Jackets of this type are based on conventional jacket and distinguished by the presence of coquettes, invoices, top and side pockets, counter folds, reliefs, etc.
The location of the yoke on the back, the most appropriate of movement of the blades. Wet-heat treatment of the openings to create the convexity is replaced by the tuck in the yoke. On the shelf yoke feature at the level of the center of the chest and transferred the angle sutysky in a tuck at the yoke (Fig. 20). Depending on the artistic solution of the model of yoke can be positioned above or below the center line of the breast, closer in width to the ring.
 

Jacket sport semi-fitted silhouette with two-button placket. Turn-down collar. Shelf with detachable yoke, with one upper and two patch pockets. Backrest with detachable yoke. Sleeve double seam, casting, unfastened slots.
The yoke on the back (Fig. 20, a) have a horizontal U 1П3 determining the level of protrusion of the blades. Stojko the openings (1 cm) lay down point P3 (point П31). From the point'1 to the right lay the cut U 1I that defines the center of convexity of the blades (point). U 1I = 0,4 SHS. П31 points and connect a smooth line. If designing a Flirty one-piece solid - average line from point A 1 to point A01 build in a straight line. The yoke on the shelf (Fig. 20, b) build, putting downward from the point A41 on line А41Ф0 a 4.7 - 5 cm; on the armhole from point P5 lay down to 5.7 - 6 see
As the depth of significant surface pocket and its lower cutoff must defend from the bottom line to not less than the distance of the hem plus 1 cm, the distance from the waist (compared to the pocket Welt) decreases by 1 - 2 cm.
The location of the pocket from the chest line is determined depending on the length of the product Г4К = 0.35 D + 0,7 see

the Dependence of the position of surface-mounted pocket (cut Г4К) in height from the length of the article 

Length, cm 68 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88
Cut Г4К 24,5 25,2 25,9 26,6 27,3 28 28,7 29,4 30,1 30,8 31,5

Sizes patch pockets-dependent fashion. Conventionally, the width of the surface of the pocket is determined by the length of the lateral Welt pockets in the finished form plus 2 - 3 cm.
The depth of the surface of the pocket greater than its width 1.5 - 3 cm (but not more than 22 cm). To build the front end surface of the pocket (point K1) from point T4 on line А41Т4 lay cut Т4К1 = Т7К + 0,5...0,7 cm.
The dimensions of the pocket are defined by lines: the width of the pocket - К1К2, pocket depth - К1К'1, the width of the bottom - K 1K'2.
To determine the position and dimensions of the top surface of the pocket from the point T4 to the right lay the cut Г4К3 = 0,25Г3Г4 - 1 cm Width of the upper surface of the pocket КЗК4 is determined by the length of the leaves plus 2 - 2.5 cm the slope of the pocket is determined by the cut К4К41. The perpendiculars from the points K3 and K41 lay the strap width КЗК43 = К41К42 = 2...3 cm Points K42 and K43 connect with a straight line.
The depth of the upper surface of the pocket determines the length of К42К'4 = К42К43 + 1 cm Width of the upper surface of the pocket at the bottom K 3K'4 = К42К43 + 0,7 cm strap Width side surface of the pocket is equal to the width of the strap upper surface of the pocket plus 0.5 cm.
In patch pocket tuck-in side pocket is built below the line К1К2 4 see on this point To the continuation of the line Т7К lay down cut КК0 = 4 cm Through the point r0 parallel to the line К1К2 perform live. From point K0 to the right lay the cut К0К11 equal to half the length of the Welt side pockets plus 0,7 cm.
Video К0К11, continue to the left, intersects with the vertical from point Г41 at the point K5. From point lay K11 left 1 cm (point K10). From the resulting point up, hold the line mid-front tuck without the chest 2,5 cm Solution Darts at the waist 2 cm, in the line of pocket К11К12 = 2, see Point K5 and K12 connect straight down from the point K5 on the line Г41К5 delay of 0.7 - 1 cm (point K6). The point K6 and K11 connect direct. Right from the point K6 to the direct К6К11 lay cut К6К61 equal to the solution front tuck К11К12.When you build a detachable barrel point Г42 and K5, and K5 Kzt51. connect direct.
Others build shelves produce a similar design of the jacket with a cutting edged.
 

In some cases jackets sport type with pockets at the figures first or fullness with a small volume of the buttocks is the practice of building a front tuck to the bottom (with cutting or without cutting the barrel), but without the tuck in the side pocket. In this case, the left and right sides of the front of the tuck (Fig. 21) continue from the waist line vertically to the bottom shelves. If the shelf will be constructed without cutting the barrel, the lower end of the side tuck come below the line of the pocket at 4 cm