We present measurements of the shapes used to build the design of the coat.

Measurement of the shape, see:

SSH = 20,5 Dt.p = 55.6 Dr = 63
SG = 50 Loop = 20,4 Op = 32
St = 44 Dt.C = 45,5 CDF.h = 21,5
SB = 52 Di = 105 DP = 36
SHG = 19,2 SHP = 15,5

Constructive allowances for free customized fit, see:

PG = 5,6 PS.Ave = 2.5 PN.throats = 1,5
PT = 1 PD.t.s = 1.p = 9
Pb = 4,5 PD.t.n = 1,4

The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the width of the back of 20.4; the width of the shelves is 19.2; the width of the openings is 10.4.

Sleeve width, SROC = (Op.p)/2 = (32 + 9)/2 = 20,5 see
 
The distribution of the common stock of PG (5.6 cm) plots, see: the width of the backrest - 1; the width of the shelves is 0.5; the width of the openings was 4.1.

Width of the plots in the drawing (Fig. 65): back 20,4 + 1 + 1 = 22.4 cm; armhole 10,4 + 4,1 + 1,5 + 1,5 = 17.5 cm (1,5 + 1,5 is the sum of the two side seams of the Darts in the armhole); shelves 19,2 + 0,5 + 1 = 20,7 cm
 
To build the middle line of the back build a right angle with the vertex at the point A. the Level of the waist line at = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 1 = 46.5 cm; the level of the chest line AG = VLOOKUP.s + 2,5 = 21,5 + 2,5 = 24 cm; the level of convexity of the blades of AU = 0,HWP.s = 0.3 x 45,5 = 13,6 cm; greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles, or TB = 0,5 Dt.C - 3,5 = 0,5 x 45.5 - 3,5 = 19,3 cm
 
The length of the tails an = 105 + PD.t.C = 105 + 1 = 106 cm
 
Up from point L vertically, and up and right horizontal delay to 0.5 cm (points A0 and A01). The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line ТТ1 = 3, see Allocating the midline of the back at the level of convexity of the blades UU'1 = 0.3 cm. Retraction of the middle line of the back at the hem НН1 = 3 see the Middle line of the back is carried out through the points A01, Y'1, T1, B1 and H1. The middle line of the back intersects with the line of the chest at point G10.
 
To construct the bodice from the point G10 to the right lay the entire width of the product on the chest Г10ГЗ = SG + PG + PN(side) + PN(side tucks) = 50 + 5,6 + 2 + 3,0 = 60,6 see
 
From the point G3 to the left lay the cut ГЗГ4 = 20.7 cm (from prior calculation); from the point G10 to the right lay: Г10Г11 = 22.4 cm (from prior calculation); Г4Г11 = 17.5 cm For control: the sum of all the three parts should be ГЗГ4 + Г10Г11 + Г4Г11 = 20,7 + 22,4 + 17,5 = 60,6 cm
 
Determine the position of the lateral recesses at the line of openings: Г4Г41 = 3 cm; Г11Г12 = 3 cm.
 
Determine the position of the side cut of the back and shelves on the chest: Г10Г20 = Г10Г11/2 = 22,4/2 = 11,2 cm
 
Through the point G3 spend the vertical up and down. At the intersection with the horizontal from point And put a point A1; on the waist - T8; hips - B8.
 
The horizontal delay segments Aa1: AA = Г10Г11; A1A2 = ГЗГ4. G11 point and a and point G4 and A2 connect in straight lines.
 
Neck back and front shoulder seams and armhole, the angle suteki or leaves are constructed the same as the jacket.
 
To construct the Darts at the waist line define the amount of solutions tucks ∑V. All five Darts on the front, two lateral; on the side seam and the middle line of the back: ∑ = (SG + PG) - (St + PT) = (50 + 5,6) - (44 + 1) = 10,6 see
 
The actual deflection of the back at the waist (tuck) Т0Т1 = ТТ1 - ГГ10 = 3 - 1 = 2 cm.
 
If the sum of the solutions tucks, subtract 2 cm, we get a number that specifies the sum of the remaining four tucks: a 10.6 - 2 = 8.6 cm (the solution front tuck 0.2 x 8,6 = 1.7 cm; solution side tuck 0,3 x 8.6 = 2.6 cm; solution a second side tuck 0,25 x 8.6 = 2.2 cm; solution tucks into the side seam of 0.25 x 8.6 = 2 cm).
 
For the construction of the lateral cut back of the point of the G20 hold the vertical down to the hip line and at the intersection with the waist line put a point T3, with the line of hip point Б21. From the point T3 to the left and right equally lay mortar tuck in the side seam, which is 2 cm ТЗТ2 = ТЗТ31 = 2/2 = 1 cm.
 
The point of the G20 and T2, connect a smooth line. From the point Б21 right lay 0.5 cm and put a point B2. Through the points T2 and B2 to draw the hem (point D2). From point P3 up through the openings lay 3.5 cm, i.e. П3П31 = 3.5 cm Point PZ1 and the G20 connect a smooth line with a slight deflection towards the midline of the back. Down from point Л31 postpone 1 cm and put a point П32. Point П32 the G20 and connect a smooth line passing in line Г20Т31. П32П33 = 0.5 cm.
 
