Saturday, 20.04.2024, 09:34
Welcome Guest | Sign Up | Log In

All about sewing

Site menu


Section categories
Sew yourself
The ABCs of sewing
Women's clothing
Sewing for little
Designing men's outerwear
Cutting tailoring modeling women's lightweight clothing
Cutting and sewing of women clothes
Technology women's and children's light clothing
Technology of sewing production
Women's and children's dress
A hundred styles of women's dresses
Fashion tops
The basics of the art of designing clothes
Design basics clothing
Modeling and design artwork for women's and children's clothing
The manufacture of men's and children's costumes
Manufacturer of women's and children's outerwear
Art beautiful dress
According to the laws of beauty
The art of sewing
Design women's coat
Design basics outerwear
National clothes
Search
Log In
Site friends
Statistics

Total online: 1
Guests: 1
Users: 0

Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§4. The construction of the cloak-fitting Raglan

Design coat casual Raglan is based on the cloak with casting sleeves. A sleeve consisting of two halves, front and rear, based on the same sleeve coat. However, in the design the Raglan sleeve raincoat made some changes, as there form sleeves is created without the use of wet-heat processing: straightened the upper and lower middle lines sleeve; sleeve width is increased; the back half of the sleeve is constructed with elbow tuck without it. Not permitted allowances Stojko (proposedto) the armholes and sleeves backless forcreate bulges on the shoulder. This bulge creates a build tuck in the top of the armhole and sleeves. In the presence of coquettes are built tuck that replace the corners sutysky on the back shelf.
In design coat casual Raglan sleeve two halves, built in the drawing backrest and shelves, the width of the openings increase by 2 - 3 cm 
To build coat casual Raglan sleeves, the following allowances for free customized fit, see: 
PG = 12,5 PD.t.p = 2 
PS.PR = 5 PN.throat = 2 
PD.t.C = 1.5.p = 14 
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in sections, cm: the width of the back is 2.5 (20% PG); the width of the shelf is 2.5 (20% PG); the width of the armhole is 7.5 (60% PG) . 
The width of the plots in the drawing determine without seam: 
Г10Г11 = 20,4 + 2,5 = 22.9 cm;
Г11Г5 + Г4Г5 = 10,4 + 7,5 + 2(seams) = 20 see 
note. In cases where the seam to the back and the shelf does not lay, this allowance relates to the width of the openings.

