From the top right angle at point A (Fig. 5) down vertically lay the cut at defining the level of the waist line.
At = Dt.+ PD.t.from where Dt.s - back length to waist with consideration of protrusion of the blades; PD.t.with allowance for the thickness of the material (to maintain the level of the waist line).
Depending on the fashion the position of the waist line relative to the point T may vary within ±2 cm
  Level of the breast line is defined in two ways. By the first method it is determined using the height of the openings behind the CDF.W and the seam allowance to the length of the back to the waist line PD.t.with.
AG = the CDF.s + PS.PR + PD.t.s, where PS.PR = 2.5 cm; PD.TS = 0.5 cm.
The level of the chest with the second method, is determined using measurements of the height of the barrel WB.
TG = VB + PD.t.s - PS.PR - 1/2Пд.t.s = WB + 1 - 2,5 - 0,5 = WB - 2.
Given the constancy of the terms of the PoA.t.with and PS.the PR formula can be applied in a simplified form: TG = WB - 2.
Note. To check the correctness of the measurements taken of the value of the CDF.z find from the expression of VPR.z = Dt.with - VB.
  The level of convexity of the blades is determined by the segment Y = 0.3 mm Dt.with.
  The greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles is determined by the segment TB = 0,5 Dt.- 3,5 cm
  Jacket length is set by agreement with the customer based on fashion trends, on a scale recommended lengths of the products or models
An = Di + DD.t.with.
The control method determine the length of the jacket:
Height/2 - 12 cm.
Up from point A in the prolongation of the vertical lay cut АА0 - increasing the base of the sprout (neck backless), АА0 - 0,5...0,7 cm.
From the points A, G, T, B and N. to the right is carried out straight horizontal.
  The middle line of the back depends on the model, fitting of product, silhouette, and the presence of a seam in the middle back.
If the back is solid, then the middle line of the back in the drawing must be straight, and when cutting to the same shared thread. In mens outerwear with a solid back middle line is carried straight, but with some abstraction from the vertical, which ensures elongation of the back and the best fit of the blades. The magnitude of the diversion at the level of the waist line is usually 1/4 to 1/2 the depth of the first waist HT. The average value GT = 6 cm.
If the back middle seam, then the average cut back is carried out with bending at the waist and splaying at the top. The amount of deflection of the middle slice of the backrest depends on the posture of the figure, the degree of fit and the change of properties of the fabric in the process of technological processing.
The middle line of the back at the top to level blades in products with a split back for shapes close to the model is withdrawn to the right by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, i.e. А0А01 = 0,5...0,7 cm.
The amount of deflection of the middle line ТТ1 backless split with a seam for a semi-fitted silhouette 2.5 cm, adjacent silhouette 3 - 3.5 cm; if the back is solid one-piece, semi-fitted silhouette for ТТ1 = 1.5 cm, and for direct 1 see
The diversion of the middle line of the back at the level of convexity of the blades UU'1 = 0.3 cm.
The middle line of the back is carried out through the points A01, Y'1, T1, H1.
At the intersection of the middle line of the back, with contours at chest level dot G10, but at the level of the hip point B1.
  The width of the back in accordance with a preliminary calculation delay from points A and G10 right contours to points a and G11, i.e., AA = Г10Г11.
The width of the back at the level of the waist line is determined depending on the width of the back at the level of the chest line Т1Т2 = Г10Г11 - 4.5 to 5 cm.
Back width at the hip line is determined by the cut Б1Б2 = Т1Т2 + 0.5 to 1 cm.
If poluobhvat hips at the customer significantly more of the model, determine the width of the back at the hip line and then depending on it - width at the waist:
Б1Б2 = (SB + SP)/3 + Pshow; Т1Т2 = Б1Б2 - 0,5...1 see
  the Neck of the backrest (Rostock) built on perpendicular from point A01 to direct А01У. To calculate the width of the neck backless use measurements of poluobhvat neck School.
Width of the neck backless А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.g.with.
