Drawing a jacket on a hunched figure (Fig. 93) build on the basis of the drawing of the jacket on the model the figure with some changes in the construction of the back, armholes and sleeves.
For the convenience of comparison of the designs of jackets on the hunched figure and the model used measurement standard figure size 50, the second of completeness, in addition to Dt.C = 47 cm, Right z = 23 cm.
The posture of the figure
OS = Dt.p - Dt.C = 45 - 47 = 2 cm.
For better visual perception of the product on the hunched figure of the waist line design is moved up by 0.5 OS. In this case, the construction of the backrest
At = Dt.+ PD.t.C - 0.5 ° C = 47 + 1 - 1 = 47 see
The level of the hip line
TB = 0,5 Dt.with a 3,5 - 0,5 ° C = 0.5 x 47 - 3,5 - 1 = 19 cm
From point A upwards vertical delay 0.7 cm (the required allowance for Stojko) and put a point A0.
The splaying of the base of the sprout from the point A0 to the right for a stooping figure is 0.5 OS ie А0А01 = 0.5 x 2 = 1 cm.
The deflection of the middle line of the back on the waist line compared to a typical increase of 0.5 - 1 cm, i.e. ТТ1 = 3...3.5 cm.
The height of the armhole of the backrest
Г11П2 = DP 0,5 + 5,2 + 0,3 ° C = 0.5 x 36 + 5,2 + 0,6 = 23,8 cm
When you build a shelf position of the highest point of the neck determines the length of
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 3,5 - 0,5 ° C = 45 + 3,5 - 1 = 47,5 cm
All points on the waist line, located on a solid horizontally, is moved to the dotted lines (they define tall sizes).
The height of the armhole shelves
Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 4,2 Is 0.3 OS = 0.5 x 36 - 0,6 = 21,6 cm
To build the armhole point G4 is moved down vertically by 0.3 OC, and point G5 upward 0.3 of the OS. Accordingly, the dot G'4 and G'5, which connect a straight line. The position of the points P6 and P7 is determined by the point G'4.
On the back point G11 is moved up by 0.3 OS and put a point d'11.
The position of the point 1 is determined on the bisector of the angle П3Г'11Г2; G'111 = 0,25 PDS. The position of the point 2 is determined on the bisector of the angle П6Г'4Г5, G'42 = 0,25 PDS = 1.5 cm.