Chapter III CONSTRUCTION DRAWING BASICS SHOULDER PRODUCTS

§ 1. The BASE MESH AND the CALCULATION BASIS of the JACKET 

Base mesh - a set of auxiliary vertical and horizontal lines, defining the overall dimensions of the chest and the size of its main parts (back, shelves, openings).
 

The basic grid is a 1/2 scan the lateral surface of the product relative to the lines an and Aa1 (Fig. 4).

Horizontal grid lines are:

line Aa1, corresponding to the position of the spinous process of the seventh cervical vertebra (cervical points), the line of the base of the neck;
line Ggz, corresponding to the position of the depth of the openings, the line of the breast;
line TT8 corresponding to the level of the most narrow places of the body, the waistline;
line ББ8 corresponding to the greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles, the line of the buttocks;
line НН4 corresponding to the bottom of the garment - the bottom line.

Vertical grid lines are:

line AB corresponding to the position of the spine, the middle line of the back;
line а1Н4 corresponding to the position of the sagittal line shape of the torso of front - line palukanos;
line AG1 corresponding to the position of the rear angle of the armpit, the back border of the arm openings;
line а2Г4 corresponding to the position of the front angle of the armpit, the front border of the openings.

The width of the back define the segments AA and ГГ1, armhole - Aa2 and Г1Г4, shelves - A1A2 and ГЗГ4. The width of the entire product under the armhole determine the segments Aa1 and GGZ.

All of the width of the above plots are defined according to the preliminary calculation.

The levels of horizontal lines is determined by the dimensions of the figure subject to appropriate allowances.

  The calculation basis of the jacket. The design drawings shall take into account the allowances to all seams except for the seam allowance on the middle seam of the back, neck and backless shelves, and hem bottom.

The procedure for calculating design basis jacket semi-fitted silhouette. Size 176 - 100 - 88 (height - chest - waist); fabric suiting.

  The measurements for the preliminary calculation of the structure: SSH, SG, St, SB, CG, Dt.p of the detection Circuit Dt.with, Dee, SHP, Etc., Op the CDF.W (or WB), DP.

  Allowances for free customized fit: PG, PT, Pb, PS.PR, PD.t.with PD.t.n, PN.throats.with At.p.

Allowance for loose fit on the parts of the frame, required to build the drawing, see § 4 of this Chapter. 

  Distribution measurements in SG plots: the width of the back Zone to the area of the openings of the UPR and the width of the shelves SHG, i.e.

SG = SS + UPR + CG, where UPR = CR - (RC + CC).

  The calculation of the width of the sleeve under the armhole 

SROC = (Op + Pop)/2.

 The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in the areas of:

the width of the backrest PN.a portion of the openings of PN.PR, the width of the chest PN.g, i.e.
PG = PN.+ PN.PR + PN.g.

The area of the openings give the part of the total stock of GHGs, which ensures the normal width of the openings. The rest of the stock of PG are distributed as follows: 0,6 - width of the back, the 0.4 of the width of the chest.

If the total allowance at the chest line PG for jacket is at least 8 cm, it is distributed in the following percentages: the width of the backrest 25 - 30 %, the area of the openings 55 and 45 %, of the width of chest 20 - 25 %;

 determines the width of the areas on the drawing: 

backless - SHS + PN.with + Pshow;
armhole - UPR+ PN.PR + Pshow;
shelves - CG + PN.g + Psov.

  Calculation of posture was carried out using two measurements - Dt.p and Dt.with.

The posture of the figure (slouch or pereghibati) is determined by the formula OS = Dt.p - Dt.with.

Setting the width of the back, armhole and shelves, as well as the posture of the figure, proceed to the construction drawing design.