The jacket is single breasted with single-button closure. Turn-down collar. Shelves with one top and two side pockets. Vtachnoy sleeve double seam. Shoulder line straight and the lapels are medium width (Fig. 15). Size 176 - 100 - 82 the completeness of the first, fabric suiting.
Dimensions (measurements) for the preliminary calculation of the design, see:

SSH = 20,3 Dt.p = 55,8, PD = 64
SG = 50 Loop = 20,5 Op = 31,7
St = 41 Dt.s = 45,7 CDF.s = 20,9 = 21
SB = 50,5 Di = 78 DP = 35,9 = 36
SHG = 18,9 = 19 NR = 15,6

Allowances for free customized fit, see:

PG = PD Of 5.7.t.s = 1
PT = 4,5 PD.t.n = 1,4
Pb = 2,5 - 3 PN.throats.C = 1,5
PS.PR = 3.p = 9

The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the width of the back is 20.5; chest width - 19; to the width of the area of the openings - 50 - (20,5 + 19) = 10,5.
The width of the sleeve under the armhole
SROC = (Op.p)/2 = (31,7 + 9)/2 = 20,3 see
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in the sections cm: width of backrest - 1,2; to the area of the openings is 4; the width of the breast is 0.5.
Thus, the width of the plots in the drawing, taking into account allowances for seams, see: back width 20,5 + 1,2 + 1 = 22,7; width openings 10,5 + 4 + 1,5 = 16; width of chest 19 + 0,5 + 1 = 20.5 cm.
Calculation of posture OS = Dt.p - Dt.with.
Dt.p = Dt.n - (0,4 SSH + 2,4) = 55,8 - (0.4 x 20,3 + 2,4) = 55,8 - 10,5 = 45,3 see
The design of the jacket, adjacent silhouette allowance at the waist line is distributed for each tuck.
The amount of solutions tucks (front, side, and side seam) Σв = (SG + PG) - (St + PT) = (50 + 5,7) - (41 + 4,5) = 10,2 see
If the design you are designing an abstraction of the barrel on the chest, in this case, the amount of solutions tucks include the diversion of barrel (size of the segment Г41Г42 = 3 cm), i.e. Σв = 10,2 + 3 = 13,2 cm
The deflection of the middle line of the back of the jacket, adjacent silhouette ТТ1 = 3, see Allocating the midline of the back at the level of the chest line ГГ10 = 1,2, see the difference between the trough and diverting ТТ1 - ГГ10 = 3 - 1,2 = 1,8 cm
The sum of the solutions of Darts you subtract the difference of 13.2 - 1,8 = 11,4 cm This value is distributed into three Darts:
solution front tuck 0.2 x 11,4 = 2.3 cm;
solution side tuck 0,3 x 11.4 = 3.4 cm;
solution tuck into the side seam of 0.5 x 11.4 = 5.7 cm
  features of construction of the back of the jacket, adjacent silhouette (see Fig. 15, a). As mentioned above, the deflection of the middle line of the back of this jacket ТТ1 = 3 cm Retraction of the middle line at the bottom НН1 = 3.5 cm
The width of the back General allowance aside from the points G10 and Г11Г11 = 23,7 cm; AA = 23,7 cm
To determine the position of the point D2 from the point G11 to the right lay the cut Г11Г2 = PDS 0,5 = 0,5 x 14.5 = 7,2 cm to the Right from point lay G11 0.5 cm (point G5). From point G5 down to the waist line drop the perpendicular (point T21) .
To the left from point lay T21 cut Т21Т2 equal to half of the solution tucks into the side seam Т21Т2 = 0,5 x 5.7 = 2.8 cm
The width of the back at the level of the hip line determine delay from point B1 cut Б1Б2 = Т1Т2 + 0.5 cm.
Side cut backless conducted through G5, T2, B2.
  Features of construction of the shelves of the jacket, adjacent silhouette(see Fig. 15, b). Width of shelves (breast) Г3Г4 = A1A2 = 20.5 cm.
The highest point of the breast at the chest line is determined, delaying the left from the point G3 cut Г3Г6 = 0,5ГЗГ4 + 1 = 0.5 x 20,5 + 1 = 11,2 cm Width of the openings designated lay sideways to the left from the point G4.
Г4Г41 = 3.5 cm; Г41Г42 = 3 cm (retraction barrel); Г42Г5 = SG 0,25 - 0,5 = 0,25 x 50 - 0,5 = 12 cm.
If the width of the openings in the design is minimal (less than the normal width of the openings of 0.5 cm), the width of the barrel on the chest is also reduced by 0.5 cm and is calculated by the formula SG 0,25 - 0,5.
The width of the shelves on the hip line lay from the point B8 to the left:
Б3Б8 = (SB + Pb + PN + retraction barrel) - Б1Б2 = (50,5 + 3 + 2,5 + 0,5) - 19,5 = 50,5 + 6 - 19,5 = 37 see
From point G5 (on the shelf) drop the perpendicular down to the waist line (point T3). From the point T3 to the right lay one half of the solution tucks into the side seam Т3Т31 = 0,5 x 5.7 = 2.8 cm
The highest point of the chest is determined on the perpendicular drawn from the point G6 (center of chest on the chest), Г6Г7 = PS.PR = 3 cm.
Suteki angle determines the length of Г8Г81 = 0,05Г3Г4 = 0,05 x 20.5 = 1 cm.
The width of the neck shelves aside from the point A3 to the left:
А3А4 = Shorl.+ 1 = A1 + 1 = 8,2 + 1 = 9,2 cm
From point T4 on the balance sheet line the shelves lay cut
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 3.4 cm;
Dt.p = Dt.n - (0,4 SSH + 2,4) = 55,8 - 10,5 = 45,3 cm
To build the neck shelves is determined:
the depth of the neck А41А5 = 0,4 SSH = 0.4 x 20,3 = 8.1 cm;
auxiliary point A60: А5А60 = 0,25А41А5 + 0,5 = 2,5 cm
