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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§2. Measurement of the human figure

§2. MEASUREMENT OF THE HUMAN FIGURE 

Good fit on the figure mainly depends on the accuracy of the measurements (dimensions) and the ability to choose the ones that most accurately characterize features of the figure, its deviation from the standard.
Under the new organization of the production of clothing for individual orders on the basis of methods similar to industrial production, using modern machinery and technology from cutter requires in-depth knowledge of design methods,ability to use the entire set of measurements in accordance with OST 17-325 - 86 and depending on the complexity of the shapes to use them.
Figures measured with measuring tape. The man which taking measurements, must stand still, without strain, without changing the normal posture, and must be without a jacket (shirt or vest).
For a precise definition of the waist line of the figure in the areas of maximum deflection of the waist must be girt with a cord, and check its levelness by measuring with measuring tape the distance from the lace to the floor front and back. Greater accuracy of the measurements needed, since the error in any measure lead to incorrect implementation of the design drawing.
To control determine the level of the waist line of model figures use the formula P/4, and IV growth P/4+1.
The total number of dimensional measurements to construct the upper shoulder of products for individual orders the most appropriate next (Fig. 3):

1 (13*) - poluobhvat neck School; measurement designed to determine the height and width of the neck backless;
* Numbers in brackets denote the number of measurements is given in OST 17-325 - 86.
2 (16) - poluobhvat chest third*g; the measurement intended to determine the size of the figures;
* To simplify the notation in the calculations in the future SG will be denoted SG.
3 (18) - poluobhvat waist, St is a measurement designed to determine the completeness of the figures;
4 (19) - poluobhvat hips SB; the measurement is intended to determine the greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles;
5 (45) - chest width SHG; measurement is designed to determine the shoulder width of the flooring product;
6 (36) - front length to the waist line Dt.p; the measurement intended to determine the balance of the product;
7 (47) - SHS shoulder width; measure is designed to determine the width of the back shoulder of the product;
8 (40) - back length to waist Dt.with simultaneous determination of length Di. In this case, length of back to waist, measure from the neck point to the waist line along the spine at the level of convexity of the blades and further down to the desired length; the measurement of Dt.C and D are recorded separately. Length of jacket, shoulder and other products, set the leading House models depending on fashion trends. Standard jacket length is equal to the distance from the cervical point to the level desired length of folds taking into account the convexity of the blades.The measurement is designed to determine the height of the waist line and length in the design of the product;
9 (43, 61) - measurement of Dt.CI and Dt.p are carrying standards and is designed to determine the position of the highest points of the neck back and shelves. When taking measurements shoulder seam line is projected on the eye, making mistakes. To avoid them, the measure Dt.define CI as the sum of CI t and BT.about.W where W.about.W = 3 cm - the height of the point base of the neck relative to the level of the cervical point (average for all sizes), i.e., Dt.CI = Dt.with + 3 cm.
Measurements Of Dt.CI and Dt.p removed with one reception and their sum is expressed by a single number. To determine the measurements of Dt.p from the amount of balance standards Σб.m subtract the measure Dt.CI.
Dt.p = Σб.m - Dt.CI.
The most accurate Dt.p determined by the calculation of Dt.p = Dt.p - DS.about.W (76); JS.about.W = 0,4 SSH + 2,4 (where 2,4 - constant number). Then Dt.p = Dt.n - (0,4 SSH + 2,4). For example 50 size medium fullness DSH.about.W = 0.4 + 2.4 GHz = 0.4 x 20,5 to + 2.4 = 10.6 cm; if Dt.p = 55,6, Dt.p = 55,6 + 10,6 = 45, see Change from size to size is ±0.2 see
10 (31) - width shoulder slope of SHP with simultaneous determination of the length of the sleeve Others; the measurement intended to determine the line length of the shoulder seam of the back and shelves, as well as the length of the sleeves Etc.;
11 (28) - circumference shoulder Op; the measurement is intended to determine the width of the sleeve at the level of the chest line;
12 (39) - the height of the openings behind the CDF.s; the measurement is intended to determine the level of the chest line of the back;
13 (41) - height shoulder oblique EP.it is a measurement used to determine the position of the line of the shoulder cut of the back. More accurately the position of the line of the shoulder cut is determined by the Merk EAP.Ki, which take off from the same point on the waist line of the back, and the measure Dt.CI to the shoulder points on the right and left sides of the figure.
14 - height of a barrel, the world Bank; the measure is removed from the top of the line, is applied to the axilla, to the waist line; the dimension of VB is for the same as the dimension 12 (39) the CDF.z;
15 (38) - the length of the arc through the highest point of the shoulder joint DP; the measurement is intended to determine the height of the armhole backrest and shelves.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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