  Features of construction of the back Raglan (Fig. 71, a). Abstraction line backless ТТ1 = 0,5 - 0,7 cm Width sprout building on the horizontal line passing through the point A. Side weld build mid-armhole. Width of the bottom Н1Н2 = Г10Г11 for a straight silhouette. 
For a-Line silhouette Н1Н2 = Г10Г11 + 3...5 cm. 
Transfer of the line of the shoulder cut up: А2А21 = П1П11 = 1 see Regulation point П31 is measured by the length Г11П31 = PS.PR + 1 = 5 + 1 = 6 see
To build the armhole from point A21 down the neck lay cut А21А22 = 4 cm, the Line connecting points A22 and PZ1, divided in half (point C); CC1 = 2, see Point PZ1 and G2 (G5) direct connect in the middle which put a point C2. 
С2СЗ = 0,1П31Г2 + 0,7 see 
the Line of openings is carried out through the points A22, C1, П31, C3, G2. 
The bottom of the yoke hold the oval line connecting the points PZ1 and G10. Solution tuck in the yoke 0.5 - 0.7 cm, length 10.5 cm. tuck 
  building a back half of a sleeve. The width of the rear halves of the sleeve under the armhole in finished form
(Op.p)/2 = (32 + 14)/2 = 23 cm;
Sruc.z = 23 + 1 + 2 = 26 cm 
For measuring the angle of inclination of the sleeve from point П31 hold the right arc radius, the value of which is determined by the calculation 
R = Sruc.z - (0,5 PDS + 1,5) = 26 - 10 - 1,5 = 14,5 see 
From the point P11 is carried tangent to the arc through which the lay length П11М0 sleeve = 65 cm From point П31 carried out perpendicular to the line П11М0 (point P 30). From point P 30 down the line П11М0 lay cut П30О = ПЗ1Г11. 
The level of the elbow is determined by the cut 
П11Л = Dr/2 + 5 = 65/2 + 5 = 37,5 see
The width of the rear halves of the sleeve under the armhole OO1 = 26 cm Width of the rear halves of the sleeve at the level of the elbow 
LL1 = OO1 - 1 = 26 - 1 = 25 cm, 
the Diversion of an average line from point M0 to the right М0М = 2, see Points O and M connect slightly concave line. 
To determine the width of the bottom back half sleeves define the width of the bottom of the sleeves in finished form: 
EE.owner = 0,2 SG + 10 = 0.2 x 50 + 10 = 20 cm; 
SHN.z.owner = MM1 = 20 + 1 + 2 = 23 cm.
Point O1, and L1 connect a straight line. Point L' (located on the the intersection of the centerline of the sleeve Ω with the line of the elbow) is connected to the point L1. In the middle of the line L L1 dot Л01. Building elbow tuck see § 2, Chapter V. 
To determine the position of the point M2 is carried out two arcs from the points M radius MM1 and from point Л01 radius Л01М. 
To build the top part of the sleeve is carried out two arcs from the points A22 radius А22П31 and from point O1 of radius П31Г2. The intersection of the arcs determines the position of the point ПЗ2. Point O1 ПЗ2 and connect auxiliary line. On the middle straight ПЗ2О1 put a point C21.
С21С31 = 0,1ПЗ2О1 + 0,7 see 
the top part of the sleeves is carried out a smooth line through the points A22, slightly to the left of point C1, point ПЗ2, C31 and next to the point O1. 
To construct the Darts at the top of the armhole from point A22 down neckline lay 1 cm (solution tuck). The length of the tuck 10 cm. 
To compensate for the tuck point-A21-up neckline lay 1 cm, the resulting point connect a smooth line to cut the shoulder line. The entire length of the top part of the sleeves and the openings are seam, as well as the yoke and the back for grinding.
  Features of construction of the shelf reglan(Fig. 71, b). Side seam build from the middle of the armhole. Width of the bottom Н4НЗ = Г3Г4 + 2.5 cm the Position of a point is determined П61 cut 
Г4П61 = PS.PR + 1 = 5 + 1 = 6 see 
To build the openings point down the A41 at neckline lay cut А41А42 = 4 cm Line joining the points A42 and П61 divided in half (point C4); С4С5 = 2, see Point П61 and connect G2 straight to the middle which put a point C6. С6С7 = 0,1П61Г2 + 1, see the Line of openings is carried out through the points A42, C5, П61, C7, G2.
To build a yoke on the shelf point П61 and G6 connect a smooth line. Angle suteki transferred to tuck yoke. Point G8 and Г81 combine smooth lines with the point G6. 
To build a surface pocket between points T7 and T4 down lay segments: Т7К = 8 cm; Т4К0 = 5.5 cm. 
Through the points K and K0 perform live and lay segments К0К1 = 1.75 cm; К1К2 = 19.5 cm
From the point K1 is carried out vertical down parallel to the line of prosanos and lay cut К1К'1 = 23,7 cm From point K2 draw down parallel to the lateral cut and lay the cut К2К'2 = 18 cm Width prosanos 4 see the position of the Central hinge below the level of the waist line 1 see the Distance between loops 8 see 
  the Construction of the front halves of the sleeves. Determine the width of the front halves of the sleeve under the armhole in finished form: 
(Op.p)/2 = (32 + 14)/2 = 23 cm; 
Sruc.p = 23 - 1 + 2 = 24 cm
To determine the angle of inclination of the sleeve from point П61 conduct arc left radius, whose value is determined by calculating: 
R = Sruc.p - (0,5 PDS + 2) = 24 - 10 - 2 = 12 see 
From point hold P50 tangent to the arc through which lay the sleeve length П50М40 = 65 cm. 
From the point П61 carried out perpendicular to the line П50М40 (dot П60). From point П60 down the line П50М40 lay cut П50О2 = П11О ( the back). The level of the elbow is determined by the cut П50Л20 = П11Л ( the back). Width of the front halves of the sleeve under the armhole О2ОЗ = 24 cm (frompreliminary calculation).
From point O3 at a right angle to the line О2ОЗ draw down and at the intersection with the perpendicular from point M40 dot M3. From the point M3 to the left of the line М3М40 lay width bottom sleeve: 
М3М4 = SN.hands in finished form 1 + 2 (joints) = 20 - 1 + 2 = 21 see 
Point O2 and M4 connect direct. 
To build the top part of the sleeve is carried out two arcs from the points A42 radius А42П61 right and from point O3 of radius П61Г2. The intersection of the arcs determines the position of the point П62. Point O3 and П62 connect auxiliary line. On the middle straight П62ОЗ dot C61. С61С71 = С6С7.
The top part of the sleeves is carried out a smooth line through the points A42, C5, П62, С71, O3. 
The entire length of the top part of the sleeves and the armholes and the yoke and the shelf give allowances for their deleting.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
Views: 446 | Rating: 0.0/0

Total comments: 0
avatar