Products of mantle tissues are not amenable to wet-heat treatment, so creating the shape of the product is achieved by using constructive techniques.
In the construction of articles of mantle tissue is necessary to provide yoke on the back with the shelf. This gives you the opportunity to build a tuck in the belt on the area of the openings and transfer angles suteki tuck in to create a bulge of the back in the shoulder blade and chest. Middle line of back build, a straight or with a slight deflection in the region of the waist line. The yoke on the back, as a rule, build a solid (not cut).
The side sections of the building in a straight line (coats) or with a slight deflection in the region of the waist (jacket). Side cut backless build on the level of the chest line (segment Г11Г5) as coat if sleeve plain casting, or from a point G2 located in the middle of the armhole, if the sleeve middle seam running through the middle. This gives the possibility to simultaneously connect the side sections of the backrest and shelves and sleeve, thereby achieving the increase of technological design and reduced time for manufacturing the product.
The top part of sleeve (if the sleeve vtachnoy) is constructed with a minimal fit. Widely used set-in sleeves, shirt-style and casual Raglan or clinofibrate with cuffs, tabs or patriots. Collars build cutting racks.
Allowance on the chest of PG compared to coat up to 2 - 5 cm-sleeve shirt one-piece or one-piece straight armhole expand by 1 - 3 cm.
Coat single breasted with concealed zipper. At the top of the snap button. Shelf and backrest with a detachable belt. On shelves side pockets in the leaf, upper pockets with zipper. Side seams slits. Vtachnoy sleeve double seam or shirt type. Addition to the product - televitrina removable yoke.
Measurement of standard shapes to build the cloak (height 176), see:
SSH = 20,5 Dt.p = 55.6 Dr = 64
SG = 50 Loop = 20,4 Op = 32
St = 44 Dt.C = 45,5 CDF.h = 21,5
SB = 52 Di = Dt.to + 6 = 98,8 + 6 = 104,8 DP = 36
SHG = 19,2 SHP = 15,5 + 0,5 = 16
Allowance for loose fit, see:
PG = 13,5 PD.t.p = 2
PS.PR = 5 PN.throat = 2
PD.t.C = 1.5.p = 13
The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the width of the back of 20.4; the width of the shelf - 19,2; width openings - 50 - (20,4 + 19,2) = 10,4 see
The width of the sleeve under the armhole
SROC = (Op.p)/2 = (32 + 13)/2 = 22,5 see
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in sections, cm: the width of the openings of 8.7; the width of the back is 2.5; the width of the shelves is 2.3.

