Manufacturer of apparel with one or two fittings and without fittings. Male shoulder products can be produced both with one and with two fittings. Because the second fitting increases the complexity of tailoring by 10% and the timing of orders, the two fittings is recommended only in the manufacture of the clothing cutters who have little experience, as well as in the manufacture of products on a figure with pronounced deviations from the model Constitution and articles of particularly complex shapes.
  The clothing was made with one fitting. To the fitting perform the following operations: fully-treated side of the gasket parts insulation gaskets (middle or side sections and the side tuck), upper shoulder and other pads; all the chalk lines are laid snares; molded shelves and back through the wet-heat treatment, and finally treated with top pocket and seams structural and decorative lines (recesses, undercuts, reliefs, etc.), when combining shelves with side strip will be closed with a seal; wasteheat lapels; lower handle collar; armholes primetyvajut edge;the handle sleeves front seams; smatyvay and zametyvayut part of the back, side and shoulder seams, elbow-cut sleeves; zametyvayut hem and sleeves; left sleeve in armhole umatyvaet.
In products in the figure pereghibati, stooped, with different height of arms to the fitting umatyvaet two sleeves. In products with zelenolistnye sleeves to the fitting smatyvay the upper and the lower sections of the sleeves.
The lower collar umatyvaet in the neck. In products without a collar in the neck to navigate the edge.
In winter clothes insulated strip primetyvajut to the product, insulating spacer sleeves smatyvay at the elbow sections and connect with sleeves. After matiwane sleeve insulation strip attached to the seam of the armhole. In products with zelenolistnye sleeves insulation strip smatyvay on the top and bottom sections of the sleeve, the gasket connect with the top products, putting the sleeves of the warming pad at the sleeve top
The fitting can also be completely treated and side pockets. Men's pants are made without trying.
  A garment manufacturer with two fittings. Re-fitting is carried out mainly to clarify the correctness of vetiveria sleeveless arm openings. It determines the degree of readiness of the goods to the fitting.
To re-fitting perform the following operations: process tuck, reliefs, folds, yoke, pockets, sides (including vimetco loops) and belt, straps and other finishing details, and rautureau sew side and shoulder seams of the product; process the collar and finally connect it with the neck; dress sleeve and umatyvaet them into the openings. The bottom of the product treated completely.
The degree of readiness of the product for re-acceptance depending on the different physical characteristics of the customer can be changed (e.g., shoulder, and sometimes the side seams may not be processed).
  Making clothes without fittings. Manufacturing orders without fittings requires above all a clear highly qualified the implementation of the main stages of production. If made, the artist-consultant and tailor needs to pay attention to the individual characteristics of shapes customer choice of style, given the fashion trends that are acceptable to a particular figure. The great value has exact measurements, especially the balance sheet, the issuance of the order with a sketch of the product.
Since the cutting products are the standards by using basic patterns or directly on the fabric must be strict adherence to specifications for cutting, given the nature of fabric and its "behavior" in the process.
To run products without fitting, given the individual nature of each order, with a wide variety of models, sizes and materials the most appropriate method of work organization is the brigade method with the number of workers in crew 4 - 9 people with specialization in their activities. Despite the small capacity of the technological process, the team should be equipped with all necessary high-performance equipment.In the maintenance work crews should be provided for the supply of modern adhesive materials for duplication of shelves, coquettes, collars, valves, patch pockets, etc.
Execution of orders without any fittings is impossible without advanced technology and using modern methods of construction using standardized parts, the top, lining, pads, pockets of pants and jackets.
Bespalatnoe the manufacture of clothing, where form and style are resolved immediately after removal of measures, and ultimately saves time of the customer, increases the responsibility and discipline of each work and the team overall, no increase in consumption of materials for the fit of the product on the manufacturer marochnyh jackets, ensure the quality of the product.
