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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§20. The types of pockets and their construction

All kinds of pockets are divided into two groups - Welt pockets and patch. Depending on the location of the pockets are divided into internal (lining) and outside (in main details).
Slit pockets can be horizontal (or with a small deviation from the horizontal - inclined) and vertical (or with a small deviation from the vertical).

  Horizontal pocket (Fig. 53, a). The side pocket height is determined by the cut Т7К = 0,25 Dt.with a 3.5...5.5 cm.
To determine the slope of the pocket from the point T8 lay cut Т8К0 = Т7К + 1,5...2 cm Pocket is based on the straight line passing through the points K0 and K.
Length of the cut pocket К1К2 equal: for jacket - 0,2 SG + 5.5 cm; for coat - 0,2 SG + 6,5...7 see
To the left of the point To postpone the cut, 1/2 К1К2 + 1.5 cm
  Vertical pocket (Fig. 53, b). The position of the point K0 is determined by the cut Т4К0 = Т4Т7/2. The upper end of the pocket (point K1) is at a distance of 2 - 3 cm from the point K0 (if the product with the belt К0К1 = 0,5 W belt).
The length of the pocket is equal to: for jacket - 0,2 SG + 6...6.5 cm; coat - 0,2 SG + 7...7.5 cm.
The most common pocket with a small deviation from the vertical. To build, make a cut from point K1 of radius К1К2 in the vertical extending from the point A2 through the point T7 (point To'2).
Patch pocket (Fig. 53). A patch pocket is based on Welt pockets located above the lateral Welt pockets at 1 - 2 cm Width at the top surface of the pocket is equal to the length of the side slash pockets, plus 2 - 3cm; the length of the pocket equal to its width at the top plus 1 - 3 cm. These sizes depending on model can have different values.
The location of the surface of the pocket depends on the plan model. The most common is the position of the surface of the pocket when KK1 = К1К2/2 or К1К2/2 + 1,5...2 cm
  Oblique Welt pocket (Fig. 53, g). Welt pockets can have an inclined position. The basis for building a slanted side pocket is Welt pocket. Slant pocket in the upper position is based on the straight line passing through the points T8 and K. the arc radius KK1 between points K1 and K'1 is the position of the front end of the inclined pocket.
  Variety of pockets with a small deviation from the vertical. Pocket with leaves (Fig. 53, d). The pocket on the line К1К2. Line primaqiune leaves К3К4 built at some distance from the line К1К2. The width of the leaves is determined by the style, usually К1К3 = 2...3 see
  the Pocket in the frame (Fig. 53, e). The pocket К1К2 the same position of the entrance to the pocket with leaflets (see Fig. 53, d). The width of the frame depends on style (usually 0.5 - 1.5 cm).
The pocket in the frame with the zipper shown in Fig. 53.
  Variety patch pockets. Patch pocket with a flap (Fig. 53, h). Valve width is usually equal to 4.5 - 5.5 cm.
Notched patch pocket (Fig. 53). A few dips in front, has a sloping upper edge and the entrance to the pocket in the frame or the leaf.
Patch pocket volume (Fig. 53). Cut out two pieces having dimensions of surface-mounted pocket. The sides are cut as rectangles or sharp corners, the top of which is located at the entrance of the pocket or at the lower edge of the pocket (Fig. 53, l). Width side 1 - 3 refer to
  the Relative positions of the upper and lower patch pockets jacket sport(Fig. 53, m). Upper patch pocket is based on the top of the pocket with leaflets. The width of the surface of the pocket at the top equal to the length of the leaves, plus 1.5 - 2 cm Length of the pocket equal to its width plus 1 cm.
To construct an upper surface of the pocket from a point G4 on the chest lay the cut Г4К3 = 0,25Г3Г4 - 1 cm; cut К3К4 = 0,2 SG + 0.5 to 1.5 cm From point lay up K3, 3 - 3.5 cm (dot K31); from the point K4 is 2.5...3 cm (point K41). Line К31К41 is the entrance to the pocket.
The length of the pocket К41К'4 = К31К'3 = К31К41 + 1 see Points K3 and K4 are arranged at the same distance from the point GB (the center of the chest at the chest line). Upper patch pocket decorated strap.
Lower patch pocket is often arranged so that the points K1 and GB were at the same distance from the line of prosanos; К1К2 - width surface of the pocket; К1К'1 - the length of the pocket. Strap width patch pockets is 1/6 of their width.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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