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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§1. Making patterns of detail at the top

The process of making patterns is the final stage of model development. 
According to the revised drawings the technical reproduction of cardboard cut a set of patterns. The thickness of cardboard with a smooth surface 0,9 - of 1.62 mm; the moisture content of the paperboard should not exceed 8 % at normal relative humidity 60 - 65 %. Cardboard with high moisture contentshrinking and patterns made from it become worthless.
In terms of production working drawings produce two kinds basic patterns: patterns-patterns and working patterns. Working patterns cutting products, and patterns-the standards are the same workers the patterns used for their verification. Patterns-standards stored in the experimental shop and check on the working drawing or report card measures less than once a quarter. To extend the life of the working patterns of their the slices around thin metal strip or impregnated with special solutions. On patterns you can stick sandpaperwhich not only lengthens, but also increases the adhesion of the patterns with fabric that enhances the quality of cut. Not to use worn patterns, for all their footprints lay a thin colored line orput control stamps. All sections of the curves mark the places control characters (radseck) with the help of Pasechnikov. The width of nasechek 0,2 - 0.3 cm, length of 0.5 - 0.7 see
  Marking patterns. For pattern each detail is applied to the following labelling data: name of the product; the name (number) of the model; departmerit; name the details of her assignment (top, padding); cipher (when using standardized parts); area of part, cm2; number of parts cut; the name of the designer.
On one of the items (usually on the shelf) be the specification of all the patterns and details of the appointment (top, lining, butt). In addition, ya patterns of the lower collar, and podborta other details put lines of permissible extensions (seams) in accordance with the requirements of the industry standard for this type of clothing.
On the working patterns of basic clothing items appropriate to specify tolerances of cut. For areas with high accuracy (slices neck, shoulder, armhole) allowable deviation amount +-0,1 cm core sections (lateral, bottom, etc.) permitted deviations were +-0,25 cm, for minor (parts and gaskets) +-0,4 see 
On patterns is applied to line par of the directions and permissible deviations of the warp threads or the weft in accordance with specifications for cutting these parts. In the basic patterns take into account allowances for seams and the hem.
Derived parts in the the clothes are those that are based on the main. To them include details of the key fabrics: podbot, upper collar, valves, piping, valances pockets; lining details: shelves, back, sleeve, front half of the pants; parts gaskets: side, bottom the collar, bottom of sleeves, dolevikov pockets, shoulder pads; parts burlap pockets. For cutting the derived parts are made patterns. 
  Auxiliary call patterns used in the process of making articles for applying lines of stitching, felling, location of pockets, trimming lines, etc. 
drawings of the patterns derived parts are developing on the basis of working drawings or templates-standards of main parts. 
For centralized cutting applied materials applied special patterns. The feature of these patterns is that they are not built on the basis of drawing a specific product, and with the modern styles, silhouettes and shapes of clothing. These patterns elaborate on the details of the lining to jacket (jacket), pants, insulated pads for winter product. Their develop into four size group: 44 - 46; 48 - 50; 52 - 54; 56 - 58.
In the manufacture of products for individual orders apply the patterns are basic designs and templates for cutting semi-finished products. Patterns basic structures develop on all the leading fashionable silhouettes of the items. These patterns are made without seam and reserves that give at cutting directly on fabric. 
Allowances on inventory, under when cutting, give the possibility of introducing appropriate adjustment to suit the shape of the customer.
Main patterns top for semi-finished products are made with the seam. In semi-finished products according to some sections also give allowances to the reserve for fit products to fit customer. Semi-finished products outerwear produce certain size, fullness and height on the standard figure a certain degree of readiness: fully machined sides, Welt pockets, loops, contoured lines, the slots of the back, Stacey shoulder sections,TACAN lower collar into the neckline, tacked on cuff, side of sour cream slices umetani sleeves, swept hem and bottom of sleeves, tacked onlining, winter products attached insulated gasket.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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