The point A6 is determined by the segment А4А5: А3А6 = А4А5 + 2.5 cm.
The height of the openings Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 4,2 = 0.5 x 36 + 4,2 = 22,2 cm
The length of the shoulder cut А41П50 = 15,6 + 1 = 16,6 cm
To build the openings determine the position of auxiliary points G2, 2, L6, 3, 4. The control point P7 to connect the sleeve with the armhole is determined, aside from the point L6 down through the openings 2 cm.
To build a lateral pocket having an inclined position from a point T7 down the line а2Т7 lay Т7К = 0,25 Dt.with a 4.5 = 0.25 x 45,3 - 4.5 V = 7 cm To determine the slope of the pocket from the point T8 down the line of prosanos lay cut Т8К0 = 0,5Т7К = 0.5 x 7 = 3.5 cm Through the points K0 and draw where you build a line of pocket.
The length of the line slit pocket determine the rate of 0.2 SG + 5,5 = 0.2 x 50 + 5,5 = 15.5 cm; KK1 = 15,5/2 + 1,5 = 9,2 cm
To build the top pocket of the leaflets from the point G4 to the right on the chest lay 4 cm (dot K31). From the point K31 right on the chest lay 10.5 cm (point K41). Through the point K41 is carried out perpendicular to the line Г3Г4. From the point K41 lay down К41К4 = 1.2 cm К31К4 Line defines the line of primaqiune leaves. The width of the leaves lay points K31 and K4. In our example, the width of the leaves 2 cm.
Cut line front tuck from a point K1 to the left half of the solution front tuck on the line of the pocket, adding 0.5 - 1 cm (point K10). Tuck sides equal in length. To do this, from the point K11 spend a horizontal line to the left side of the tuck (dot K12).
To build a detachable barrel from point Г41 is carried out vertical to the line of bottom and the intersection of waist line put a point T5; with the line of the pocket - point K5; hips - B4; bottom line - Н31.
Abstraction barrel Г41Г42 = 3 see Point Г42 and K5 connect a straight line and at its intersection with the waist line put a point T6.
To determine the deflection of a lateral tuck in the waist from the solution side tuck (3.4 cm) cut Т5Т6 subtracted and the difference divided in half, aside from the points T5 and T6 to the right and left (respectively point Kzt51. and Kzt61).
From the point Н31 right lay 1 cm (point H'31). A line inside of the cut barrel is carried out through Г42 and Kzt61, slightly to the left of the point K5 (to the point N'31) and at its intersection with the line of the hips put a point B5.
To construct a line inland of the cut shelves from point K12 (bottom left side of the tuck) is carried out in parallel straight lines of the side pocket К1К2 to the intersection with the vertical from point Г41 (location K6). From the point K5 to the right of the line pocket lay the cut is equal to the solution front tuck К11К12 on the line of the pocket and put the point of the K60, which is carried out vertical to the bottom line and its intersection with the line of the hips put a point B7. Right from the point B5 lay 0.5 - 0.7 cm (point B6).
The inner section of shelves is performed through the point Г41, Kzt51. K6, K60, B6, H'31.
  Build the sides and lapel single breasted jacket with single-button closure. In such suits (see Fig. 15, b) the position loop outline at the level of the waist or below the 1 cm level hinges on the distance of the width side (3 - 3.5 cm) dot L.
To build the neck angle to determine its depth. From the point A41 down the line А41Т4 lay 0,4 SSH (point A5); point A3 down the line А3Г81 lay cut А3А6 equal А4А5 plus allowance for the deepening of the neck (0 - 2.5 cm depending on the fashion). In our example А3А6 = А4А5 + 2 see
From point A5 up delay 0,25А41А5 + 0.5 cm (dot A60). When you build the neck angle cut А5А60 may be increased by 2 see Point A60 and A6, A41 and L connect direct, and on their crossing put a point F0. The neck angle is carried out through the points A41, F0 and A6. On the continuation of the shoulder line to the right lay 2 cm (point h); connecting the point W and L, determine the position of the crease line of the lapel. At the intersection of the line of the neck put a point F. On the perpendicular to the line FL lay the width of the lapel. At the intersection of this line with the line ФА6, continue to the right, put a point L2.The width of the ledge Л2А61 = 4.5 cm Point L and L2 connect direct. The deflection of the mid moderate (0.5 - 0.7 cm).
To build the edge of the Board from the bottom loop down (point L) parallel to the line of prosanos perform live at a distance of 2/3 the length of the segment Т8Б8 and put a dot b. On the bisector of the angle with vertex at point N5 lay 3 cm (point Н54). Board edge from point b through point hold Н54, crossing the line of the bottom N З2Н5 at the point Н51, and then parallel to the line of the bottom at a distance from it of 3 cm (point Н53). The distance between the points Н51 and Н53 straight 1 - 3 cm From point Н5З up is carried out vertical to the intersection with the bottom line НЗ2Н5 (dot Н55).

