Individual tailoring of a shelf, usually build after you back, but you can reverse the build sequence.
To build shelves, build a right angle with the vertex at point A1 (see Fig. 5). Down vertically from point A1 to consistently lay lines drawing back, define the levels of the chest, waist, hips and bottom: а1ГЗ = AG; а1Т8 = at; Т8Б8 = TB; а1Н4 = an. From points A1, T3, T8, G8 and H4 is carried out to the left horizontally.
  The width of the shelves lay to the left horizontally from the points A1 and G3 (ГЗГ4 = A1A2) .
  The width of the openings diverting a barrel in the drawing the shelves in the chest line is determined by the cut Г4Г5 = PDS + solution side tuck - Г11Г5.
  The width of the shelves on the level of the hip line Б8БЗ determine the rate of Б8Б3 = (SB+ Pb + Psov) - Б1Б2,
where SB - poluobhvat hips; Pb - allowance to the poluobhvat hips; Pshow - allowance at the side seams.
  The side cut of the shelves is determined at the chest point G5, on the waist line - point ТЗ1 on the hip line - the point B3 on the line of the bottom - point of N3.
To build the line side of the slice shelves point G5 and B3 connect the auxiliary line, which crosses the waist line at point T3. From this point horizontally to the right lay 1 - 1.5 cm to create deflection lines of the side of the slice and put a point ТЗ1. Point ТЗ1 and G5 direct connect and its continuation from the point G5 lay cut Г5Г51 equal to the segment of the same name Г5Г51 on the back. Through the points B3 ТЗ1 and draw to the intersection (point N3) with the horizontal line drawn from the point N4. The deflection line Г5ТЗ1 in the middle is equal to 0.5 cm
  Lowering line polutanata а1Н4 from the point H4 is down 2 - 3 cm, i.e. Н4Н5 = 2...3 cm For the lines to the bottom of the points N5 and N3 connect with a straight line. The deflection line Н5НЗ in the middle equal to 0.2, see
  the center of the chest along the chest line is determined by the cut ГЗГ6
ГЗГ6 = 0,5Г3Г4 + 1cm.
The position of the highest point of the chest is determined by the cut Г6Г7 equal to the allowance for freedom of armhole depth of PS.PR.
Г6Г7 = 2,5...3 see
  the Angle suteki build postavlja from point G7 perpendicular to the intersection line polutanata at point G8. Up from this point lay the cut Г8Г81 = 0,05Г3Г4 + 0,5. From the point Г81 raise a perpendicular to a straight Г7Г81, and on crossing it with a horizontal line drawn from the point A1, put the point A3.
  The width of the neck shelves aside from the point A3 to the left А3А4 = А01А1 + 1 see
Through the point A4 is carried out straight parallel lines of polutanata а1Н4, and at its intersection with the waist line put a point T4. From the point T4 in a straight up lay cut Т4А41, which determines the position of the highest point of the neck A41. This point is few techniques.
Using measurements of Dt.p
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 3.4 cm where Dt.p - measurement taken from the figure of the customer; 3.4 cm - the amount of allowances to the length of the waist front (1.4 cm) to reduce the waist line (1 cm) seam (1 cm).
Using measurements of Dt.p
Т4А41 = Dt.n - (0,4 SSH + 2,4) + PD.t.+ PN + PD.t.n = Dt.p - 0,4 SSH - 2,4 + 1 + 1 + 1,4 = Dt.p - 0,4 SSH + 1.
Simplified formula will look like
Т4А41 = Dt.p - 0,4 SSH + 1 see
 

  The balance of the product is the ratio of the levels of the highest point of the back A2 and the highest point of the shelf A41 when flattened in the frontal plane (Fig. 6). As the apex A2 of the neck backless anatomically unreliable is defined on the human figure when designing garments balance it is advisable to consider the difference between the levels of the top of the neckline shelves and the base of the neck backless. The balance can be positive or negative, i.e. the top of the neck shelves can be placed above or below the horizontal base of the neck backless. The balance depends on the posture of the figure.
Cut А4А41 determines the value of balance:
А4А41 = Dt.p - Dt.+ 1 + 1.4 cm, with 1 cm seam allowance to shoulder seam; 1,4 cm seam allowance to the length of waist front.
To determine the balance can be used by merc Dt.p, then
А4А41 = Dt.p - 0,4 Nl + 1 - (Dt.+ PD.t.C) = Dt.p - 0,4 Nl + 1 - Dt.s - 1.
In simplified form, the formula has the form
А4А41 = Dt.p - 0,4 SSH - Dt.with.
  The depth of the neck of shelves determines the length of А41А5 = 0.4 s + fashion.
From point A5 to the right, hold the line, perpendicular line А41А5, to the intersection with the line of prosanos point of AB (see Fig. 5). To draw the neckline from the point A5 lay cut А5А60 = 0,25А41А5 + 0.5 cm.
Point AB A60 and connect auxiliary line. The neckline is drawn as shown in Fig. 5.
  The height of the armhole shelves Г4П4 the first method is determined by the measurement of the arc through the highest point of the shoulder joint DP with the common stock:
Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + PS.PR + Ppl + 1 cm, where PS.ol - 2.5 cm; Ppl (allowance for the thickness of the shoulder pads) - 0.7 cm; 1 cm allowance for the diffraction of the underlying layers of the jacket at the top of the shelves.
In view of the steady constancy of the last three terms, the formula can be simplified:
Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 4.2 cm
The height of the armhole shelves the second way is determined by the height of the armhole of the backrest Г11П2:
Г4П4 = Г11П2 - Pat + 0.5 cm, where Pcut - allowance for Stojko the armhole of the back.
