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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§2. The construction Raglan sleeves


To determine the direction of the upper center line of the sleeve from point 22 (see Fig. 57, a) of radius А22П31 hold arc and point П31 arc delay of 1.75 cm (point П32). From the point П32 radius equal to the difference between the width of the back halves of the sleeve under the armhole, and half the width of the openings (Sruk.z - 0.5 x 20.5 = 26 - 10,2 = 15,8 cm), carry out an arc to the right. From the point P11 is carried out straight tangent to the arc through which lay the sleeve length П11М0 = 64, see
 noteAllowance for rabotku to the length of the sleeves lay in the hem of the bottom of the sleeves.
From the point П32 to spend П11М0 line perpendicular (point P 30). From point P 30 down straight П11М0 lay cut П30О = Г11П31. Cut П11О determines the height of the top part of the sleeve.
The level of the elbow determines the length of П11Л = 0.5 Druk + 5 = 0.5 x 64 + 5 = 37 see
Of the points O, L, M0 raise perpendiculars to a straight П11М0 and from the points O, L and M0 delay line segments that define the width of the rear halves of the sleeve under the armhole, i.e. OO1 = 26 cm; the width of the rear halves of the sleeve at the level of the elbow, i.e., LL1 = OO1 - 1 = 26 - 1 = 25 cm.
From the point M0 to the right lay the cut М0М = 2 refer to Points M and L connect a smooth line. The width of the bottom of the sleeves aside from the point M to the left, i.e. MM1 = 21 see the Points O1 and L1 connect a straight line.
The length of the elbow tuck aside from the point L1 to the right, i.e. Л1Л0 = 8...10 cm.
To determine the solution of the tuck line LL1 is divided in half and put a point Л01. From point M carried out an arc to the left with a radius equal to the width of the bottom of the rear halves of the sleeve, the second arc is carried out from the point Л01 radius Л01М. At the intersection of the arcs put a point M2. From the point M2 make the notch radius LM on a straight line connecting the point M2 and L1, and the intersection of dot 11. Points 11 and Л0 connect direct. Cut Л1Л11 determines the solution of the elbow tuck. The deflection of the bottom of the sleeves М01М02 = 0.75 cm
To build the crown back half sleeve П32 point O1 and connect with a straight line. In the middle of the straight П32О1 dot S2~. On the perpendicular from the point to C21 straight П32О1 lay cut С21С31 = С2С3. The line of the crown is carried through the points A22, C1, П32, C31 and O1.
The line of the shoulder cut smoothly connect with the midline of the sleeve, falling away from the point P11 down to 0.75 cm throughout the length of the crown and on the site А21А22 given seam.
To determine the direction top of the middle line of the front halves of the sleeves (Fig. 57, b) from point A42 radius А42П6 hold the arc to the right and lay cut П61П62 = 2 cm From point П62 radius equal to the difference between the width of the front halves of the sleeve under the armhole, and half the width of the openings (Sruk.p - 0,5 x 20.5 = 24 - 10,2 = 13.8 cm), carry out an arc to the left. From point P50 is carried tangent to the arc through which the point-P50 postpone П50М40 sleeve length = 64 cm
From the point П62 to raise up П50М40 line perpendicular (point П60). From the point Пб0 down in a straight line П50М40 lay cut П60О2 = Г4П61. Cut П50О2 also determined by the segment П11О (П50О2 = П11О).
The level of the elbow determines the length of П50Л20 = 0.5 x 64 + 5 = 37 see From the points O2, L20 M40 and raise a perpendicular to the line П50М40 and from point O2 delaying the cut that determines the width of the front halves of the sleeve under the armhole (О2О3 = 24 cm). From point O3 draw down at right angles to the line О2О3 and at the intersection with the perpendicular from the point to put points M40 M3. From this point on the straight МзМ4ц postpone the cut that determines the width of the bottom of the front halves of the sleeves М3М4 = 19 cm
From the point of L20 through the elbow to the right lay 1/3 М4М40 and put a point L2. Middle line of a sleeve is carried out smoothly, combining the line of the shoulder cut to the middle line, departing from the point of the P50 was down 1 cm, through the points A41, П60, O2, N2 and M4. The deflection of the bottom of the sleeves in the middle М31МЗ2 = 0.75 cm
To create a front roll by the wire front-cut sleeve line О3М3 reduce by 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. МЗМ30 = 1...1.5 cm Deflection of the front cut on the elbow Л3Л4 = 1,5 - 2 see the Line of the front cut is carried out a smooth curve through the points O3, L4 and M30.
To build the top part of the front halves of the sleeves point П62 O3 and connect direct. In the middle of the straight П62О3 dot C61. On the perpendicular from a point to a straight C61 П62О3 lay cut С61С71 = С6С7. The line of the crown is carried through the points A42, C4 point to the left by 1 cm, П62, С71 and O3. Throughout the length of the line of the crown is given to the seam allowance.
 


The convexity of the blades is achieved wet-heat treatment of the armhole and fit the top part of the sleeve is determined by the cut УУ1 (Fig. 58) located on the portion of the neck of the back, at the intersection of the armscye curve with the horizontal line drawn from the point A, and direct А0А1. If you want to increase the degree of the wet-heat treatment, the line of openings and crown continue up, past the point A22, cut А22А23, the value of which usually does not exceed 1 cm Point A23 connect a smooth line with points A21 and A0. In addition to creating a bulge on the blades projecting a tuck at the armhole line from point A22 down.Solution tuck, is equal to 1 cm, lay to the left of point A22 neckline backless; length tuck 9 - 10 cm Planting openings and lifts the sleeve on the shelf 1 cm. So if you move the shoulder cut on the back up 1 cm of the shoulder cut on the shelf left unchanged. If you need additional machining openings, and okata, their increase for a period А42А43 = 0,7...1 cm From the point A43 hold a smooth line, passing in a curved neckline.
  The three-seam construction Raglan sleeves on the basis of the double seam Raglan sleeves.On the front half sleeve building line of the front roll. Points П62 and M31 (see Fig. 57, b) direct connect. On the elbow, make a deflection of 1 - 1.5 cm.
Front cut the front top half sleeve building to the right of the line of front roll at a distance of 4 cm parallel to it. On the rear half of the sleeves (see Fig. 57, a) determine the position of the elbow of the cut back upper halves of the flow sleeve. It is located on the line OO1 to the right of point O1 at a distance of 1/4ОО1; on the line of the elbow to the right of point L1 at a distance of 1/4ОО1 - 0.5 cm; bottom line to the right of the point M2 at a distance of 1/4ОО1 - 1.5 cm.
The lower half of the sleeve consists of two parts: one on the front right half of the front cut of the flow sleeve, the second on the back half left from the line of cut flow-elbow sleeves. Both parts of the sum of the lower half of three-seam Raglan sleeves. To build define the front section, which is 2 cm to the left of the line of front roll. Section of the top part of the sleeve П62О3 (see Fig. 57, b) projecting to the left from the line of the front roll, which are building the top part of the lower halves of the sleeves. The bottom line is the bottom halves of the sleeve are building on the continued cut М32М4.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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