The height of the neck backless A1A2 lay up from point A1 and perpendicular to the line width of Rostock
A1A2 = А01А1/3 + Psov.
Form neckline backless resembles the quarter of an ellipse. For registration of the neck point A01 and A2 connect the auxiliary straight line and the perpendicular from the middle (point A02) lay down cut А02А03 0 1А01А2 + 0,2 see
The neckline of the back is carried out through the points A01, A03, A2.
  To construct a line of the shoulder cut of the back determine the position of the shoulder point P2. It can be defined in several ways.
The first method is associated with the standards of the EAP.to and EP.Ki. From the point T1 to the right on the horizontal delay line, equal to the width of the neck backless А01А1, and put a point T41, i.e. Т1Т41 = А01А1. From the point T41 with a radius equal to the measure VP.Ki + 3...3.5 cm, spend an arc crossing the line аГ11 at the point P2. From the point A2 down the neck of postpone 1 cm and put a point A20. Through it and the point P2 is carried out straight where you point the A20 lay the length of the shoulder with the common stock.
А20П1 = SHP + 2...2.5 cm, where 2...2.5 cm - the amount of allowances: seam (1 cm), Stojko (1...1,5 cm).
To determine the position of point P2 using the measurements of VP.from the top of the neck backless A2 conduct an arc of radius equal to the width of the shoulder. From point t0 is located at the intersection of the waist line with a straight line connecting the point a'1 and B1 (see Fig. 5), with a radius equal to the measure VP.to + 3...3.5 cm, carried out the second arc. The point of intersection of these arcs, and N2 is the required point.
The second method of determining the position of point P2 is associated with the determination of the height of the armhole of the backrest Г11Г2, which is by definition the measurement of the arc length drawn through the highest point of the shoulder joint DP (including common stock):
Г11П2 = 0,5 DP + 5.2 cm, 5.2 cm, where the amount of allowances: to free openings (2.5 cm), Stojko (1.5 cm) thick shoulder pads (0.7 cm), rounding the underlying layers of tissue (0.5 cm).
In this calculation, the height of the armhole of the backrest does not take into account variances in body posture.
The line of the shoulder cut of the back is carried out with a deflection from the point A2 about the line А20П1.
The third method of determining the position of point P2 is the measurement of the height of the shoulder Cap. Distance аП2 determined by the drawing as the difference VP - 5.2 cm
When taking measurements, the cutter decides which option most accurately you can determine the shoulder point on the shape of the customer.
  The armhole of the back is one of the major areas of product design with set-in sleeves. Width, height and shape of the openings should correspond to the size and posture. Pair lifts the sleeve with the armhole is a critical part of the design.
In the finished armhole is a closed spatial curve of ellipsoidal shape. On the design drawing the armhole open.
To build the armhole line of the back needed some reference point: a point P3, which lies at the intersection of the horizontal of the point and straight Г11а; auxiliary point 1, lying on the bisector of the angle with vertex at point G11 (its position depends on the width of the openings and is determined by the calculation G111 = 0,25 PDS); touch point G2 must be placed in the middle of the armhole (at the bottom of the cut openings for the line of armhole depth Г11Г2 = 0,5 PDS).
The armhole line of the back is carried out through the points P1, P3, 1 and G2.
  The side cut of the back is determined on the chest line the position of the point G5; on the waist line - the position of the point T2 on the line of the hips - the position of the point B2 on the bottom line - the position of the point H2. The length of the segment on the chest Г11Г5 ranges from 0.5 to 2.5 cm For the unification of design cut Г11Г5 taken as equal to 0.5 cm (regardless of size).
The line side of the slice is carried out through G5, T2, B2, H2. When finalizing side cut back into the area from the middle Г5Т2 given the camber line, equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm
  Length slots in the middle seam of the back determined fashion. Model length splines are according to the formula Н1Ш = 0,SSDI.
  The width of the slots Н1Ш1 equal to 4 - 5 cm.