Fig. 85. Method of determining proportions

The work begins with an analysis of the sketch. Determine the size of one module: distance from eye line (Fig. 85) to the chin, multiplied by 2, the actual size of the head (without hair and headdress).
If we define thus the size of the module is impossible, it is determined by measuring the distance between the bust line and waist.
Determine the Central line, a benchmark which can serve as the jugular notch. If the picture is presented in a strictly frontal position, the centerline runs vertically, but it may not take place in a straight line, if the figure shown in the photo or illustration in the dynamics.
After determining the position of the center line are applied using the module, the most important horizontal sections: the Breasts, the waist and the hips.
If the model draws attention to the length of the product, the figure certainly indicates the position of the knee. If the figure does not depict the legs, assume the length of the model. If the figure in the figure has a slope, a horizontal section perpendicular to the Central line.
Inflicting on the drawing grid, you can determine the shape, the position of the waist line, proportion, style of the product as a whole. Vertical and horizontal grid lines give us the possibility to determine which place the figure is one or the other detail.
Defining the silhouette of the model, the location of parts on a grid pattern, their size, choose a basic Foundation and build the structure.
A significant difficulty is the determination of the exact volume ratio and the degree of fit. It is difficult to do without a knowledge of fashion, its development prospects, the degree of change in shape, size, arrangement of parts, decorative elements, etc.
Changes mods require the development of new constructive methods for creating fashionable shapes, choice of allowances for free customized fit and their distribution between the main plots.

Analysis of models based on sketches and their development.

