§ 2. DEVELOPMENT OF CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS ACCORDING TO PHOTO OR DRAWING 

In fashion magazines different models are offered in the form of photographs and drawings that reflect promising fashion.

Unlike the pictures in the picture somewhat distorted natural proportions of the human (as if the figure lightweight). This is primarily due to aesthetic requirements. Model, redrawn from photographic accuracy, next to the photo seems to be heavy, the picture loses its ease. The proportions of the figure in the journal, as a rule, more elongated and change depending on fashion. However, change, sometimes to exaggerated proportions, shape magazine always subject to strict laws which designer it is important to know. For example, almost always upper torso close to the natural proportions.

Description of the appearance of the model. Determine the silhouette of the model. Describe the shelf (hook, tuck, reliefs, the yoke further details); back (middle seam, yoke, reliefs, etc.); a sleeve; collar and lining.
 

  An example of the description of the male costume. The jacket (Fig. 84) single breasted, with rounded bottom sides, with zipper on the two buttons. The shelf is notched, cutting the side parts and side Welt pockets with flaps. The left side top pocket with leaflets. Shelves duplicated with seal over the entire surface up to the cutting side.

Back middle seam ending in slit. Vtachnoy sleeve, double seam with vented hem and three buttons. Turn-down collar.

Jacket lined with two inside pockets with leaflets of the main fabric.

  Pants. The front half lined, pleats, side pockets with pokrainini barrels. The back half is notched. On the right rear half-Welt pocket with flap.

Banded waistband with six belt loops. The ends of the belt fastened with loops for the buttons. Clasp rhinestone straps four buttons. Trousers without cuffs.

  The vest is single-breasted with a zip on the five buttons, shelves with Darts and side pockets.

§ 3. INITIAL DATA FOR DEVELOPMENT OF DESIGN MODELS

Figure in fashion magazines is based on a certain Canon, i.e. the ratio of the conditional proportions of the human body, and for the unit (module) usually does the size of the head.

The average growth is 7.5 modules, the high growth in the correct proportions is 8 - 8.5 modules.

Due to the lack of stability in the techniques of photographing models and magazine graphics a single accurate method of determining the proportions of the model and the transfer of the shaped features of the model from the magazine picture doesn't exist. However, there is a method that helps to navigate in this work.

Determine the ratio of the size of one module of the real character (conditional growth model 176 - 180 cm) to one module in the picture or in the picture.

Example. One module of the real character equal 176/8=22 cm One module at pictures of 4 cm. Determine the transfer factor (the drawing scale): 22/4=5.5 cm. 

To determine the actual dimensions for parts find the dimensions of the part in the photo and multiplied by the transition rate.

Example. If the length of the valve in the photo is 3 cm, and the width in the middle 1 cm, the actual length and width of the valve is: 3x5,5=16.5 cm; 1x5,5=5.5 cm.

This method can not convey exactly the style of the product because may not be complete correspondence between the figure and the natural coffee. It is impossible to determine the length of the product, the length of the recesses, reliefs, since drawing three-dimensional form may not have full similarity with the drawing, which gives a planar picture of the product.

Despite the approximate transfer style, this method can successfully be applied in mass production because the development of product design performed on the model figure.

In terms of individual garments, where the cutter has to deal with the customer, a figure which is very often far from typical, this method of transferring style unacceptable. The cutter there is no need to reproduce exactly the model, because the individual characteristics of the customer's figure and require corrective action. At the same time he is obliged to keep the overall nature of the model, its artistic value in relation to this figure.

All this requires tailor future ability to correctly read the model or pattern in fashion, to have a certain skill transfer model photos or drawing on a design drawing.