The basic design are based on universal structures, which are characterized by the unity of the methods of designing men's, women's and children's clothing; construction techniques of drawing and structure of fixed payments, which remain unchanged. This allows you to confidently maneuver design, modify according to their wishes or model any node, to vary the allowances for free customized fit for areas of the back, armhole and shelves, depending on the silhouette to select any combination of the silhouette of the allowances.
Namely backless (Fig. 99, a). On a curve put the line of the cut; taking the magnitude of the bend, parallel to it, hold the line-hem bottom. From the line of bending up postponing the measure of length Di. Mold nameley the middle of the back, the neckline, mark the level of the width of the backrest in a narrow space. On the marked level, lay the width of the back (SHS + PN.C). Note the level of the waist and hips from the middle of the back and side of the slice. From the point of intersection of the middle of the back, with waist lay the measure of the height of the oblique shoulder of the EAP.K + p On the curve nameley the line of the shoulder cut and the upper part of the openings to the notches.The lower part of the armhole, from notch to the top side of the cut, plan also on a curve, moving it, respectively, in the direction common thread. Mark depth of armholes, nameley the line side of the slice.
Namely shelves (Fig. 99, b). Noting the width of the Board, nameset line polutanata. On a curve put the line of the cut; taking the magnitude of the bend, parallel to it, hold the line-hem bottom. From the line of bend along the line of prosanos outline the waist line, hips and chest. From the waist up lay the measure of the length of the waist of the front first with an allowance (Dt.p + PD.t.p). Alternately combining the lines of the hips, waist and Breasts with the marks inflicted in the line of prosanos, make the same selection from the side of the cut, while complying with the requirements to the direction of equity threads.Mold nameset line of the neck and beginning of shoulder of the cut. On the chest lay the width of the chest with allowance. Mold nameley the lower part of the armhole from the top side of the cut to control the notch, the line depth of the vertical openings, and mark the width of the chest on the patterns must match the same marks on the fabric. The top of the armhole is determined at the point of intersection of the shoulder width, specified by the standards of SHP and height of the openings. The width of the shelves on the levels of the chest and thighs respectively specify by the standards of the SG and SB with the allowances for free customized fit.The patterns applied to the line side of cut and specify the length, respectively the side cut of the back.
Namely sleeve (Fig. 99,). Sleeve nameset exactly to the patterns, if the width and depth of the armhole backrest and shelves under nemelka upheld. In these cases, specify the length of the sleeves made of PD and the level of the elbow. If the width of the openings increased or reduced by changing the width of the back or chest, you need the same amount to change the width of the sleeves. The height of the top part of the sleeve may increase or decrease depending on changes in the depth of the armhole. If nemelka shelves and back width armhole increased, respectively to expand the sleeve.
LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 20
Create design models for base patterns (4 - 5).
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