  Construction features single-breasted jacket with zipper on three buttons. In these suits (Fig. 16) the position of the lower buttons are scheduled, usually at the level of the slot pocket (if the jackets cropped) and at the level of the lower edge of the valve (if the jackets slightly elongated). The distance between the hinges 7 - 10 see

To build the edge of the Board and bottom line from point L down parallel to the line of prosanos draw to the level of the hip line (point b). On the bisector of the angle with vertex at point N5 lay 3 cm (point Н54). The edge of a Board from the level of the point b is carried out through the point Н54, crossing the line bottom at the point Н51, and then parallel to the line of the bottom at a distance from it of 3 cm (point Н5З).
In the drawing, the shelf angle sutysky on Board transferred to a tuck in the neckline.
A complete translation of the angle sutysky to tuck in the mouth produce after you build a corner suteki and neck.
At the mouth of the shelves from the point F0 to the right lay 2.5 cm (point Ф01). Through G7, and Ф01 spend straight to the top horizontal (point a'3). From the point G7 radius Г7Г8 hold the arc and its intersection with a line Ф01Г7 put a point F1. From the point F1 to the right along the chord of the arc lay cut Г8Г81 (angle suteki) and put a point F2. Through G7 and F2 is carried out straight until the intersection with the line of the neck (point F02) and to the upper horizontal line (point a'1). Cut Ф01Ф02 determines the solution of the Darts in the neck. The length of the Darts shall be such that the lower end of the Darts were covered with lapel.This lapel design on the shelf.
From the point L2 is carried out perpendicular to the fold line of the lapel PLN (point O). From a point On the continuation of the perpendicular segment to the left lay the OL'2 = ОЛ2. Points L'2 and L connect a smooth line.
Designing a tuck in the neck, increase the width of the lapel, defining the position of its vertices (point 21), which is at the intersection of two arcs (radius Ф01Л2 from point F02 and radius ЛЛ2 from point L).

