening of the neck in accordance with the requirements of fashion. 
The height of the armhole shelves Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 4,2 = 0.5 x 36 + 4,2 = 22,2 cm
The length of the shoulder cut А41П50 = SHP + Pshow = 15,5 + 1 = 16,5 cm
Position of auxiliary points, openings L6, 2, 3, 4 defined segments
Г4П6 = 0,25Г4П4 + 0,5 = 0,25 x 22.2 + 0,5 = 6 cm;
    G42 = PDS 0,25 - 1,5 = 3,7 - 1,5 = 2.2 cm;
    N53 = 0,5П5П6; 3 - 4 = 1 see
The bevel of the shoulder cut П50П5 = 0.5 cm.
The control point connection of the sleeve with the armhole P7 determines the length of П6П7 = Г4П6/3 = 6/3 = 2 cm.
The side pocket is defined by segments
Т7К = 0,25 Dt.C - 3,5 = 0,25 x 45.5 - 3,5 = 8 cm;
KK1 = 0,5К1К2 + 1,5 = 0,5 x 15,5 + 1,5 = 9,2 cm
Location of the top of the pocket with leaflets (see Fig. 10,a) defined by line segments
Г4К3 = 0,25Г3Г4 - 1 = 0.25 x of 21.76 - 1 = 4.4 cm;
К3К31 = 1.5 cm; К31К4 = 0,2 SG + 0,5...1 = 10.5 cm.
The position of front Darts is determined by the segments: К1К10 = 2 cm; К11К12 = 2 cm.
To build a detachable barrel determines the position of the side tuck Г4Г41 = 3.5 cm; КК5 = 3.5 cm Through the points Г41 and K5 hold vertical at its intersection with the waist line put a point T5, hips - B4, with the bottom line - Н31.
The splaying of the barrel on the chest Г41Г42 = 2.5 cm Point Г42 K5 and connect with a straight line. The deflection line Г41К5 waist Т5Т6 right = 0.5 cm.
Line the right side of the side tuck is performed through a point Г41, T6, K5 with a deflection line Г41Т6 in the middle of 0,3 cm a Line inside of the cut barrel (left side tuck) is carried out through Г42, K5, Н31.
The position of the tuck in the side pocket defined segments:
К5К6 = 1 cm; К6К61 = К11К12 = 2 cm.
Through the point К61 hold vertical at its intersection with the line of the pocket dot K51, hips - B7 point and underline a point N32.
Н32Н33 = К51К61.

  Build the sides and lapel single breasted jacket with two-button placket.In such suits (see Fig. 14, b) the position of the bottom hinge outline at the level of the front end of the side pocket (with an ordinary slope), upper - lower waist line 1 cm the position of the upper loop depends on the length of the lapel, which varies depending on fashion trends. The average distance between loops 8 - 12 see
To determine the position of the line of the side parallel to the line of prosanos draw, the upper end of which is positioned in the upper loop and the lower end at the lower hinge. The distance between the line polutanata and Board edge single breasted jacket 3 - 4cm (cut).
To build the lapel determine the line of its bend. On edge of a Board at the top of the loop, put the point L. From point A41 to the right on the continuation of the line А41П50 lay cut
А41з = Stoiki - 0,5 = 2,5 - 0,5 = 2 cm.
Through the points L and z hold a line that intersects with the line of the neck at point F. Line LF determines the position of the bend of the lapel. On a straight line perpendicular to the fold line of the lapel, lay the width of the lapel. At the intersection continue this line and the line ФА6 put a point L2. The width of the lapel is determined in accordance with a model or a fashion direction. The width of the ledge lapel single-breasted jacket Л2А61 = 4,5...5 see the Points L and L2 connect direct. Line the outer edge of the lapel is carried out by deflection from the middle of the straight ЛЛ2 = 0,5...0,7, see the Amount of deflection depends on the direction of fashion.
To build the edge of the Board define the portion Н5Н54 on the bisector of the angle with vertex at point H5(Н5Н54 = 3 cm). The rim of the bottom hinge (point L1) is carried out through the point Н54, crossing the line bottom Н33Н5 at the point Н51 and forth parallel to the bottom at a distance of 1 cm (point Н53). The distance between the points Н51 and Н53 1 direct - 3 see point Н53 spend vertical. At the intersection with the bottom line Н33Н5 dot Н55, which lay down the amount of bending of the bottom shelves. The design of the edge of the Board depends on the requirements of fashion and style.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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