Currently in our country, a anthropometric system designed to carry out design studies, including measurement of the shapes in terms of making clothes for individual orders. Its developers are research organizations of Minbyt of the RSFSR, Institute of information transmission problems (IITP) of the USSR and all-Union scientific research Institute of light and textile engineering (VNIILTEKMASH).Conducted research on mathematical and hardware facilities, and developed an effective method of obtaining data describing the shape of a human figure, determines the method of calculation on these data structures (cut) garments on a computer and constructed an experimental model of anthropometric unattended installation.
Currently, a prototype automatic anthropometry.
The system is designed for automated measurement of the human figure, designing the garments and graphics of design details in the manufacture of apparel according to individual orders.
Automated system includes: automatic tangential-belt anthropomor, electronic computer, graphic display, a plotter. Features of the complex are: automated measurement of the shape information output on a computer, processing anthropometric information on a computer, record information about the shape and details of the customer, data entry, machine design products of a given model given the characteristics of the shape of the customer, output information about the design of products ordered in the form of a graphic image parts.
  The technique of fitting the shoulder products (jacket, coat). The goal of fitting is to directly with the customer to clarify the design, especially the correct fit and fit of the product, the location of constructive and decorative lines in accordance with the model, length, width and the length of the parts.
Before proceeding to the fitting, the cutter needs to pay attention to the fact that the customer was not too much clothing, which impedes the fitting. Try, the product must be properly fitted to the figure of the customer. You need to line the middle of the back and polutanata shelves were in a vertical position. The left shelf is applied to the right and attach with a pin.
Fitting should be carried out after a General comprehensive review of the product as a whole. The cutter must determine what are the defects in the product, their cause, ways of elimination.
The sequence of the fittings is determined in each case by the cutter depending on the degree of preparation of the product to the fitting and its design. However, it is most expedient to adhere to the following sequence. First of all, specify the size of the sleeve, its length, width at the top, at the elbow and on the bottom; the position of the bottom of the sleeve relative to the pocket and the combination of control points of the sleeves and the armhole; the balance of the shelves.In this case, spanking collar and slit shoulder seams and teetering shelves so that the lines of polutanata was located strictly in the vertical length of the left floor on right. In this position, the shoulder seams neatly shear off the pins from the neck to the armhole, making sure that the position of the shelves has not changed. At the shoulder seam of the back make proposalso on the shoulder.
After balancing shelves eliminate the defects along the lines of side seams. While traveling up or down the side sections of the backrest. If the backrest moves down, the side sections of the backrest is moved upwards. If the back bottom is adjacent to the legs, the side sections of the backrest is moved down. The amount of movement is determined in a practical way.
After balancing the side sections of the backrest set the position of the hinges, the shape of the line on the sides and collar, the length of the product.
After all this produce oblavka neck, arm openings, and other areas in accordance with perekali.
  The technique of fitting of the model (maroonage jacket). The purpose of fitting the layout shape is finding the right balance of the main parts (back and shelves), specifying their parameters in the region of the shoulder girdle, waist, pockets, length, and shape of the product and in establishing the form of shaped parts (collar, lapels, collars, pockets and other decorative elements). The correct position of the parts in the figure is achieved by changing the length of a graduated tape, connecting the upper (base) part of the layout with the bottom part.
Fit (fitting) worn by the figure of a model (conventional products) starting from the back, stating the level of the waist line in accordance with the height and proportions of the customer and achieving a proper fit the back of the layout behind the figures in all sections. Then find the correct position of the shelves, focusing on the direction of the auxiliary horizontal and vertical lines. Indicators of the nature and extent of the inconsistencies obtained individual design and original base design, which made the layout, recorded on scales of graduated tapes back and shelves layout.
The first stage is the removal of the customer's figure and basic measurements, which include: putting chest third SG; poluobhvat waist St; poluobhvat hips SB; shoulder girth Op. These measurements are removed by hand (using a tape) and recorded in the Appendix to the passport order.
