To build classic trousers (available along the entire length with allowance for free customized fit to poluobhvat hips at least 2 cm) need the following measurements: - poluobhvat waist, St, SB poluobhvat hips, the length of the pants to the side DB.
Here is an example of the construction of the design of the pants on the model figure. The design drawings are considered pants seam, except for the line of the seat. The drawings are given without seam allowance to hem the bottom.
Measurement figures, see: St = 44; SB = 52.
The pants length SB is determined by measuring the distance from the iliac crest on the lateral surface of the femur vertically to the instep of the Shoe or to the floor, subtracting 5 - 6 cm, if the width of the pants at the bottom SHN 24 - 27, see In our example, SN = 24 cm Width at knee level SHK = 25 cm, pant Length DB = 105 cm Allowance for the free fit of the pants to the hips poluobhvat Pb = 2 cm.
 

 The front half of the pants. The build starts with a vertical crease line of the trousers. The upper end of the crease line denoted by point T (Fig. 75). From this point lay the pants length DB with a seam allowance of protecive zone. Pants length T = DB + PN = 105 + 1 = 106 cm
The seat height is defined as TN by calculation, and by means of the specified measurements: TY = SB/2 - 1...2 cm in the IV growth. (CHA = SB/2 - 1 for pants free; CHA = SB/2 - 2 for poluprilegayuschy pants).
The seat height from growth to growth changes by 0.5 cm.
To determine the height of the seat by measuring the first method to find the vertical distance from the crest of the Ilium on the lateral surface of the femur DRC to the floor and the foot length (steps) on the inner surface from the crotch to the floor Days (TN = DRC - Nam).
When determining the height of the seat is an ideal way to find THEE equal to the distance between the iliac crest and hip girth. Hip girth encircling horizontal belt by touching the upper edge of the desired length of fold.
To determine the level of the hip line from point I up the crease line lay 6 cm (a constant number), i.e. YAB = 6 cm.
The height of a line knee length determine the size taken from the iliac crest on the outer surface of the hip to the knee, or by dividing the distance between the level line of the thighs and bottom half, i.e., BK = bn/2; through the points T, B, I, and N is carried out horizontally.
The width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the hip line is determined by the formula
Б1Б2 = 0,5 SB + 2 = 0.5 x 52 + 2 = 28 cm, where 2 is the magnitude of the displacement of the side seams of the front half to the rear half.
The amount of movement of the side seams of the front half to the rear depends on the allowance to the thighs IB. If Pb is zero, the movement of joints is also equal to zero; if Pb is equal to 1 cm, the movement of the stitches is 1 cm; if the Pb - 3 to 4 cm, the movement of the joints is equal to 2 cm.
The width of the step front halves at the level of the hips determines the length of Б2Б21 = 0,1(SB + Pb) = 0,1(52 + 2) = 5,4 see
Fold line front halves of the pants passes through the point B, located at the midpoint of the segment Б1Б21.
Б1Б21 = Б1Б2 + Б2Б21 = 28 + 5,4 = 33,4 cm;
BB1 = ББ21 = 0.5 x 33,4 = 16,7 cm
The width of the front halves lay down from point N. While НН1 = НН2 = 0,5 SN = 0.5 x 24 = 12 cm.
The width of the front halves at the level of a line knee length delay from the point K. the KK1 = KK2 = 0,5 Wk = 0.5 x 25 = 12.5 cm Point H1 and K1, and points N2 and K2 connect by straight lines. After this point K1 and B1, and K2 and Б21 connect straight lines and at the intersection of the line of the buttocks dots H1 and Я21.
Width of the front halves at the line of the buttocks Я1Я2 = Б1Б2.
To construct a line of the bow from point B~ up is carried out vertical to the intersection with the horizontal line passing through the point T (point T2) . Points B2 and H2 connect the auxiliary line. On the bisector of the angle Б2Я2Я21 lay cut Я21 = 1.5 cm.
The width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line defines the cut
Т2Т1 = 0.5 St + solution front pleats and Darts + 2 = 0.5 x 44 + 2 + 1,5 + 2 = 27.5 cm, where 2 is the magnitude of the displacement of the side seams towards the rear halves of the waist.
Up from point T1 vertical lay cut Т1Т11 = 0,5...0,7, see Point T11 and B1 connect auxiliary line. The deflection of the midpoint of a line Т11Б1 equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm Point T11 and B1 connect a smooth line. On the upper cut of the pants point T2 and T, and T11 and T connect by straight lines.
From the point T to the left lay the solution of front folds. A tuck feature at the midpoint of the segment ТТ11. Length tuck 7 - 8 cm, solution tuck 1.5 cm
To build side-stepping and cuts the front half from the middle of the lines Я1К1 and Я21К2 make the deflection equal to 0.3 cm. Deflection bottom line from the point N up is 1 see
  the Back half of the pants. The side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined by the segments Н1Н3 and Н2Н4, while Н1Н3 = Н2Н4 = 2 cm (seam to the front and rear halves).
