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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§3. Pants type jeans

These pants for many years and are a stable range youth clothes. Trousers from denim fabrics are widely used different types of finishes: metal accessories, zipper, decorative eyelets, button, buttons, emblem, colored stitching, etc.

The design of the pants type of jeans is done on the basis of conventional design with some changes in the construction of the front and rear halves forcreate a silhouette corresponding to the direction of fashion and good landingin the figure. The fit in the hips achieved a minimum wet-heat treatment or without it. 

To create the dynamics of of motion for a tight fit in the design of the pants increase balance, translated stepper and side seams reserved line seats (average line). Apply cutting the yoke on the rear halves of the pants.
 
In addition, the stepper seam of the front halves is translated towards the rearto ensure identical configuration of the seams of both halves that facilitates and accelerates technological processing and the stitching in castle. The width of the front and rear halves of the line over the knee to the hem call. 
 
Below an example of the construction of the pants for youth, tight at the hip line and above the knee, no tucks (folds). 

Measurements for the construction of the pants, see: 
St = 41 Lunch = 56 
SB = 50,5 Lunch.N. K = 40,5 (notional value) 
DB = 105 Shi = 22
 
Allowance to the poluobhvat hips PS.b = 0 cm; seam allowance to the circumference of the thigh.troubles= 6 - 7 cm; seam allowance to the circumference of the thigh above the knee.ills.N. K = 4
 

Fig. 76. Drawing pants like jeans


  The front half of the pants. Pants length (Fig. 76) T = DB + PN = 105 + 1 = 106 cm 

seat Height TN = SB/2 - 3 = 52/2 - 3 = 23 see 

the Level of the hip line YAB = 6 cm (a constant number). Knee height bn/2, height over the knee 7 - 15 cm 

Width of the front halves at the level of the hip line Б1Б2 = 0,5 SB = 0.5 x 50,5 = 25,2 cm 

step Width at the level of the hip line Б2Б21 = 0,1(SB + IB) - 1 = 0.1 x 50,5 - 1 = 4 cm 

Width at the bottom НН1 = НН2 = 0,5 SN + 1 = 0.5 x 22 + 1 = 12 cm.

To determine the width over the knee define a complete circumference above the knee with the allowance on the fit and seams (40,5 + 4 + 4 = 48.5 cm) and poluobhvat with the allowance for the fit and seams (48,5/2 = 24.2 cm). 

K K'1 = K'2 = 0.5 x 24,2 = 12 cm 

Width of the front halves of the line of buttocks Я1Я2 = Б1Б2. 

The position of the point 1 on the bisector of the angle determined by the cut Б2Я2Я21 Я21 = 1.5 cm (a constant number). Point Я21 located at the intersection of direct K 2Б21 with the line of the buttocks.

To construct a line of the bow from point B2 hold up the vertical to the intersection with the horizontal line passing through the point T (point T2). From the point T2 to the left lay 1.5 - 2 cm and put a point T21. The line of the bow is carried out using point T21, B2, Я21.

The diversion of the line bow from the point T2 to the left by 2 cm due to the fact that the pants have a tight fit and are built without tucks and pleats under the waistband.

Width at the waist line Т21Т1 = 0.5 St + 1 = 0.5 x 41 + 1 = 21,5 cm

The highest point in the lateral slice determined by the cut Т1Т11 = 0,7...1 see Point T11 and B1 connect the line sags in the middle, equal to 0.5 cm. The point K'1 is connected to the point B1 and is carried out with the deflection in the middle, equal 0.5 cm Deflection bottom line from the point N up is 1 see 

For build a rounded pocket on the front half of the points T11 with a radius of 11 cm carried out an arc that crosses the line of the upper edge in the point C7 and the line of the side cut at the point K8. 

  The rear half of the pants. Width of the bottom back half is equal to the width of the bottom of the front halves НН3 = НН4 = НН1. Width above knee back halves of equal width above the knee the front halves: K K Z = K'4 = CCH. 
 
Point B3 is located on the line of the hips Б1Б3 = 0,1 SB - 2 = 0.1 x 50,5 - 2 = 3.5 cm 
  
the Width of the rear halves of the trousers on the hips БЗБ4 = S6/2 + 3 = 50,5/2 + 3 = 28,2 see 
 
Balance pants Б4Б5 = 1/20(Sat + Sun) = 3.7 cm., the balance Line Б4Б5 continue down to the buttocks line (point Ya40). From the point Ya40 on line buttocks to the right lay the cut Я40Я4 = Б4Б5 - 1 = a 3.7 - 1 = 2.7 cm
 
Through the points H4 and B5 perform live, at which point B5 lay cut Б5Т5 equal to the segment Т2Б2. From the point B5 to a radius of Б5Т5 spend arc to the left and lay cut Т5Т51 = 2, see Point B5 connect and Kzt51. a smooth line.
 