To build the lapel determine the position of a point H4. Т8Н4 = Т8Б8/2.
 
From the point H4 to the left lay the cut Н4Н5 = 4 cm Up from the point T8 lay 2 cm (point L). The width of the lapel of a coat is determined in the same way as the jacket.
 
From the point A41 on the continuation of the shoulder line to the right lay the cut А41з = 1.5 cm Point L and z and direct connect at the intersection with the line of the neck put a point F.
 
The point of the ledge lapel AB1 find the midpoint of the segment ФА6. Line external cut of the lapel is carried out through points L3 and L to point H5. Vertical from point Г41 down and continue from the point TB lay down 1.7 cm (Kzt61 point). Point N5 and Kzt61, connect a smooth line and continue its left to the junction point T5 located at the intersection of the vertical from point G12 with the waist line. Next point TB T31 and connect direct. From points T5 and TB the left and right equally delay solution side tucks, equal to, respectively, 2.2 and 2.6 cmTo build a front tuck determine the position of a point T71, located at the intersection of the vertical line а2Т7 Н5Т61, and points T72, located at the midpoint of the segment Н5Т71.
 
The front tuck is built on a straight line connecting the point T72 and GB. At the intersection of the straight Т72Г6 with waist dot T70. From the point T70 to the left and right equally postpone the solution front tuck, equal to 1.7 cm, the Upper end of the tuck behind point GB to 5.5 cm.
 
To construct the skirt (the bottom part of the coat) from point T31 is carried out vertical to the line of bottom and the intersection with the line of the hips put a point B3, with the bottom line - НЗ0. From the point НЗ0 left lay 2 cm (point N3). Points H3 and B3 connect the dotted line. From the point N3 is carried out perpendicular to the right line НЗБ3, which lay cut НЗН31 equal to the width of the bottom of the back Н1Н2 + 5.5 cm
 
Point T72 (the lower end of the right side of the front tucks) connect the auxiliary line with point Н31. At the intersection with the line of the hips put a point B4. From the point T31 lay right segment Т31Т4 = 3 see Point T4 and B3 connect the auxiliary line. From point T4 is carried out perpendicular to the right line Т4Б3 and at the intersection with the line Т73Н31 dot Kzt74. The deflection line Т4Т74 in the middle up to 0.7 see the Point Т4Т74 connect a smooth line. The side cut of the skirts hold a smooth line through the points T4, B3, H3 and on its continuation from the point H3 postpone 1 cm (point N32).On the bisector of the angle T73, Н31 N32 lay cut Н31Н33 = 8, see the Front section of the skirt is carried out through points of Kzt74, B4, N33, N32.
 
To determine the position of the Darts in the top cut of the skirt from point T4, the line skirts the right lay the cut Т4Т50 equal to the bottom of the barrel Т31Т51. Solution tuck 0.7 cm, the length of the tuck 4 to 5 cm seam are given to the bottom of the bodice from the point H5 to the point T31 and to the top of the skirt from the point of Kzt74, to the point T4.
 
From the point of N5 is carried out auxiliary straight up parallel to the fold line of the lapel of LF where you have the buttons: from the point H5 at a distance of 4 - 5 cm between the buttons - 9 buttons see All three.
 
A sleeve to a dress coat built in the same way as in a jacket (For.p = 9 cm). The width of the bottom of the sleeve is reduced by 0.5 cm To reduce the landing sleeve on the crown point A12 (see Fig. 54) is moved in the direction of point O2 on 1,5 - 2 see

 note. When you build the back of the coat line of the shoulder cut is moved from the point P1 up to the amount of seams in stitching the Darts in the armhole.

§ 2. CONSTRUCTING A TUX
 

The modern tuxedo is a single breasted smart jacket (Fig. 66), which closes with a single button. For typical tuxedo lapels, covered with silk cloth, and the shelves are straight or curved at the bottom. The style of lapel and collar can be a shawl or rascepa. The bottom of the lapel, the loop may have a common design, some extension or angle.

LABORATORY PRACTICAL WORK 10 

To develop the design of the tails (tuxedo). To make a model and test its fit. Perform work in the order listed.

1. To measure the real figure.

2. To determine the allowances.

3. To calculate the plots.

4. To develop the design of the tails (tuxedo).

5. To make the tuxedo (Tux) from the mock-up fabric.

6. To check the fit of the tuxedo (Tux) on the figure.

After analyzing the design and planting should pay attention to the combination of the skirt with the bodice front Darts to the side of the slice; the degree of process of the bodice, on the uniformity of the tails on the left and right sides of the back.

SELF-ASSESSMENT 

1. What are the characteristics of the suit and tuxedo?
2. What you need to pay attention in the allocation of GHG in the areas of the tuxedo?
3. How is the lapel of a tailcoat and tuxedo?
4. What is the difference in design from the tuxedo jacket?