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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§3. Technical reproduction patterns

The primary design patterns of products called original, develop only one average size and growth in polnocno-age group, which is the recommended model.
Technical reproduction patterns - the process of obtaining patterns of adjacent parts of the size and height by a proportional increase or decrease in linear dimensions of the patterns of the originals. Change the size and shape of the curves produced according to certain technical rules. Technical reproduction patterns produce the size and growth through interdimensional and miroslavich increments. Correctly found the magnitude of the increments to ensure the quality of reproduction. There are three ways of reproduction of patterns of groups of radiation and a proportional calculation.
 

 
Grouping (Fig. 114, a) is that the parts combine sets of patterns of two extreme sizes in the basic horizontal and vertical lines. The eponymous structural point direct connects, which is divided into a number of intermediate sizes, thereby determining the magnitude of the increment size to size. Grouping gives accurate results, but its disadvantage is that it requires developing patterns designs two sizes, and this increases the time spent for the process of reproduction.
  The radiation method (Fig. 114, b) is rarely used. Its essence is that from a certain point (focus) is carried out using all the design points of details the straight lines (rays). From the contour of the part along these rays delay value increments. The newly found points to draw the contours of the parts bigger and smaller sizes. This way the most simple, but least accurate. The accuracy of this method is affected by the choice of focus position. With my focus the direction of the rays is different, the structural point patterns shift, and their shapes are distorted.
The radiation method can be used in the reproduction of patterns of individual parts hats and corsetry.
  A proportional calculation method it is the most widely spread in the garment industry. The essence of the proportional-current method is that the displacement of the structural points of the curves produced by the horizontals and verticals with the relevant increments of the patterns along the horizontal and vertical axes. The size of the increments on the verticals and horizontals for each structural point find patterns based on a specific position of a point relative to the source lines (axes).
For the main parts of the shoulder products, it is recommended that the location of the source lines overlapping.
 


When the reproduction of the patterns by the size of the backrest (Fig. 115, a): vertical middle line of the back below the waist, the horizontal waist line. For shelves (Fig. 115,b) the vertical tangent to the armhole shelves, horizontal waistline. For cutting barrel: vertical line cutting the barrel, the horizontal line is the depth of the armhole. For the sleeves (Fig. 115, V): the vertical line connecting the ends of the front roll, the horizontal line the height of the crown, the corresponding line of the depth of the armhole backrest and shelves. In the collar (Fig.115, g) changes one source line is vertical, passing through nadziejko corresponding to the position of the shoulder seam. For trousers (Fig. 115, d): vertical axis line, the horizontal line the height of the seat.
When breeding for Rostam saved the same lines except the horizontal lines for the back, cutting the barrel and shelves. For the back and barrel is adopted the horizontal, passing through the point a, shelves - the horizontal passing through the top of the neck (the A41).
The magnitude of the increments for each of the design groups are defined by drawing up calculation tables to build arrays of reproduction. In .tables for each point, provided the absolute value of the displacement of its horizontally and vertically adjacent to one size and height. In addition, for each point marked with signs "plus" and "minus" direction in which it moves with increasing size and with increasing growth.
  Distribution interdimensional difference between the width of the main sections in clothes (according to the method of CNIISHP).The main requirement of the technical reproduction of patterns according to sizes is the preservation of interdimensional interval of indifference transverse dimensional measurements such as chest girth, waist girth, thigh girth, etc.
Move the points on the base lines, produce only in one direction: the contour lines - horizontal, vertical - vertical (tab. 4). All other points located on contour lines, constructive, move on the diagonal of a rectangle whose sides are lines moving vertically and horizontally.
Since complex models are always a certain individuality and reproduction method, a proportional calculation is difficult, use the method of grouping.
In some cases, when the models differ in the specific complexity of forms and products with sleeves of different designs cannot be reproduced by a proportional calculation method and use the method of grouping.
 







Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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