According to the taken measurements (and selected models) from the available set of layouts choose the layout of the desired size, the size is determined mainly by the dimensions of poluobhvat the bust and waist. Sometimes (when significant deviations of measurements of St, SB, Op from measurements of the respective standard shapes), it is advisable to choose the layout related size bust or related fullness.
Layout put on the figure of the customer (in this case enclose a shoulder pad if it is provided for in the basic design), and after specifying the fit at the waist, the shelves on this level connect samosogrevaetsya clasp.
Then a small movement of the layout figure in the region of the shoulder girdle set the required position of the shoulder seam and begin to Refine the landing of the back (its lower part) on both sides of the shape.
Waist line marked on the layout, establish a natural for this shape the place by changing the magnitude of the gap between the yoke and the lower part of the backrest (depending on the length and shape of back and shoulder height) using samosogrevaetsya fasteners. The width of the neck backless also regulate clasp.
Then proceed to the regulation of planting shelves. Waist line marked on the layout, set on a natural venue for this shape and on the same level with the waistline of the back. Doing this, as well as on the back, by changing the magnitude of the gap between the yoke and the bottom of the layout using samosogrevaetsya fasteners. The horizontal waist line checked with the mirrors mounted in the fitting cubicle.
Adjusting the balance of the layout on the shape, and finally specify the degree of conformance of the product at the level of the waist and chest with samosogrevaetsya fasteners located along the line of prosanos, and check the correct Seating layout in the figure the position of the centerline of the barrel and the line of prosanos that should be vertical (vertical), and the slot in the middle seam of the back side of the slots should be vertical (reference line laid on the right side slots, don't have to close the left edge of the slots or to deviate from it).
Make sure the correct planting layout on the figure, determine the degree to which they fit shapes the customer in the shoulder blade and the chest (visually setting the desired width of the backrest and shelves in the narrow place) and at the hip level (set value of discrepancy or entering Nesmachnyi lower sections of the side seams).
Then, in accordance with the size of the layout of the main part of the product and measurement of Op if it is much larger than the typical figure of the same bust, choose a layout sleeve, wear it on the customer, applying or pinning to the layout of the product at the top of the armhole. At the same time specify the length of the shoulder seam. The sleeve length and the product in General is determined, focusing on the control line at the bottom of the sleeve and products. The level of side pockets is determined visually.
Record of all initial data for development of product design individual assignments are made in the application to the passport order, which in addition to the dimensions listed above, SG.sh, St, SB and Op on cosmetic sweeps major parts of the structure record:
size and room layout and set of patterns corresponding to the basic design;
deviation of the lengths of the backrest and shelves to the waist at the respective sites in relation to the original design (according to the testimony of graduated tapes samosogrevaetsya clasps);
change the width of the product at the waist level (reading graduated tape samosogrevaetsya fasteners located along the line of prosanos waist - half size);
change the width of the backrest and shelves in the narrow space and the length of the shoulder seam;
change the width of the backrest and shelves at the hips (on the value of call or discrepancies Nesmachnyi the lower parts of the side seams taking into account the distribution between back and shelf or sideways depending on the individual features of a Constitution and the features of the design);
change the width of the neck (on the testimony of graded fasteners in the middle of the back at the level of the neck - half size);
change height of neck backless;
the nature and thickness of the shoulder pads;
the width of the sleeve under the armhole (in accordance with chosen layout sleeve);
the length of the product and the length of the sleeve;
the level of pocket (relative to projected);
the shape of the edge of the Board, lapel, collar, etc.;
the features of the technological processing.
Measurement values of parameters of original design are taken mostly on the left side of the layout and is written with a plus sign - when you zoom, with the sign "minus" - to decrease.
If the shape is asymmetrical (e.g. uneven shoulders), some of the above characteristics for the right and left sides of the product is different. In such cases, the application to the passport order say a large amount, placing next to it the letter P or L depending on which side (right or left) recorded the highest deviation and indicate the magnitude of difference greater or lesser deviations.