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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§2. The features of the blouson

Blouson sport type (Fig. 68) of mantle tissue, closure with a stitched placket with six buttons, a stand-up collar-fold-over. Shelf with detachable yoke, under the yoke assemblies on the shelves top and lower pockets with leaves. Backrest with a detachable yoke, waist cinch the rubber band, under the yoke of the Assembly. Sleeve shirt type straight with cuff. At the bottom of the garment - stitched belt. 
Allowances for free customized fit, see: 
PG = 9 PD.t.s = 1 
PH = 12 PD.t.p = 0,5 
IB = 3,5 PH.throats.s = 1,5 
PS.PR = W.p = 11
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in the sections cm: width of openings - 5 (55% PG); the width of the back and 2.2 (25% PG); 
the width of the shelves is 1.8 (20%PG). 
Developing the product design, should pay attention to the nature tissue. If the fabric is not amenable to wet-heat treatment in construction provide the equivalent.
The design of blouson middle line of back building in a straight line, pushing her waist by 1 cm, ie ТТ1 = 1, see yoke, and the building of the line АУ1 (solid). Stojko armhole replace tuck: П31П32 = 1...1.5 cm Increase in the length of the bottom side bust Darts 1.5 cm (П32П33) provides for the creation of assemblies, under the yoke in accordance with the design model.
Location of Basque defined segments: АУ1 = 5 cm; П1П31 = 5.5 cm Movement the shoulder cut down: А2А21 = 1.7 cm; П1П11 = 1.5 cm For ease processing technologies blouson shirt sleeve line side of the slice move to the middle of the openings, i.e. Г11Г2 = PDS/2. 
From the point G2 performed vertical down, and at its intersection with the horizontal, held from the H-point (B), put a dot Н31; waist point T3. From the point T3 to the left lay 1 cm (point T2).
For the construction side of the slice back point G2 and T2 connect by a straight line. From point T2 is carried out vertical down and on the line crossing the bottom of the back put a point of H2. The width of the belt across the bottom 4 cm 
To build shelves corner sutysky not build. Retraction of the neck shelves а1А3 = 0...0.5 cm Width of the neck А3А41 = AA1. Balance shelves Т4А41 = Dt.p + 2.5 cm 
Displacement of the shoulder cut up: А41А42 = 1.7 cm; П50П5 = 1.5 cm. 
The position of the line of coquette from the points P50 and A41 is determined by the segments: А41А42 = 4 cm; П50П61 = 3 cm Solution Darts at the line of openings П61П62 = 0,7 cm.
Increasing the length of the bottom side bust Darts 1.2 cm (П62П63) provides for the creation of assemblies, under the yoke in accordance with the plan model. 
Side cut shelves on the chest Г4Г2 = PDS/2. 
From the point T3 to the right lay 1 cm (point T31). From the point T31 in the vertical lay cut Т31Н3 = Т2Н2. 
To build lateral leaflets determine the position of the point K71. 
Т7К71 = Т4Т7/2 - 0.5 cm.
From the point K71 restore the perpendicular. N32 from a point located on the intersection of a vertical from point A2 with the horizontal from point H4, lay up 9.5 cm (point K2). Cut Н32К2 determines the depth pocket. From the point K2, make a notch on the perpendicular drawn from point K71 of radius equal to the length of the leaves (point K1). The length and width the leaves determined in accordance with the model. Upper leaf a point G4 at a distance of 0,25Г3Г4 - 1.5 cm (point K3). The length of the leaves determines the length of К3К4. The slope of the line of primaqiunethe leaflets define, putting the point up and K3 point K4 down 0.5 see
The bar a to the left of the line of prosanos 1/2 of its width (line А61Н51). The top button feature from the top slice by line polutanata at a distance of 1.5 cm, bottom button have at the middle of the belt line polutanata. 

LABORATORY and PRACTICAL WORK 11 

V a R I a n t 1. To develop a blouson to a specific shape sleeve casual shirt. 

V a R I a n t 2. To develop a blouson to a specific shape with a warm lining and a hood.

To make the layouts and check the fit in the figure. To perform quality executed design. Pay attention to the balance of the product.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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