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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§4. Methods of forming back and translated suteki corner side shelves

For the formation of bulges needed to fit the blades, the design drawing should be provided for shaping of the back the product by suteki or tucks.
 


For typical figures of the total solution tucks on the arc of a circle of radius 12 cm centered at the point And (Fig. 7) should be 1.5 cm for products, and direct semi-fitted silhouettes and 2 cm for the products of adjoining silhouette. Point And identifying a top of the convexity of the blades, located on the horizontal drawn through the point at a distance equal to 0.4 SS, i.e., UI = 0.4 x 19,2 = 7,68 see
In Fig. 7,and shows how the distribution of the total solution tucks in the underarm and shoulder cut. From 1.5 cm total solution of 1 cm distributed in underarm and 0.5 cm in shoulder cut.
In accordance with the model, the properties of the fabric for a better fit of the blades and minimize the wet-heat treatment, the total solution tucks 1.5 cm distributed in armhole, shoulder and neckline cut 0.5 cm (Fig. 7,b).
 


  Partial translation angle suteki. Partial translation of the angle in armhole suteki (Fig. 8,a) to produce flat circle with a radius of Г7Г8. With translation of some sutysky in the armhole shelves point P5 on the shoulder the cut is moved by the amount suteki armholes. Angle suteki transferred to the neck of the shelves and build a tuck in the neck (Fig. 8,b) once the position is assigned to the neck in a partial corner suteki.
The withdrawal of the neck is determined by the angle suteki Г8Г7Г81.
The position of the point A31 is determined by the intersection of the perpendicular, restored from a point Г81 Г81Г7 to a straight and horizontal line drawn from the point A41. Point upward from the G8 lay cut Г8Г82, which determines the magnitude of the angle suteki. From the point Г82 raise a perpendicular to a straight Г82Г7 to the intersection with the horizontal from point A41 (point A32).
The position of the Darts on the curve of the neck is determined by the cut А6А61 = 3,5...4 see Point A61 G7 and connect auxiliary line. From the point of G7 is carried out Г7Г81 radius arc to the intersection with the line А61Г7 (point F0). On the arc the left of the point F0 postpone the cut Г81Г82 (point F1). Through points F1 G7 and hold the auxiliary straight line to the intersection with the line of the neck (point A62). The length of the Darts aside from a point AB1 down to the direct А61Г7, i.e. А61А63 = 5...7 cm.
The left side of the tuck is determined by the cut А62А63. Side tuck call on the larger side. Building Darts in the neck changes the position of the balance point of the A41, which is moved to the position of the point A42. It is determined by the intersection of two arcs, the arc from point АЗ2 with a radius equal to the segment АЗ1А41, and an arc from point A62 radius equal to the distance from the point to the A61 to the point A41.
  A complete translation of the angle sutysky in the front tuck. A complete translation of the angle sutysky in the front tuck perform graphic method to build the front tucks (neck retraction is not executed).
 


Fig. 9. A complete translation of the angle sutysky into the front tuck


From the front end of the side pocket point K1 (Fig. 9) to the left lay the cut К1К10 = 2...2.5 cm. From the point K10 spend the centerline to the intersection with the continuation of the horizontal Г7Г8 (dot D70). From point D70 with a radius equal Г70Г8 hold the arc until the intersection with the centerline Г70К10. From the point of intersection of this arc with the centerline in both directions along the chord of the arc lay half cut Г8Г81. Through the obtained point and the point of the D70 is carried out straight to the waist line, thus defining the solution front tuck on the waist line, respectively, the corner suteki Г81Г7Г8.Additionally, the solution lay in the waist of the solution front tuck. From the resulting waist line of dots is lowered down the perpendicular to the line of bottom. The upper end of the tuck behind the chest line at 5-7 cm
To keep the projected width of the shelves, from the waist to the bottom of the total of the solution front tuck on the hip line add 2/3 of the width on the side and 1/3 on the line polutanata. In the same way distribute the same amount at the waist, but without a solution front tuck.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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