§ 2. THE TYPES OF VESTS

 The vest is single-breasted. In the drawing the basics of the vest (see Fig. 83, a) from the point N5 horizontally to the left lay 3 to 4 cm and put a point Н51. Point Н51 and H3 connect the auxiliary line. Line mid-front tuck, passing through the point T71, continue down to the intersection with the line Н51НЗ at the point Н31. From the point Н31 lay up 1 cm (point НЗ2). From the point НЗ2 left and right horizontal delay by half of the solution front tuck on the waist line. Plotting points connect smooth lines with points H3 and Н51.
When you build the vest determine the height of the tank in the drawing. If you set the height of the neckline of the vest of Explosives.W = 23 cm, in the drawing from point A42 radius equal to BB.W + 1.5 cm, make a notch in the line of prosanos and put a point Г31(А42Г31 = 23 at + 1.5 = 24.5 cm). Line tank А2Г31 continue down to the intersection with the edge side at point L. the Width of the bead is 2.5 cm Through the points Н51 and H4 hold the line to the intersection with the rim at the point L1.
Top loop features at the level of the point L, the lower - level point L1. To determine the distance between the hinges cut LL1 is divided into number equal to the number of loops minus one.
Example. LL1 = 22 cm Number of loops 5. The distance between the hinges 22/4 = 5.5 cm 
  double-breasted Waistcoat. Drawing double-breasted vest, are based on drawing single breasted vest. Elongation line polutanata Н4Н5 = 3 cm (Fig. 83, b). The width of polutanata double-breasted vest, the upper loop - 7 cm, bottom 6 cm Width and shape of the lapel are performing in accordance with the model.
The height of the tank is determined on the drawing, putting the A42 from a point cut, equal to LC.W + 1,5 (dot ГЗ1). The line of the cut carried out through the points A42 Г31 and continuing it down to the intersection with the edge side at point L.
From the point H5 to the right horizontally lay 6 cm (point Н52). Point L and Н52 connect with a straight line. From the point H5 to the left horizontally lay 5 cm (point Н52). Point Н51 and N3 connect with a straight line.
The upper loop is located at the point L; bottom 0.5 cm below the line НЗН4.
  Vest frachnyh. Feature frachnogo vest is that the height of the tank increases. The principle of construction frachnogo vest corresponds to the construction of single-breasted vest. Lapels can have a different shape and length depending on the style (Fig. 83,). To build polutanata with the shoulder end of the neck of the vest is in the line of prosanos (dot Л0). Point Л0 is the point of the ledge, which is determined by the width of prosanos. In our example Л0Л = 2, see

§ 3. THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE VEST ON THE BASIS OF THE JACKET

To build edge the sides of the vest to hold the line of prosanos located parallel to the line of prosanos the basics of jacket, 1.5 - 2 cm to the left. The width of polutanata vest in equal 2 - 2.5 cm (Fig. 83, g). The line of tank build, aside from the point A41 on the neckline and down 2 cm (point a'41). From the point P5 on the line of the shoulder to the right lay the cut П5П51 = А41П5/2 - 1 cm and put a point П51.
From the point П51 at a right angle to the line П5П51 draw down where you lay the cut П51П'5 = 3 cm Pb point horizontally to the right lay the cut П6П61 = 0,2ГЗГ4. From the point Г41 lay down 2.5 cm and put a point G'41. Through point P'5 and A'41 make a direct. From point A'41 to the right lay 1.2 cm and put a point A42. Cut А42П'5 defines a shoulder cut shelves vest.
Underarm hold a smooth line through the points P'5, Пб1 and R'41.
The length of the shelves of the vest from the waist line polutanata determined from the point T8. Т8Н5 = 14 cm; Н5Н4 = 5.5 cm.
Cut the side shelves of the vest coincides with the right side lateral tuck shelves of the jacket which passes through the points G'41, Kzt51. and K5. On continuation of the line Т51К5 down from point lay K5 0.7 cm and put a point K52. From the point N5 horizontally to the left lay 3 to 4 cm and put a point Н51. Point Н51 K52 and connect auxiliary line.
To build a front tuck determine the position of the point Н31.
Н51Н31 = Н51К52/3 - 0.5 cm.
From the point НЗ1 spend the vertical up where you build the front tuck, НЗ1НЗ2 = 1 cm.
The middle line of the back of the vest building on the middle line of the back of the jacket. From point T1 vertically down lay 8 - 10 cm and put a point N'1.
The additional deflection at the waist Т1Т'1 = 0.5 cm Retraction of the middle line of the back of the vest on the midpoint of the segment T1 N'1: N 11Н11 = 0.3 cm. Retraction of the point N'1 horizontally to the right lay the cut 1Н12 N = 2 see the Width of the back is determined at the chest line passing through the points G'10 and G'3.
10Г5 g = (SG + PG + PN) - G '3G'41.
From point A2 at the shoulder line to the right lay the width of the shoulder:
А2П'2 = А42П'5 + 0.5 cm.
From a point P'2 on the straight line perpendicular to the line А2П1, lay down cut N 2P'1 = 1.5 cm Point A2 and P'1 connect a straight line. To build the armhole from point P3 to the left lay the cut П3П31 = Г10Г11/4. Down from point lay Г42 cut Г42Г'42 = Г41Г'41.
Underarm hold a smooth line through the points P'1, П31, G5 and G'42. The point of G5 is moved up to the level of the point G'42 and put a point G'5. Point G'5 connect a smooth line with the armhole.
Through the point d'5 conduct vertical down, and at the intersection with the waist line put a point T3. From that point on the lay down vertical cut Т3Н2 = Т51К52 + 0.5 cm Deflection on the waist line Т2Т3 = 1, see lower Line passes through the points H12 and H2. For building tuck point-G11 horizontally to the left lay 3 cm and put the point of the G20. Through this point the vertical hold down where you build a tuck. Depending on the style tuck position may change.

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 14

To develop the design of vests. To make models. To check the fit. To analyze the results.