Note. The calculation of the height of the openings of the shelves to produce shapes that do not have deviations from the model.
  The shoulder cut shelves the first method is built on a line drawn through the points A11 and A4. The position of the point P4 is determined in the manner specified above.
А41П50 = SHP + Psov.
In order for flatlock shoulder seam is not distorted, the point of the P50 was reduced by 0.5 - 0.7 cm and put a point P5. Points P5 and P4 connect a smooth convex line, and the points A41 and A4 - concave line.
To build the shoulder cut of the second method determines the position of point P50 in the intersection of two arcs: Dugi A41 from point a radius equal to the width measurement shoulder with the common stock, and dougy from the point T8 of radius equal to measure the height of the shoulder slash in front of VP.to.p plus the total allowance:
А41П50 = SHP + PN = NR+ 1, see
Т8П50 = VP.to.p + PD.t.+ PN+ Ppl + 1 = VP.to.p + 3.5 cm
  Armhole shelves built using a number of auxiliary reference points.
The main reference point Pb is a point located on the line Г4П4: Г4П6 = 0,25Г4П4 + 0,5; point 2 lies on the bisector of the angle with vertex at point G4: G42 = 0,25 PDS - 1,2...1,5; the position of the point G2 is determined from the expression Г4Г2 = 0,5 PDS.
Points P5 and Pb connect direct. Point 3 is determined on the midpoint of the segment П5П6. To the right of point 3 on the perpendicular bisector to the segment П5П6 lay 1 cm (point 4). To the left of the point G5 lay 0.5 cm (point G'5).
The cut G'51' is equal to the segment G111 on the bisector of the angle with vertex at point G11 back. Point Г52 determine, aside from the point G51 right and up 1 cm.
The line of openings is carried out through point P5, 4, Pb, 2, G2, 1' and Г52.
To define the control point connection of the top part of the sleeve with the armhole shelves on the armhole from point Pb lay down 1/3 cut Г4П6 (point P7), i.e. П6П7 = Г4П6/3 = 6/3 = 2 see
note. Stojko armhole shelves, usually not projecting. If the shelves in the chest is molded on presses with special pillows (if you are working on which stuzka on the edge of the openings is inevitable), partially Stojko transferred to the edge of the Board in the armhole. 

  The position of the slit side pockets on the shelf determined on the basis of experience and demands of fashion. Depending on the posture and completeness of side pocket pieces may be located closer or farther from the line of prosanos. Line slit pocket can be routed horizontally, vertically or inclined. In all cases, the side jacket pocket feature below the waist line at a distance equal to 0,25 Dt.with a decrease of 3.5...5.5 cm. the side pocket is determined relative to the point T7, which is located at the intersection of a vertical from point A2 with the horizontal from point T8. Т7К = 0,25 Dt.with a 3.5...5.5 cm.
The length of the slot pocket is determined by the size and type of product from calculation of 0,2 SG + 5 (5,5). The average for the 50 size the length of the pocket is 15.5 cm (±0.3 cm for adjacent dimensions). In mass production the length of the slot pocket is unified: to articles 44 - 48 of the sizes it is equal to 15 cm, 50 - 54 size - 16 cm 56 - 64 size - 17 cm
The entire length of the slot pocket is determined by the cut К1К2. Position the front of the pocket is measured by the length KK1 = 0,5К1К2 + 1...1,5.
Usually line side pocket jacket is built parallel to the bottom line.
To construct a line of inclination of the side pocket point T8 lay down cut, equal Т7К plus 1.5...2 cm (point to r0).
  The position of the slot in the top of the pocket. To determine the position of the upper pocket with leaflets along the chest line to the right of the point G4 delay period Г4К3 = 0,25 Г3Г4 - 1 cm From the point K3 up vertically, lay 1.5 cm (dot K31).
The length of the pocket with leaves equal to the segment К31К4. For 50 size К31К4 = 10.5 cm (±0.3 cm for adjacent dimensions). In mass production the length of the top pocket with leaflets and unified: to articles 44 - 48 of the sizes it is equal to 10 cm, 50 - 54 size - 11 cm and 56 - 62 size - 12 cm.
The front leaves have on the level of the chest or below a 0.5 - 1 cm Wide leaves lay on the verticals drawn from the points K31 and K4 (usually it is equal to 2,2 - 2,5 cm). However, depending on the model, the position of the leaves in height and its width can change.
  Tuck in a product without cutting the barrel. The front tuck is so as the lower end was at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm to the left from the front end of the pocket. Line mid-front tuck direct point-To~o up to the balance point of the A41 in the products of dyed fabrics, not bringing it to the chest at 5 - 7 cm of the Solution front tuck on the waist line is 1 - 1.5 cm depending on the degree of fit it can be increased up to 2.5 - 3 cm Length tucks from the waist line up increases.
In products from fabric with a plaid or striped tuck front constructed in such a way that its right side from the top end to the waist line held the common thread, parallel to the line of prosanos.
The position of the right hand side Darts at the breast line and the line of the cut of the pocket is defined by segments Г4Г41 = 3.5 cm and КК5 = 3 cm depending on the fashion or model segments Г4Г41 and КК5 can change.
The average value of the segment Г4Г41 determine the rate of Г4Г41 = 0,25 PDS. Point Г41 and K5 connect the line, which crosses the waist line at point T5. Solution side Darts at the breast line Г41Г42 = 1.5 cm, at the waist - 2 cm (from point T5 to the left and right delay to 1 cm) .
Design side sections of the backrest and shelves, recesses and reliefs straight, convex or concave lines, the amount of deflection of these lines depend on the shape of the product, the degree of fit and demands of fashion.