Sleeve one-piece with the bottom and middle seam and the cuff (Fig. 54, a). After determining the total length of the sleeve you need to install the cuff width and length; determining the length of the sleeves without cuffs and its width. You need to measure the circumference of the wrist, OSAP and to set the allowance for loose fit.

  Example. Total length 62 cm. Cuff width 7 cm Total length in the drawing, 62+2=64 cm, where 1 cm on setting a sleeve in the armhole, 0,7...1 cm - primaqiune cuffs. Sleeve length without cuff 64 - 7=57, see
The circumference of the wrist of 18.5 cm seam Allowance to the circumference of the wrist 6 cm Length cuff ready, OSAP+6=18,5+6=24.5 cm; НН1=Н2НЗ=24.5 cm. Width bottom sleeve М1М31=30 cm (see Fig. 54).
Sleeve should prisborivat under the cuff, an amount equal to the difference between the width of the sleeves and the length of the cuff, i.e. 30 - 24,5=5.5 cm.
At the top of the sleeve can be vachana or stitched decorative strip BB1 with a width of=6 cm; О2В=9, see 
  free one-piece Sleeve with high height of the crown and the cuff (Fig. 54, b). This sleeve is constructed with a short height crown and is used in jackets-shirts. The construction of the top part of the sleeve is the same as in the double seam with the upper sleeve and the lower middle line.
The height of the top part of the sleeve is determined by the formula
Vok = 0,Z(П2Г11 + П4Г4).
Lines front and rear sections of the sleeve are constructed from points On'13 and A13 on the verticals.
The length of the sleeves aside from the point O1:
О1М = Druk - Smanjiti.
To the length of the sleeve is given an allowance to stitch in armhole and cuff primaqiune. Bevel the bottom of the sleeves with cuff minimum (М2М3 = 0.5 cm). Slit on the sleeve is based on the line О3М3. The length of the incision from point M3 up to 10 cm Width of the cuff depends on style. In our example, the width of cuff 6 cm On cuff one loop, which is located at the midpoint of the segment НН2 (from the edge of 2 cm). This sleeve can be short. Rolled up sleeve to the elbow is fastened by a strap. To build tab determine its location and its length. The middle strap is on the line О2М01.The eye loop strap is located on the mid-length cut ОЛ0. From the point Л0 lay 2 cm down on the securing tab two lines. The width of the strap 3 cm mysik from the eye loop 1 see Tab participantsa on the reverse side. If the strap is a decorative item, it is placed on the front side, in the area between the line of height of crown (point O) and the line of the elbow (point Л0). The length of the strap 10 to 12 cm; it may be directed by the vertex of the angle both down and up.
  Sleeve one-piece straight (Fig. 54). This sleeve can be applied in voluminous jackets with removable insulation and in jackets-blouses of different lengths and volume, as well as in the cloaks. The top part of the sleeve inflated and are similar to sleeve one-piece with a high crown (see Fig. 54, b). The width of the bottom of the sleeve increases and tightening the strap.
The procedure for calculating one-piece straight sleeve model product size 50 (see Fig. 54).
Height of crown: РпО1 = 0,3( П2Г11 + П4Г4) = 13 see
Sleeve length at the line of front roll:
О1М = Druk + Psov - 1 = 63 + 1 - 1 = 63 see
The line of the elbow is determined by the cut О1Л = 0.5 Druk + 5 = 0.5 x 63 + 5 = 36,5 cm Height of the front notch: FP5 = Г4П7 (on the shelf). Sleeve width is measured by the length О1О3 (in our example - 23 cm). The position of the line of the top part of the sleeve is determined by the points and segments:
O2; О1О2 = О1О3/2;
A12; О1О12 = О1О2/2;
P9; 5P9 = ABOUT125/3;
the top of the elbow roll
О3О4 = О1Рп/3 - 0.5 cm;
points 7 and 9; ON27 = О2Р9/2; ABOUT29 = О2О4/2;
segments 7 - 8 = 0,1О2Р9 + 0.5 cm;
9 - 10 = 0,1О2О4 + 0.3 cm.
The width of the bottom sleeve MM2 = 0,2 SG + 8...10 cm; slant sleeve М2М3 = 2, see Point O4 and M3 connect in a straight line. Cut Рпб1 = Г42 (on the shelf) - 0,2 cm Cut RPG'2 = 0,5 PDS = 8.5 cm (in our example, PDS = 17 cm). РпР2 = PDS = 17 see Cut , P212 = 0,25 PDS - 0.5 cm.
The line of the crown carried out through the points O2, 5, B1, G'2, 12, O4.
To build a pivot sleeve from the point G'2 is carried out vertical to the bottom line. At the intersection with the line of the elbow - point Л0; bottom line - М01 (see Fig. 54, b).
The expansion of the sleeve under the armhole in the form of gussets: G '2G'21 = 2 - 2.5 cm (see Fig. 54, b); G '2 G'22 = 2 - 2,5 cm Length 2Л01 G = 15...16 see
The pivot sleeve from the line of front roll
RPB = Рпб1; РпО13 = RPG'22.
To determine the position of the point M1 is carried out two arcs from the points M radius, MM'01, and from the point A13 radius G '22M'01. The intersection of the arcs determines the position of the point M1. Point A13, and M1 connect a smooth line similar to the line G '22M'01. The line of the crown continues through point b to the point A13.
For turning the sleeve from the point G'21 hold the line, perpendicular line О4МЗ, and continuing to the left from the point Рл1 (located at the intersection with the line О4МЗ) lay cut Рл1О'13 = Рл1Г'21. The point About'13 and RL connect direct.
To determine the position of the point M31 pursue two intersecting arcs from points M3 radius М3М'01 and from point O with a radius 1Z G '2M'01. The point About'13 and M31 connect a smooth line similar to the line G '21M'01.
To build the crown lay cut HRD'2 = РлР2; P'2 - 12' = P2 - 12. The crown is carried through the points O4 and 12' to
the point About'13.

