Design proregion and Raglan-shoulder straps are derived from the design of the Raglan. Polarella (Fig. 61) arm ends at the shoulder sections of the back and shelves at some distance from the points A21 and A41 in contrast Raglan armhole which ends in the neck. This distance is usually 4 - 7 see А21п = 7 cm; А41п2 = 7 cm.
To build the armhole point n and П31 on the back and points n2 and Пб1 on the shelf connect the smooth lines.
To build the top part of the sleeve from point lay to the right and 1.2 cm - solution tuck (point n1). Points n1 and П32 (on the back) and points n2 and П62 (on the shelf) connect a smooth line. To equalize the length of the top part of the sleeve with the armhole on the shelf from point П62 radius Пб1п2 make a notch on the line п2П62 (point n3). Along the lines of the top part and the armhole backrest and shelves are given a seam.
Raglan-shoulder strap does not have uniform openings. The upper part of the openings is constructed at some distance from the humeral cut (Fig. 62) and almost parallel to it. Typically, the distance from the shoulder cut 4 - 6 cm.
To build the armhole of the backrest lay segments А21А22, П11П12 and point P12 and П31 connect a smooth line and build the top part of the sleeve smooth line connecting the points P12 and П32. To equalize the length of the top part of the sleeve with the armhole from point П32 radius П31П12 make a notch on the line П12П32 (point P13). The points P13 and A22 are connected by a smooth line.
To build the armhole sleeve on the drawing, shelves and lay the segments А41А42 П50П51 and П51 Пб1 points and connect a smooth line.
To build the top part of the sleeve П51 П62 points and connect a smooth line.
To equalize the length of the line of the top part of the sleeve with the armhole line from point П62 radius П61П51 make a notch on the line П51П62 (dot П52). Point П52 and A42 connect a smooth line. Along the lines of the crown and are given the armhole seam.

LABORATORY PRACTICAL WORK 7 

To develop the design of the coat (jacket) casual Raglan real figure. To make a model, test the fit. Perform work in the order listed.

1. To produce a measurement of the real character in sequence.

2. To determine the allowance for loose fit.

3. To distribute the measurements at the SG sites.

4. To determine the width of the sleeve under the armhole of a particular shape and match with the model.

5. PG to distribute on sites.

6. To make a pivot table pre-calculation taking into account the additional allowance to the armhole area, if the actual width of the sleeve is more typical.

7. To calculate the posture.

8. To build the drawings.

Option 1. Develop design Raglan sleeve with double seam on a specific figure. To make a model and check the fit. To perform the fit.

Option 2. To develop a jacket with three-seam Raglan sleeve vtachnoy on the basis of the double seam. To make a model and check the fit. To perform the fit.

Option 3. To develop a three-seam coat sleeve on the base of the double seam of the Raglan. To make a model and check the fit on a particular figure. To perform the fit.

SELF-ASSESSMENT 

1. What are the characteristics of casual Raglan?

2. For which figures is recommended Raglan sleeve?

3. What a constructive basis Raglan?

4. What are the varieties Raglan sleeves depending on the number of stitches?

5. What allowances apply?

6. What are the features of the construction of armhole backrest and shelves in the cut Raglan?

7. As expected double seam sleeve Raglan?

8. How to build sleeve Raglan depending on the number of stitches?

9. What are the characteristics of polarella and Raglan sleeve-epaulet?