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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§1. Dimensional signs, their symbols and methods of measurement

Chapter II

§1. DIMENSIONAL SIGNS, THEIR SYMBOLS AND METHODS of MEASUREMENT 

  Leading size signs. The size typology of the male population in our country sets the OST 17-325 - 86 "sewing, knitted, fur. Typical figures of men. Dimensional characteristics for designing clothes". As a leading indication for the dimension of the typology of the male population are taken: height, chest girth third and waist circumference. The waist dimension is an important basis for determining completeness.

  Classification of standard figures. Industry standard sets for clothing 172 model figures, which are grouped into five groups Polnochnyj: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Polnochnye group is subdivided into subgroups according to the girth of the chest (table. 1).
For the identification of groups of standard shapes indicated dominant age groups: Junior - 18 - 29 years, average 30 - 44 years, older than 45 years.
To establish the model of figures of men interval on the growth of ±3 cm; chest girth ±2 cm; waist girth ±3 cm; interdimensional variability of waist circumference ±2 cm.

  The main anthropometric points of the human body (Fig. 1):
a - top the highest point of the crown at the position of the head in eye-ear horizontal;
b - the neck - the top of the spinous process of the seventh cervical vertebra;
in the point base of the neck is the point on the intersection line of the circumference of the neck with the vertical plane bisecting the shoulder slope in half.
g - clavicular - the highest point of the sternal end of the clavicle;
d - vernerova point in the center of the jugular depression;
e - srednegodnaia point on the middle line of the sternum at the junction of the upper edge of the cartilage of the fourth rib with the sternum;
W - acromion shoulder is the most protruding in the direction of point to the lateral edge of the acromial process of the scapula;
s - shoulder to point at the intersection of the upper outer edge of the acromial process of the scapula in the vertical plane bisecting the shoulder joint area in half;
and ray is the top point of the head of the radial bone;
K - liner is the center of the nipple;
l - spinous-iliac anterior - most protruding point of the front upper iliac spine;
m - knee - center of the kneecap;
n - front corner of the armpit - the highest point of the arc formed by the front edge of the armpit when the arm is lowered; the point is hidden a small skin fold, which is to determine the exact top of the arc needs to be spread;
o - rear angle of the armpit - the highest point of the arc formed by the rear edge of the armpit when the arm is lowered; the point is hidden a small skin fold that needs to be spread to determine the exact top of the arc;
p - gluteal most protruding point of the buttocks;
R - point height of the waist line to point to the most concave part of the side surface of the body, midway between the lower rib and the iliac crest;


