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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§1. Varieties of men's dress pants by shape and silhouette

Depending on the fashion of changing the length of the pants, the width at the hip, knee and especially in the leg opening. Low pants are cuffed (cuffs) or without them, gathered elastic or patoi.
There are various options for the design of belt and at the side pockets.
On the front half of woolen pants inside out and put a lining of a soft fabric to prevent the pants from pulling in the knee region. The front halves of trousers do one tuck and pleat in the pants adjacent silhouette pleat and tuck may be absent. However, the number of folds and their solution depend on fashion. On the rear half of the pants from seam protecive zone doing one or two tuck length 8 - 10 cm.
Fashion recent offers pants in a variety of shapes: skinny (jeans type); straight throughout its length; free forms narrowed in sets for rest.
In a business suit pants in the hips loose, trousers without a suit can have a tight fit.
All pants have the same design scheme, but in terms of the individual garments there are a number of features that depend on the age of the customer, its growth and completeness, features of body shape, fashion wear (suit or not), and the direction of fashion.
When measuring the shape of the customer for construction of the trousers the tailor must pay attention to the manner of wearing the pants: some customers on the top of the pants is at the level of the iliac bones, others above or below them.
When determining pants length, you should consider the width of the pants at the bottom. When the width of the pants at the bottom of 24 - 27 cm distance from floor to hem of trousers (RP.n) must be equal to 5 - 6 cm, narrow trousers with a width below 20 - 23 cm distance from floor to bottom of pants - 7 - 8 see
 


Fig. 74. Measuring shapes for drawing pants and vests


When designing the different purpose pants for individual orders on figures that are close to the model, the appropriate use of the following dimensional characteristics for OST 17-325 - 81 (Fig. 74):

1(16) - chest girth third Oh;

2(18) - waist circumference;

3(19) - hip About;

4(25) - distance from waist line to floor at the side of DSB;

5(26) - distance from the waist line to the floor in front of the DSP;

6(21) - hip girth Lunch;

7(22) - circumference of knee OK;

8(23) - calf circumference OI;

9(24) - circumference of the ankle.;

10(27) the length of the inside leg Days.

The width of the pants at the bottom and at knee level is determined in accordance with the direction of fashion and in coordination with the customer.
When you build design drawings of the pants use poluobhvat: Sh, St, SB. To simplify the calculations further dimension SG will be denoted by SG. Measurement poluobhvat chest SG is used if the figure is full, with a protruding belly. Measures 4 and 5 (DRC and DSP) is used if a figure has a thin waist with large hips. Dimension 6 (Lunch) to apply, if you are building trousers with a tight fit along the entire length or in the hips at the level of the most protruding points of buttocks and the desired length of fold.Dimensions 7, 8, 9 (OK, OI, .) used in the pants sporting destination with a tight fit on the parts of the knee, calf, ankle.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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