In Fig. 17 and shows another way of building a tuck in the neckline. Tuck is built parallel to the corner suteki а1Г81А3. From point G'7, located in the middle of the line angle suteki Г7Г81, carried out vertical to the top horizontal (point a'1). At the intersection of the neckline dot Ф01. To the left of point a'1 lay cut 1А'S equal to the solution of 1А3, point A'3 and R'7 connect direct. At the intersection of the line of the neck put a point F02. The length of the tuck is determined by the cut of G 7Ф02.
Tuck in the neck can also be built along the fold of the lapel (Fig. 17, b). The point f located at the intersection of the fold line of the lapel and neck connect with the point G7. Radius Г7Г81 hold the arc and its intersection with a straight ФГ7 put a point F1. From this point to the right lay the cut is equal to Г8Г81, and put a point F2. Through G7 and F2 hold directly to the neckline (point F02). From the point F02 along the line of the lapel to the line Г7Г81 (point G'7) conduct a right side tuck; left side tuck get by connecting the points f and R'7 with a straight line.

  Jacket double breasted straight front without Darts with a single-button closure. The shelf of this jacket build, translating the solution front tuck in the side. A vertical line а2Т7 (Fig. 18) continue down to the intersection with the bottom line (point НЗ1). From the received point to the left lay 2 cm and put a point НЗ2. The inner section of shelves is performed through the point Г41, T7 and НЗ2. At the intersection of the hip line to put points Б71. The deflection line Г41Г7 right in the middle of the 0.5 cm deflection line Т7Б71 left in the middle of 0,2 cm

The splaying of the barrel on the chest Г41Г42 = 2.5 cm Solution side tuck on the waist line Т5Т7 = 4 see the position of the inner barrel cut on the hip line Б71Б4 = 1 sm slice the barrel is carried out through Г42, T5, B4, N32. The deflection line Г42Т5 left in the middle of the 0.3 - 0.5 cm; lateral deflection of the barrel cut on the waist line 1.5 - 2 cm
  Main difference between double-breasted coat from single breasted is to build the sides and lapel.
The distance between the line polutanata and the edge of the Board in double-breasted jackets 6 - 8 cm (depending on model). The position of the hinges in double-breasted jackets depends on the style and demands of fashion. By lengthening the lapel, the position of the upper loop moves down. The distance between the hinges 8 - 12 see
In a double-breasted jacket with single-button closure loop is located at the front end of the side pocket (see Fig. 18). In double-breasted suits with two-button placket bottom loop feature at the level of the front end side of the pocket or slightly lower, and the upper loop 1 cm below the waist line (Fig. 19) .

To build lapel double breasted jacket determine the line of its bend. On edge of a Board at the top of the loop, put the point L. From point A41 to the right lay the cut А41з = Stoiki - 0,5 = 2,5 - 0,5 = 2 cm.
Through the points L and z hold a line that intersects with the line of the neck at point F. Line LF determines the position of the bend of the lapel. On a straight line perpendicular to this line, lay the width of the lapel. At the intersection of this line with the line ФА6, continue to the right, put a point L2. The points L and L2 connect. Line the outer edge of the lapel is carried out by deflection from the middle of the straight ЛЛ2 0.5 - 0.7 cm, depending on fashion this deflection may increase.Up from point L2 on the continuation curved line ЛЛ2 lay cut Л2ЛЗ that defines the slope of the ledge lapel А61Л3, which depends on the chosen model. In our example, the length of the segment Л2Л3 = 5 cm the width of the ledge lapel А61Л3 also set in accordance with the model (in our example А61Л3 = 5 cm). The position of the point of the ledge lapel A61 depends on the length rascepa (can be combined with point A6, to be left or right of it). The point of the ledge lapel A6 in products with zipper top should be aligned with the point A6.
At the edge of a Board at the bottom of the loop, put the point L1. From this point the line of the edge of the Board to continue down parallel to the line of prosanos to the intersection with the bottom line drawn from the point H5 to the right (point Н52) . Cut Н5Н52 determines the width of the side, taking into account seam allowance on primaqiune of podborta and trimming. The bottom line is the Board Н5Н52 continue to the left, and from point lay N5 Н5Н51 cut that determines the width of the Board. Point Н51 and D3 connect by a straight line and make the deflection in the middle of 0,2 cm
If the shelf is constructed with a cutting sideways, the bottom line is get to connect the dots Н51 and N33 with a smooth curve.