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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§3. The construction of jackets with three-seam Raglan sleeves on the basis of the double seam set-in sleeves

Video free jacket has an internal zipper and buttons on the side, two pockets on the shelves: the upper oblique side and the horizontal (both the pocket in the frame with zippers) and a hood that has some fill in the rear (when building point O and the same). The bottom of the jacket is tightened cord.
Allowances for free customized fit, see:
PG = 9...10 PD.t.n = 1,4
PS.PR = 4...5 PN.throats.C = 2
PD.t.s = 1.p = 13,5
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in sections, cm: to the site of the armhole - 5.5 cm (55 %); the width of the back is 2.5; the width of the chest - 2.
The area of openings is given as a seam 2 cm (if the width of the backrest and shelves without seam). In our example, the backrest and shelf will be constructed without any seam.
 


The shape of the openings depends on the configuration and location of the lines on the back А22П31 (Fig. 59), on the shelf А42П61. The location of these lines depends on style.
For building tuck point-A42 on the neck lay a tuck solution of 1 cm and length 6 cm width of the shoulder of the back and shelves are constructed without any seam. The shoulder length of back compared to length of the shoulder shelves see increase of 0.7 Points P1 and PZ1 (on the back) and points P5 and П61 (on the shelf) connect the straight lines.
The construction of a Raglan sleeve combination top parts of the back and shelves between the points A2, P1, PZ1 and A22 (on the back) and A41, A5, Пб1, A42 (on the shelf) with the sleeve does not require any additional calculations. Before applying the backrest and shelves to the sleeve, build the sleeve drawing (Fig. 60) and determine the height of the top part of the sleeve О1Рп, which is equal to the segment O 1G'8 - 2 see the product drawing (see Fig. 59).
 


Fig. 60. Drawing sleeve Raglan on the basis of flow-casting


For precise alignment of the upper parts of the back and shelves with the sleeve determines the position of the points 5' and O4 (see Fig. 60) which correspond to the points П61 and П31 on the front and the back.
FP5' = Г4П61; РлО4 = Г11П31.
Middle line of a sleeve, constructed from a point O2 (see Fig. 60), is moved along the entire length to the right by 1 cm
О2ОЗ = О1О3/2 + 1 see
Points O2 and O4 as well as O2 and 5' connect by straight lines.
Top shelves A41, A5, Пб1 and A42 (see Fig. 59) is combined with the sleeve so that the point П61 and 5' and line П61П5 and 5'О2 coincided (see Fig. 60). The upper portion of the back A2, P1, PZ1 and A22 (see Fig. 59) also combine with the sleeve so that the point PZ1 and O4 and lines П31П1 and О4О2 coincided (see Fig. 60).
In the midline of the sleeve from the point О21 located 3 cm below the point O2, give the seam. The position of the point О21 may vary depending on the width of the sleeves.
The principle of construction of the lower halves of the sleeve remains substantially unchanged РпР2 = PDS; R212 = G111 - 0.5 cm.
Through the points O4 and 12 hold a straight line and its intersection with the perpendicular from the point P7 to the line О4Рл (point P8), determine the elbow roll.
To determine the width of the bottom halves of the sleeve at the level of the height of the crown determines the full width of the sleeve in expanded form, subtracting the overall width of the upper half of the sleeve seam.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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