Fig. 2. The dimensional characteristics of the model figures of men

  Dimensional signs (Fig. 2). Measurement of the figure of arbitrarily designate the following capital letters: - height; l - length, distance; circumference; P - growth; S - poluobhvat; C - distance between centers; W - width; d - diameter; N - the position of the body; D - depth. Lowercase letters in uppercase indicate measurements.
1 - growth - apical height of a point P; measured vertically from the floor to the apical point;
3 - height clavicular point VK.t; measured vertically from the floor to the clavicular point.
4 - point height of the base of the neck W.about.W; measured vertically from the floor to the point the base of the neck;
5 - the height of the shoulder point of the EP.t; measured vertically from the floor to the shoulder point;
7 - the height of the waist line VL.t; measured vertically from the floor to the waist line;
9 - the height of the knee point VK; measure the vertical distance from the floor to the knee point;
10 - height of neck point VSH.t; measure the vertical distance from the floor to the neck point;
11 - the height of the rear angle of the armpit of the Ot.; measure the vertical distance from the floor to the rear angle of the armpit;
12 - the height of the desired length pleats VP.C; measured in vertical distance from the floor to mid-buttock cheek meets the thigh folds;
13 - neck of Osh; the lower edge of the tape applied directly over the cervical point, side and front of the tape must lie at the base of the neck, touching the lower edge of the clavicular points and closed above the jugular notch;
14 - bust first Og; the tape is applied to the blades; on the back the tape should be held horizontally, touching the upper edge of the rear corners of the armpits, and the front tape should be held level srednesrochnoi point to focus on the right side of the chest; on the upper edge of the ribbon, make labels, and the front - liners over point back on the spine and shoulder blades;
15 - bust the second AG; the tape is applied to the blades; on the back the tape should be held horizontally, touching the upper edge of the rear corners of the armpits and axillary valleys in the plane of the oblique section; front tape needs to pass through the liner and snap on the right side of the chest.
The girth of chest the first and the second should be measured one after the other, not allowing shift of the tape measure on the back;
16 - chest girth third Og; the tape should pass horizontally around the body, a liner using the point to focus only on the right side of the chest;
18 - waist From; the tape should pass horizontally around the torso at the level of the waist line;
19 - hip, taking account of the protrusion of the abdomen About; the tape is applied on the buttock point, it should be carried horizontally around the torso, the front of the flexible plate is applied vertically to the stomach to account for the protrusion of the abdomen, and to focus on the right side of the torso;
20 - the hip without taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen Ob; the tape is applied to the buttock points, the tape should pass horizontally around the body and closed on its right side;
21 - girth of hips Lunch; the tape should pass horizontally around the hips, touching the upper edge of the desired length of folds, and confined to the outer surface of the thigh;
22 - the girth of the knee is OK; the tape should pass horizontally around the leg at the level of the knee point and to be bonded to the outer surface of the legs;
23 - calf circumference OI; measure the maximum circumference of the foot in the region of the gastrocnemius muscle; the tape should pass horizontally around the legs and snap to outer surface of the leg;
24 - girth of ankle.; the tape should pass horizontally around the leg just above the inside ankle and confined to the outer surface of the leg;
25 - distance from waist line to floor at the side of DSB; measure from point of the height of the waist line on the side of the thigh through the most exposed area of the hip and then vertically to the floor;
26 - distance from waist to floor front Chipboard; measure from the waist through the most protruding point of the abdomen and then vertically to the floor;
27 - length of inside leg Days; measured from the inside of the leg from the crotch to the floor with slightly spread apart legs;
28 - Op girth shoulder; measured perpendicular to the axis of the shoulder; the upper edge of the tape should touch the rear angle of the armpit;
29 - the circumference of the wrist, ASAP; measured perpendicular to the axis of the forearm at the wrist through the ulna head; the tape should be on the outer side of the hand;
30 - the circumference of the brush Oxide; measured perpendicular to the axis of the brush through the metacarpophalangeal joint of the first finger. The first finger should be contrasted with the second and allotted him 30 - 35º; tape should be on the outer side of the hand;
31 - the width of the shoulder of the slope (shoulder width) SHP; measure from base of the neck in the middle of the shoulder slope to shoulder point.
34 - the height of the front openings of the CDF.p (distance from neck point to bust front first); measured from the neck point using the access point base of the neck to the marks on the band groli first front;
35 - breast height VG; measured from the neck point using the access point base of the neck to the nipple point.
36 - waist length at the front of Dt.p; measured from the neck point using the access point base of the neck, a liner point and then parallel to the midsagittal line to the waist line (signs 34-3b should be measured directly one after the other);
37 - the height of the openings oblique to the CDF.K (distance from the cervical point to the rear corner of the armpit in the front); measuring tape are laid on the neck of the point through the point base of the neck further toward the front corner of the armpit; the end point of measurement is located below the front angle of the armpit at the rear corner; rear corner of the armpit needs to be fixed a plate with a width of 2 cm, which top edge touches rear corner and goes horizontally at the armpit;
38 - the length of the arc through the highest point of the shoulder joint DP; measure from the rear corner of the armpit through the highest point of the shoulder joint to the level of the rear angle of the armpit front;
39 - the height of the openings behind the CDF.z (distance from the cervical point to the line of the chest girths of the first and second subject guide vanes); measured from the neck point to the upper edge of the flexible plate; the plate should touch the top edge of the label, fixing on the blades the line of the chest girths of the first and second;
40 - back length to waist with consideration of protrusion of the blades Dt.C; measure from waist line to neck point along the spine through a thin plate with a width of 2 cm superimposed on the protruding points of the shoulder blades;
41 - the height of the shoulder slash EP.K; measured by the shortest distance from the intersection of the waist line with the spine to the shoulder point (the signs 40 and 41 should be measured one after the other);
43 - the distance from the waist line back to the point the base of the neck Dt.CI; tape should be held back from the waist line to the point of the base of the neck parallel to the spine;
45 - chest width SHG; measured between the front angles of armpits; the tape should lie horizontally immediately above the line of the bust first;
46 - distance between points Sosnovyi TT; measure between Sosnovyi points; tape must lie flat;
47 - shoulder width SHS; measure the blades between the rear corners of the armpits directly over the line of the chest girths of the first and second; the tape must lie flat;
48 - the circumference of your head, the As; measured through the most protruding point of the occiput and the centers of the frontal mounds; tape should be front;
49 - distance from waist line to the plane of the seat DS; measured on the side from the waist line to the horizontal plane of the seat; measured needs to sit on a chair with a hard seat;
50 - circumference of the knee in a bent position the legs are OK.(angle 90'); the tape must pass through the popliteal fossa through the knee point and to withdraw from the front;
51 - the girth of the instep of the foot skeleton; measure across the back, the most protruding downward point of the heel and the highest point of the instep of the foot; the tape should be front;
53 - shoulder diameter Øпл; measured between the front shoulder points;
54 the transverse diameter of the neck Øш; measured between points of the base of the neck;
57 - anteroposterior diameter of the hand Øпз.R; measured horizontally at the rear corner of the armpit;
60 - the height of the shoulder slash in front of VP.to.p; measure the shortest distance from the shoulder point to the intersection of the waist line with the midsagittal line of the front;
61 - a distance from the base of the neck to the waist line Dt.p; measure the distance from the point to the base of the neck, a liner using the point to the waist line;
62 - length of hand to elbow Etc.Locke; measure from your shoulder point to ray point.
68 - arm length to the line of circumference of the wrist, Etc.Zap; measure from your shoulder point to the wrist circumference;
69 - the vertical diameter of the arm Øвер; defined as the difference between dimensional and dimensional symptom 11 symptom 5;
The 70 distance from the cervical point to the knee DSH.K; is the difference between dimensional and dimensional symptom 9 symptom 10;
71 - distance from the waist line to the knee of Dt.K; is the difference between the 9 dimensional signs and dimensional sign 26;
72 - the height of the shoulder of the EAP; it is the difference between dimensional and dimensional symptom 5 sign 10;
73 - the height of the head Ugol; it is the difference between dimensional and dimensional symptom 10 symptom 1;
74 the position of the PC case; measured horizontally from the cervical point to the vertical plane (the plane need to touch the most protruding points back of both shoulder blades);
75 - the length of the shoulder belt behind the DP.W; measured horizontally along the back between the shoulder points;
76 - the distance from the neck to the base of the neck laterally through the measurement of the circumference of the neck of DSH.about.W; is the difference between dimensional and dimensional sign 61 sign 36;
78 the depth of the first GT waist; measured horizontally from a vertical plane tangent to protruding points of shoulder blades, up to a rule applied horizontally to the longitudinal back muscles at the level of the waist line;
79 - the depth of the second waist GT; measured horizontally from a vertical plane tangent to the buttock points to the line applied horizontally to the longitudinal back muscles at the level of the waist line.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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