The side and step sections of the rear halves of the pants on the line of the knee is determined by the segments К1К3 and К2К4, К1К3 = К2К4 = 2 cm.
To the left of the point B1 on the horizontal lay cut Б1Б3
Б1Б3 = 0,1(SV + PV) - 1 = 0,1(52 + 2) - 1 = 4,4 see
Point K3 and B3 connect by a straight line. To determine the width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line from point B3 to the right horizontally lay the cut Б3Б4 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2 = (52 + 2 + 3) - 28 = 29 see
In this case, if Pb is equal to 2 cm, the width of the rear half at the hip line Б3Б4 can be identified and so Б3Б4 = SB/2 + 3 = 52/2 + 3 = 29 see
To lengthen the rear halves of the pants along the line of the seat for freedom of movement determine the balance. The balance of the pants is the position of the seat back halves of the pants relative to the length of the front bow halves from the hip line to the waist line.
From point B3 of radius Б3Б4 hold up an arc and lay the cut Б4Б5, which determines the balance:
Б4Б5 = 1/20(Sat + sun) = 1/20(52 + 24) = 3,8 see
The balance line can be found in another way: Б4Б5 = 0,1 SB - 1.5 cm.
Line Б4Б5 continue down to the intersection with the line of the buttocks at the point Ya40. From the slope of the line of the seat depends on the size of the wet-heat treatment and its complexity that, in General, affects the fit of the pants on the figure of the customer. For the most efficient and versatile of the slope of the line seat from a point on Ya40 horizontally to the right lay the cut Я40Я4 equal Б4Б5 - 1 see
Я40Я4 = Б4Б5 - 1 = a 3.8 - 1 = 2.8 cm
Through the points H4 and B5 draw up, at which point B5 lay cut Б5Т5 equal to the segment Б2Т2.
Б5Т5 = Б2Т2 - for shapes close to the model.
From the point H4 to the horizontal to the right lay the cut Я4Я5 that defines the width of the step rear halves of the pants. The width of the step depends on the degree of fit of the pants at the line of buttocks and freedom of movement.
Я4Я5 = 0,25(SB + IB) - 1...2 cm = 0.25 x 54 - 1...2 = 12,5...11,5 cm
The maximum step width rear halves: 0,25(SB + IB). Minimum step width of the rear halves: 0,25(SB + SP) - 3 cm.
On the bisector of the angle Б5Я4Я5 lay cut I42 = 1.2 cm From the point AM5 down vertical lay 1.5 cm and put a point Yab. Point BU H4 and connect the auxiliary line. The line of seats is carried out through the point T5, B5, 2; BU. Point BU K4 and connect with a straight line. The deflection of the middle of the straight line К4Я6 equal to 1.5 cm.
To determine the width of the rear half at the waist line hold the two arcs:
from point T5 with a radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the waist,
0.5 St + 3 + Lim = 0.5 x 44 + 3 + 1 = 26 cm, where 3 is the value of the solution back tuck; 1 - seam; from the point B3 with a radius equal to the segment Б1Т11.
At the intersection of the arcs put the point T3, which is connected to the point B3. The deflection of the midpoint of a line Т3Б3 equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm Deflection from the middle of the bottom line (point N) is equal to 1 cm.
The position of the rear tuck on the line of the upper edge of the rear halves is determined by the cut Т3Т31 = 0,5Т3Т5 - 1 = 0.5 x 26 - 1 = 12 cm On the perpendicular from the point T31 to a straight Т3Т5 lay down length tuck Т31К5 = 7...8 see
Line the back pocket of perpendicular lines Т31К5 and passes through the point K5. From the point K5 to the left and right delay to half the length of the pocket.
When you build a back pocket with two Darts on the solution of each tuck is 2 cm From the ends of the tuck pocket located at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm in the Left end of the pocket extends from the lateral cutoff distance of 5.5 - 6 see
  the position of the pockets. The position of your pockets is dictated by the ease of use and fashion. The line features pockets in the side seam of a sloping, horizontally and vertically.
Typically, the upper end of the inclined pocket on the front half of the feature relative to the point T11 to the right at a distance of 4 cm (below the waist by 3 cm).
The lower end of the pocket is the right side of the slice at a distance of 3 cm.
The pockets are arranged horizontally and parallel to the upper slice, the front halves are located at the average distance of 6 - 7 cm from the line of protecive zone. The end of the pocket, facing to the side seam, located at a distance of 3.5 - 4 cm from the line of the side seam.
The length of the slot pocket is defined by a size: the average for the 50 size the length of the pocket located in the side seam, is 17 cm; angled front half is 16.5 cm; arranged horizontally on the front half of 14.5 - 15 cm; located horizontally on the right rear half - 14 see All kinds of pockets of change -+0.3 cm from size to size.