To determine the highest point of the side cut back half of T3 is carried out two arcs from point a radius of Kzt51. St/2 + 2 = 41/2 + 2 = 22.5 cm and from point To'3 of radius equal to the length of side cut the front halves from K'1 to T11. Point Kzt51. and T3 connect direct with the deflection in the middle of 0.3 - 0.5 cm Point T3 and To the'3 connect a straight line and at the intersection of the lines of the buttocks to put points Я3. The deflection of the line K 3Я3 in the middle is equal to 1 cm.
 
To determine the width of the back half pants on the line of the buttocks to determine the length of the perimeter of the circumference of the thigh with allowances for fit and seams (56 + 7 + 4 = 67 cm); of this amount subtract the value of the cut Я1Я21 (width of the front half on the line buttocks): Я3Я5 = 67 - Я1Я21 = 67 - 28,2 = 38,8 = 39 cm.
 
Cut Я4Я5 determines the width of the step back halves. Down from point AM5 lay 1.5 cm (point AM6). Points H4 and AM6 connect auxiliary direct. Line Я21Я5 divided in half and from the resulting point is lowered perpendicular to the line Я4Я6, at the intersection of dot Я61. Point To the'4 and Я61 connect direct with the deflection in the middle of a 1 - Stepper 1.5 cm slices the front and rear halves are aligned along the entire length. Down from H-point lay 1 see 

  the construction of the yoke and surface-mounted pocket on the rear half of the pants. Down from point T5 (Fig. 77) through the seat Т5Я4 lay cut Т5Т51 = 8,7 cm Down from the point T3 on the line side of the cut lay cut ТЗТЗ1 = 4.5 cm the point of Kzt51. and T31 connect auxiliarydirect. Line ТЗТ5 divided in half (point C). From point C perpendicular to line ТЗТ5 draw down and at the intersection with the line Т31Т51 put point C1. From points ТЗ1 and Kzt51. lay down solution tucks Т31Т32 =0,5...0,75; Т51Т52 = 0,5...0,75 see the Point ТЗ2 and Т52 connect smooth lines with the point C1. Side formed recesses call for the larger side Ц1Т52 = Ц1Т53. Designing with tucks at the yokechanges the position of the points T5 and T3. From point C with a radius of ЦТ5 and CTS conduct arc up; others arc carried from points T31 and T53 radius Т52Т5 and ТЗ2ТЗ and at the intersection of the arcs are defined, respectively, point T'5 and T'3.
 
Point T'5 and T'3 unites flowing lines with the point C. Hold the outer sections of the yoke (see the dotted line in Fig. 77). To lines Т31Т53 and ТЗ2Т52 given seam. 
 
Patch pocket have from points T3 and T5 at a distance of 11 cm from one end side slice into 4 cm pocket Width 14 - 14.5 cm. Length of lateral sides 13 see the height of the toe pocket from the middle bottom of base 3.5 cm Width straps from top of Foundation along the edges of the pocket of 1.75 - 2 cm Cape strap from the middle of the upper base 3 - 3.5 cm
 
 Features of construction of trousers in viscose-Mylar fabric with two pleats on the front halves(Fig. 78). The design of the pants from hard tissues make changes in the construction of the rear halves of the pants. Upper back halves of the line of the knee (over the knee) up to the waist in comparison with typical design plays to the left by moving the stepping of the slice to the right. This technique ensures a good fit of the pants in the hips no use the wet-heat treatment.
 
When building the front halves with two folds of the seam allowance at the hips Pb needs to be at least 2see In this case, the width of the front halves of the drawing will be Б1Б2 = SB/2 + - 2 cm; Б1Б2 = SB/2 + 2 + 1 cm (if Pb = 3 to 4 cm). 
 
Step width on the hip line Б2Б21 = 0,1 SB + 1 cm; width at the waist line Т2Т1 = St/2 + a solution of folds + 1, see 
 
the location of the pleats on the waist line, the first fold is from bend line to the left with a solution of 3 cm; the second from the edge of the first 4.5 cm solution 2 see
 
The side stepper and the rear sections halves of the trousers-leg is determined by the segments Н1Н3 = 0; Н2Н4 = 4 cm; the side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers on the line over knee - lengths K 1K'3 = 0; K 2K'4 = 4 cm to the Left from the point B1 to horizontally lay the cut Б1Б3 = 0,1(SB + IB) - 1 see 
 
Cut БЗБ4 determines the width of the rear half at the hip line БЗБ4 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2.
 
Cut Б4Б5 determines the balance of the pants Б4Б5 = 1/20(Sat + Sun). The balance line Б4Б5 continue down to the buttocks line (point Ya40). To determine the slope of the line seat find on the line of the buttocks cut Я40Я4 = Б4Б5 - 1 see point B5 of the line of seats up lay cut Б5Т5 = Т2Б2 (see Fig. 76). Cut Т5ТЗ (see Fig. 77) defines the width of the rear halves at the line of protecive belt Т5Т3 = St/2 + a solution back tuck + 2, see the fold Line on the rear half move right. Cut Н3Н4 down divide in half.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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