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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§3. The features of the jacket pereghibati figure


The drawing of the jacket on pereghibati figure (Fig. 94) build the basis of the drawing of the jacket on the model the figure with some changes in the construction of the back, armholes and sleeves.
For the sake of comparison designs of jackets pereghibati figure and model used measurement model figure size 50, the second of completeness, in addition to Dt.C = 43 cm; CDF.z = 20 cm 
the Posture of the figure 
OS = Dt.p - Dt.C = 45 - 43 = 2 cm 
For the best visual perception of the product on pereghibati shape waist line is moved down by 0.5 OS. 
In this case, the construction of the backrest
At = Dt.+ PD.t.from + 0.5 ° C = 43 + 1 + 1 = 45 cm 
the Level of the hip line 
TB = 0,5 Dt.s - 3,5 + 0,5 ° C = 0.5 x 43 - 3,5 + 1 = 19 see 
Derivations of the base of the sprout from point A to the right do not. The base of the sprout AA1 build on the horizontal. 
The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line reduce ТТ1 = 1,5...2 cm 
Height of the armhole of the backrest 
Г11П2 = DP 0,5 + 5,2 - 0,3 ° C = 0.5 x 36 + 5,2 - 0,6 = 22,6 see 
When you build the shelf position of the highest point of the neck determines the length of 
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 3,5 + 0,5 ° C = 45 + 3,5 + 1 = 49,5 see
All points on the waist line (solid horizontal line) is moved to the dotted lines (they define tall sizes). 
The height of the armhole shelves from point G4 up vertically. 
DP 0,5 + 4,2 + 0,3 ° C = 0.5 x 36 + 4,2 + 0,6 = 18 + 4,2 + 0,6 = 22,8 see 
To build the armhole point G4 is moved upward by 0.3 OC, and point G5 down vertically by 0.3 OS. Received point R'4 and R'5 connect with a straight line. 
On the back point G11 is moved down by 0.3 OS and put a point d'11.

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Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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