Fig. 55. Drawing sleeve shirt casual

  Sleeve shirt casual (Fig. 55). Spend two perpendicular lines intersect at a point O. the height of the crown (see Fig. 48) is determined by the formula
Vok = ОО2 = 0,3 (П2Г11 + П4Г4).
With the additional deepening of the openings of the product the height of the crown may be reduced
ОО2 = 0,3 (П2Г11 + П4Г4) - 1...2 cm, and the width of the sleeve under the armhole to increase.
The width of the sleeve under the armhole will also determine the length of the armhole. To do this, from the point O2 (see Fig. 55) make a notch with a radius equal to half the length of the measured openings to the left and right on a horizontal line passing through the point O At the intersection of the dots P1 and P2, that connect with the point O2.
To build the top part of the sleeve line О2Р1 divided into two equal sites, i.e. О2С = Р1С. In the middle of the plot О2С (point 2) on the perpendicular lay-up cut 2 - 2' = 0,1О2С, and in the middle of the straight Р1С (point 1) on the perpendicular lay down cut 1 - 1 = 2 - 2'/2. Through the points O2, 2',, 1' and P1 hold the front part of the crown sleeve. To build the back of the top part of the sleeve line О2Р2 divided into three equal parts (points 3 and 4), of which the perpendiculars lay the segments 3 - 3' = 0,1 O2 - 4 and 4 - 4' = 3 - 3'/2. The rear part of the crown is conducted through the points O2, 3', 4' and P2.
Sleeve length without cuff
О2М = Druk + 2 cm - Smanjiti.
To determine the width of the sleeves without cuffs determine the length of the cuff НН1 = ASAP +.Zap. In our example НН1 = 18,5 + 6,5 = 25 cm.
Sleeve width М1М2 = length cuff + solution folds. In our example М1М2 = 25,6 + 6 = 31,6 cm
where 6 cm - 4 folds at 1.5 cm.
From the point M (bottom sleeve) lay the width of the sleeve MM1 = MM2 = 15,8 cm
Through the height of the crown from the points P1 and P2 lay Р1Р'1 = 1.5 cm; P2P'2 = 1.5 cm Point P'1 and P'2 respectively connected to points M1 and M2 of the straight lines and continue to lay the cut М1М11 = М2М21 = 0.5 cm From the points P1 and P2 carry out smooth lines down.
The incision is located at the midpoint MM2, length of slit 11 cm Width 7 cm cuff To cuff two loops located at a distance of 2 cm from the upper edge and the fold line and at a distance of 1.5 cm from the front of the slice.

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 6 

Perform work in the order listed.
1. To measure the shape analysis of the features of the physique.
2. Choose a seam allowance.
3. To calculate the width of the sleeves and lots: of back, arm openings and shelves in the drawing. To determine the posture of the figure.
4. To build drawings of the patterns of the main parts of the top.
5. To cut on the patterns of the mock-up fabric and make a model.
6. To discuss the quality of the planting layout on the figure, identify errors, make changes to the layout and re-check in the figure.

Option 1. To build a single-breasted jacket with a straight semi-fitted silhouette with two-button placket. Turn-down collar. Shelves with two side Welt pockets, the left side one top pocket with leaflets. Vented back. Sleeve double seam, casting, unfastened slit with three buttons.

Option 2. To build coat jacket, straight silhouette with two-button placket. Turn-down collar. Shelves with two side Welt pockets. Vented back. Sleeve double seam, casting.

Option 3. To build jacket youth free with zipper, hooded. On the shelves two lower patch pockets. The back with a seam in the middle. One-piece straight sleeve with cuff.
Also prepare the calculations of the hood, using the necessary measurements and allowances for its construction.

SELF-ASSESSMENT 

1. What are the sequence of taking measurements?
2. How to allocate the total allowance for the chest?
3. How to change the width of the openings of the product depending on the circumference of the shoulder?
4. Is it possible for the arm circumference to determine the width of the openings?
5. Methods of determining the balance point on the shelf.
6. How to build a corner suteki and what are the methods of translation angle sutysky?
7. How is the thickness of an insulation strip on sites in the winter?
8. How to build a fold line of the lapel?
9. What is the width of polutanata in single-breasted and double-breasted products?
10. How does the point of the ledge of the lapel on the shape of the collars (lapels)?
11. How is the position of the line of the pocket (slotted and plated)?
12. How do you calculate the length of the pocket?
13. What is the novelty of design solutions in the youth clothing?
14. What is the essence of constructive solutions to the sleeves of jackets?
15. What are the features of the construction of one-piece sleeve with cuff free?
16. What are the design features of single-joint sleeve.
17. How is the height of the crown sleeve one-piece shirt casual?
18. How is the width of the bottom sleeve one-piece with a sleeve?
19. What are the measurements necessary to determine to build the hood?
20. As expected, the solution tucks in products adjacent silhouette?