Width plots with the total surplus in the drawing (Fig. 69):
Г10Г11 = 20,4 + 2,5 + 1 = 23,9 = 24 cm;
Г11Г5 + Г4Г5 = 10,4 + 8,7 = 19.1 cm;
Г3Г4 = 19,2 + 2,3 + 1 = 22,5 cm
Posture OS = Dt.p - Dt.C = 45 - 45,5 = - 0.5 cm Then transferred to postroenii drawing back.
The level of the waist line
At = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 1,5 = 47 see
The level of the chest
AG = the CDF.s + PS.PR = 21,5 + 5 = 26.5 cm.
The level of convexity of the blades
AU = 0,HWP.s = 0.3 x 45,5 = 13,6 cm
The greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles
TB = 0,5 Dt.with - 3,5 = 0,5 - 45,5 - 3,5 = 19,3 see
Length of cloak
An = Di + DD.t.C = 104,8 + 1,5 = 106,3 see
The diversion of the middle line of the back at the waist line ТТ1 = 0,7 cm.
Width of the neck backless
AA1 = SSH/3 + PN.throats = 20,5/3 + 2 = 9 cm.
The height of the neck backless
A1A2 = AA1/3 + PN = 9/3 + 1 = 4 see
The height of the armhole of the backrest
Г11П2 = 0,5 DP of + 7.5 = 0.5 x 36 + 7,5 = 25,5 cm
The length of the shoulder seam
А20П1 = SHP + PPOs + Pshow = 16 + 0,7 + 1 = 17,7 cm
Transfer of the line of the shoulder cut up
А2А21 = П1П11 = 1 cm.
Points of the openings L3, 1, G2: point P3 is located at the intersection of the horizontal line from the point and direct Г11а:
    G111 = PDS 0,25 = 0,25 x 19 = 4.7 cm;
Г11Г2 = 0,5 PDS = 0.5 x 19 = 9.5 cm.
The side cut back on the chest Г11Г5 = Г11Г2. If the product is built with the usual double seam set-in sleeve Г11Г5 = 3 - 5 cm
Back width at the bottom Н1Н2 = Г10Г5.
The line of coquette building of the line blades
АУ1 = 0,HWP.C = 0,Z x 45.5 = 13,6 cm
Line of the yoke intersects with the line of openings at the point PZ1. To construct the Darts in the yoke from the point PZ1 down the line of openings откладыва1от 1.2 cm (point ПЗ2). Length tuck ПЗ1И = 10.5 cm.
The width of the shelves on the chest
Г3Г4 = A1A2 = 22.5 cm (from prior calculation).
The width of the armhole shelves
Г4Г5 = 0,5 PDS = 0.5 x 19 = 9.5 cm.
The width of the armhole shelves with the usual double seam vtachnoy sleeve
Г4Г5 = PDS - 3 = 19 - 3 = 16 cm
Width shelves on the bottom
Н4Н'Z = ГЗГ5 + 1= 32 + 1 = 33 cm
Lowering the line polutanata Н4Н5 = 2.2 cm.
The position of the yoke is determined by the cut Г4П61 = 9, see point П61 spend a horizontal line polutanata (point G8). Angle suteki (solution tuck) determines the length of Г8Г81 = 0,7 cm Length of tuck Г81Г71 = 9 cm.
To build the neck shelves from point Г81 raise up perpendicular to the line Г81Г71 and at the intersection with the upper horizontal line passing through the point A, put a point A3. Mouth width АЗА4 = A1A2 + 1 = 9 + 1 = 10 cm.
The position of the highest point of the neck is determined on the vertical line passing through the point A4.
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 4,5 = 45 + 4,5 = 49,5 see
The depth of the neck
А41А5 = SSH 0,4 + 0,7 = 0,4 x 20,5 + 0,7 = 8,9 cm
The position of the auxiliary point A60 determines the length of А5А60 = 2.5 cm.
The height of the armhole shelves
Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 7 = 18 + 7 = 25 cm.
The length of the shoulder cut
А41П50 = SHP + PN = 16 + 1 = 17 cm
Transfer of the line of the shoulder cut down
А41А42 = П50П51 = 1
Points of the openings defined segments:
Г4П6 = 6 cm; G42 = 0,25 PDS - 1.5 cm.
The side pocket of the leaflets is defined by the segments:
Т7К71 = Т7Т4/2 - 0,5;
К71К1 = 2...3 cm.
Length flush leaves К1К2 = 17 see the Point K2 on a vertical from point A2.
The position of the upper pocket in the frame with the zipper segments is determined by: Г61К30 = 3.7 cm; К30К3 = 0.5 cm.
The length of the top of the pocket in the frame К3К4 = 14,5 - 15 cm Tilt the top of the pocket corresponds to the slope of the bottom pocket. Polutanata width 4.5 cm
Determine the position of removable yoke at the back and a shelf: the extension of the line АГ10 back down from the point G10 postpone 2 cm (point G'10), through the points P11 and G11 draw and point G11 lay down 2 cm (point d'11).
On the shelf line polutanata Г3Г'Z = 2 cm; through the points П51 and G4 perform live and from the point G4 postpone 2 cm (point G'4).
 

Fig. 70. The drawing is a detachable yoke

Removable yoke, and the building separately from the base product (Fig. 70). Spend two mutually perpendicular lines with a vertex at point K. From point To lay down the cut KK1 = AG'10 (see Fig. 69); point To left and right lay the segments KK2 and KK3.
KK2 = KK3 = AA1; К2К21 = К3К31 = A1A2.
To determine the position of points K4 and K5 (see Fig. 70) spend two arcs: from points K21 and K31 with a radius of 16.5 cm to the left and right and from point C1 of radius G 10П2. From the point K1 to the left and to the right lay the segments К1К11 = К1К12 = G '10G'11.
Outer contours of the rear of the yoke is performed through point K, K21, K4, K11, K1, K, K31, K5, K12, K1.
To build the front part of the removable yoke to determine the position of points K22 and К32. Points K22 and К32 determined by the intersection of two arcs: from points K21 and K31 radius А41Аб and from points K4 and K5 radius П50А'b.
To determine the position of points К23 and K33 spend two arcs: from points K22 and К32 radius 6Г'Z and of the points K4 and K5 radius П50Г'Z.
To determine the position of points K41 and K51 carried out two arcs from the points К23 and K33 radius G 'ZG'4 and from points K4 and K5 radius П50Г'4.
The outer contour of the front part of the removable yoke carried through K21, K22, К23, K41, K4; K31, К32, K33; K51, K5.
Buttons fastening a yoke on the neck points To, and К32 K22; K11 and K12; К23 and K33; K41 and K51.