The most complicated work with basic patterns is their adjustment when cutting the product into pieces with deviations from the model. Adjustment of basic patterns on shape deviations from the model can be made by notching the curves, and by their relocation.
In the first method of the patterns in certain parts of the incision, and putting them accordingly on the fabric, bred to extend the sections or by overlaying of the patterns on each other at a certain angle, shorten the length of the plots.
In the second method, all these operations are performed by changing the key design points (movement points of the curves). Patterns placed on the cloth, casting light dashed lines outline the waist, chest, etc. Then on the respective sites changes according to the deviations of the figure. According to the obtained points lead round contours of the parts and get drawing for this shape.
In the above drawings the adjusted areas are shown as solid lines, and the basic patterns - bar.
After adjusting patterns check again obtained the drawings for the blank standards.
 

In Fig. 117, and shows how adjustments of the back on stooping figure. The upper part of the mold is cut along the line of convexity of the blades U 1П3 and shifts upward from point Y'1 and P3 0.3 OS and moves further from the points At'1 0.2 OS to drain the base of the neck of the back towards the armhole. Thus, the waist length of the back of Dt.with elongates by 0.5 OC, and the height of the armhole of the backrest is increased by 0.3 ind. Back at the level of convexity of the blades and the chest expands. The deflection of the middle line on the waist line increases.
The resulting displacement and abduction of the upper part of the mold and its almalki get the new position of the line of the neck, shoulder and cutoff armholes.
In Fig. 117, b shows a method of adjusting shelves on a hunched figure. As well as in the back, the upper part of patterns is cut. The section line passes horizontally through the center of the chest (G7). At the intersection of the line of prosanos put the point of the G8, the line of the armhole - point П70. The upper part of the shelves is shifted down from the points of the G8 and П70 0.3 OS and an additional point G8 0.2 OS to drain the base of the neck of shelves in the direction of prosanos. Thus, the balance point A41 is moved down and to the left by 0.5 OC, and the height of the armhole shelves reduced by 0.2 OS.A shelf at the level of the center of the chest and the chest zauzeta, respectively Г41 point moves to the right in the direction of prosanos.
As a result of adjustments and almalki patterns shelves get a new position of the line of the neck, shoulder and cutoff armholes.
 

In Fig. 118, a, and b shows a method of adjustment of the backrest and shelves on pereghibati figure. The upper back moves down from the point y'1 and P3, respectively, 0.5 and 0.3 OS OS, thereby reducing the length of the waist back and the height of openings. Back at the line of the shoulder blades and chest sowjets, the deflection of the middle line on the waist line is reduced, and the base of the neck of the backrest moves to the left.
The upper part of the curves of the shelves from points 8 and П70 respectively moved up by 0.5 and 0.3 OS OS, thereby moving the balance point up and to the left A41. After almalki top patterns get the new position of the neck shelves, the shoulder cut arm openings. Width of the breast at the level of the center of the chest expands, the point Г41 moves to the left.
  Changes in the design of the sleeves, stooped and perigenital figure by adjusting basic patterns. Adjustment of templates backrest and shelves, depending on the posture of the figure changes the contours of the openings, which entails changes in the construction of crown sleeves.
 

In Fig. 119, and shows how to change the basic patterns sleeves, stooped figure. The upper part of the upper half of the sleeve is cut along the line Р1Р3 and turn clockwise around a point About 0.3 of the OS from the point of RL. As a result, after almalki cutting of the sleeves get the new position of the top part. The point P7 is the top elbow of the cutoff is moved up and to the right, the point O2 is moved to the right in accordance with the movement of points P1 and P50 in the back of the shelf and stooped figure, the point P1 moves down.
In Fig. 119, b, cutting part of the arm rotate counterclockwise around a point About 0.3 of the OS from the point of RL. The point P7 is moved down to the left, the point O2 is moved to the left in accordance with the movement of the points P5 and P1 on the shelf and the back pereghibati figure.
 

In Fig. 120 shows the method of adjustment of the backrest and shelves products casual Raglan stooped and perigenital figure.
The upper back is cut on the line А01П31 and moves vertically upwards from the points A01 and П31 respectively 0.5 and 0.3 OS on a hunched figure and vertically down from the points A01 and П31 respectively 0.5 and 0.3 OS on pereghibati figure. On the shelf the upper part is cut along the line А6П61. On a hunched figure cut-out part is moved down vertically from the points A6 and П61 respectively 0.5 and 0.3 OS. On pereghibati the shape of the cutting part is moved vertically upwards from points A6 and П61 respectively 0.5 and 0.3 OS.Casting on the sleeve, on the basis of which the building Raglan line at the height of the crown Rprl move from the point PL up by 0.3 OC (on a hunched figure) and downward from the point RL 0.3 OS (pereghibati figure).

LABORATORY PRACTICAL WORK № 23 

To namelythe details on the patterns basic designs and cut out 2 - 3 products.