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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§4. Allowances

To ensure the freedom of movement of a person and of creating an air layer in order to adjust the heat transfer in the design of clothing provide technical allowances.

The total value of the technical allowance at the chest line for products coats the group is equal to 4 cm, for products of group costume - 3 cm Each technical allowance is distributed among three sections: back, armhole and hollow. For coats group (without insulated strip) allowances to the back, 1.2 cm, 1.2 cm armhole and to the shelf 1,b cm; to suit the group - 0.9 cm, 0.9 cm and 1.2 cm, respectively.

In addition, to give the garment a specific shape in accordance with a fashionable silhouette and artistic decision models include decorative and constructive allowances. The total allowance is composed of technical and decorative-constructive.

When sewing garments for individual orders use the minimum amount of allowances. They are given to the following areas of construction: the width of product line of the chest, waist, hips; deep arm openings; and the length of the back and front to the waist line; the width of the neck and shoulder girth.

Recommendations on the choice of the allowances are given to leading modeling organizations. The following notation allowances:

PG - General allowance on the chest;
PT - stock-to-poluobhvat waist;
Pb - allowance to the poluobhvat hips;
PS.PR - allowance for the freedom of the armhole (depth);
PD.t.with the seam allowance to the length of the back to the waist;
PSH.throats.with the seam allowance to the width of the neck backless;
.p - allowance to the circumference of the shoulder;
NPOs - normal planting of the crown sleeve 1 cm length of the armhole.

Allowances for free customized fit, depending on the silhouette 

Poluprilegayuschy Adjacent Straight Trapezoidal
Jacket
PG 5 - 5,5 7 - 8 8 - 10 6 - 7
PT 3,5 - 4 7 - 8 - -
Pb 2,5 4 - 5 - -
PS.PR 2,5 - 3 2,5 - 3 2,5 - 3 2,5 - 3
PD.t.with 1 1 1 1
PSH.throats.with 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5
.p 9 - 9,5 9,5 - 10 10 - 11 9,5 - 10

Coat
PG 8 - 8,5 10 - 11 11 - 12 9 - 10
PT 6,5 - 7,5 9 - 9,5 - -
Pb 5 8 - 9 - -
PS.PR 4 - 5 4 - 5 4 - 5 4 - 5
PD.t.with 1 - 1,5 1 - 1,5 1 - 1,5 1 - 1,5
PSH.throats.with 2 - 2,5 2 - 2,5 2 - 2,5 2 - 2,5
.p 10 - 11 11 - 12 12 - 13 11 - 13

notes: 1. Less allowances taken for products from fine fabrics, large - for goods of thick tissues.
2. PS.PR for coat: a low value for summer and winter, great for winter.
Given the allowances for free customized fit at the chest line is recommended for figures IV growth. To preserve the visual perception of a specified volume of products in the other figures of the Rostov these allowances increased by 0.5 cm for large growth and reduced by 0.5 cm for the smaller growth.

 


Notes:
1. Trousers designed to be worn without a belt or under the belt (without regulation), allowance at the waist in the presence of measurements taken with the figure, not given, and to model the figures add 1 cm.
2. Trousers with adjustable fit at the waist seam allowance on the regulation of the equal 2 - 3 cm.
3. Trousers with elastic or drawstring seam allowance at the waist and hips give in accordance with the model.
Depending on the profile and stature of the customer, the tailor can choose any combination of the silhouette of the allowances on the chest, waist and hips.


Norms of landing the top part of the sleeve N per 1 cm length of the armhole, cm

Needlepunched fabrics of synthetic fibers, fabrics of natural silk, wool fabrics containing more than 30% synthetic fibers - 0,04

A woolen fabric with a content up to 30% synthetic fibers, cotton, silk - 0,06

Pure wool dresses, silk suiting, cotton suiting - 0,08

Wool blend dress worsted and thin, worsted and overcoat, wool overcoat fabric - 0,1

Wool overcoat fabric, Drapes grybauskiene - 0,125

The Drapes overcoat pure wool soft fine - 0,15



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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