Model 1. Men's short coat sports style removable insulated strip straight line (Fig. 86), double-breasted closure, three buttons. Shelves and back with slip yoke. On shelves side Welt pockets with flaps. Vtachnoy sleeve, double seam.
Size of the module is determined by double the distance from the eye line to the chin. When applying the mesh it is necessary to consider that the position of the body has a slight tilt to the left. Vertical grid lines being built parallel to the edge of the Board.
The most extensive is the upper part of the product. Shoulder line straight. The volume and the mass of the upper part is highlighted by the presence of teases, zawayda the bottom two rows of buttons and pockets with flaps. Yoke on the back, one-piece, slip. The lower section of the yoke is located below the top of the elbow seam of the sleeve and above the chest.
The vertical line of the cross section of the backrest is located from the middle of the back approximately 2/3 of the width of the back. Tab located at the waist line. The length of the backrest in finished form determined by the sketch: the distance from the hip line to the bottom is about 1/2 of the distance from the waist line to the hip line.
Coquette on shelves overhead. The corner of the shoulder located approximately at the center of the chest. The bottom side of the yoke ends in the middle of the armhole from the top corner, right side - from the apex of the angle of the yoke in the neck.
Side Welt pocket with flap is located below the waist. The slope of the pocket corresponds to the inclination of the lower side of the yoke. The front tuck has a vertical direction and located to the left of the lower end of the front end of the pocket. The upper end of the tuck is to the left from the top corner of the yoke in the distance, about twice more than the lower end from the front end of the pocket.
Allowances for free customized fit, see:
PG = 12 PD.t.n = 2,5
PS.PR = 4.p = 14
PD.t.s = 1,5 h=1,5 (h - value insulated strip)
Total allowances for free customized fit taking the thickness of the insulating strip, see: PG = 12 + 3,2 h = 12 + 4,8 = 16,8; PS.PR = 4 + 0.5 h = 4 + 0,7 = 4,7; PD.t.C = 1.5 m h = 1,5 + 1,5 = 3; PD.t.p = 2,5 + 0,6 h = 2,5 + 0,9 = 3,4;.p = 14 + 0.7 x 2h = 14 + 0.7 x 3 = 14 + 2,1 = 16,1
The distribution of GHG allowance on sections without insulated strip, see:
the width of the back - 25% GHG = H;
the area of the openings is 55 % PG = 6,6;
the width of shelves - 20 % PG = 2,4.
The distribution of the thickness of the insulating strip h on sections, see:
the width of the back at 0.6 h = 0.6 x 1.5 = 0,9;
the area of the openings - 2h = 2 x 1.5 = 3;
the width of the shelf is 0.6 h = 0.6 x 1.5 = 0.9 or higher.
Width of the plots in the drawing, with the total allowances, see:
backless - 20,4 + 3 + 0,9 + 1 = 25,3;
armhole - 10,4 + 6,6 + 3 = 20;
shelves - 19,2 + 2,4 + 0,9 + 1 = 23,5.
The magnitude of the cuts to build the backrest, see: at = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 3 = 48,5; AG = VP.s + PS.PR = 21,5 + 4,7 = 26,2; AY = 0,HWP.C = 0,Z x 45.5 = 13,6; TB = 0,5 Dt.C - 3,5 = 19,2; an = AB + 11 = 67,7 + 11 = 78,7 ≈ 79; АА0 = 1,2; AA = 25,3; Г10Г11 = 25,3; А0А1 = SSH/3 + 3 = 20,5/3 + 3 = 9,8; A1A2 = 9,8/3 + 1 = 4,3; аП2 = 1; А20П1 = SHP + 2 = 16 + 2 = 18; Г11Г2 = 0,5 PDS = 0.5 x 20 = 10; G111 = 0,5Г11Г2 = 0.5 x 10 = 5; Г11Г5 = 4; Т21Т2 = 0,7; Н1Н2 = Т1Т2.
The magnitude of the cuts to build shelves, cm: A1A2 = CG + PN.g = 19,2 + 4,3 = 23,5; ГЗГ4 = A1A2; Г4Г5 = 23,5 - Г11Г5 = 23,5 - 4 = 19,5; ТЗТЗ1 = 0,7; НЗН4 = Т8Т31; Т31Г51 = Т2Г51; Н4Н5 = 2,2; Г6Г7 = PS.or = 4,7; Г8Г81 = 1/20ГЗГ4 = 1,2; АЗА4 = А0А1 + 1 = A 9.8 + 1 = 10.8 V; Т4А41 = Dt.p + PD.t.p + PD.t.+ PN = 45 + 3,4 + 3 + 1 = 52,4; А41А5 = SSH 0,4 = 0,4 x 20.5 = 8,2; А5А60 = 2,5; Г4П4 = Г11П2 - 1 = 25.4 MM - 1 = 24,4; Г4П6 = 24,4/4 + 0,5 = 6,6; А41П50 = SHP + 1 = 16 + 1 = 17; П50П51 = 1; П51П5 = 0,5; Г4Г2 = 10; G42 = G111 - 1,5.
The position of the yoke is determined by the cut А41Ф01 = 7.5 cm(along the chord of the arc). Through G7, and Ф01 draw up and at the intersection with the horizontal line passing through the point A1, put the point A'3. Г7Г71 = 1.5 cm Point Г71 and G2 direct connect,which is the bottom side of the yoke. The lateral side of the yoke passes through the point Г71 and Ф01.
For the transfer angle sutysky to tuck in the neck radius Г7Г8 conduct an arc up and to the left at the intersection with the straight Г7Ф01 put a point F1. Ф1Ф2 = Г8Г81. Through G7 and F2 hold directly up and at the intersection with the line of the neck put a point F02, with the upper horizontal and'1. Point F02 and Г71 connect direct. Side tuck call Г71Ф01 = Г71Ф02. Т7К = 7 cm (pocket). Through the point To the right and left make a direct, parallel line of the bottom yoke Г71Г2. Thus KK1 = 9.5 cm; К1К2 = 16.5 cm; К1К10 = 1.5 cm; width of valve at the ends of the 4 cm Width 10 cm polutanata
Lower loop is located at the front end of the bottom valve. The distance between the hinges 15 - 16 cm Length rascepa ФА61 = 2.5 cm; length of the lapel Л2Л3 = 8 cm.
The width of the sleeve under the armhole
SROC = (Op.p)/2 = (32 + 16)/2 = 24 see
The width of the bottom of the sleeves
SHN.owner = 0,2 SG is + 7.5 = 0.2 x 50 of + 7.5 = 17.5 cm
The construction of the sleeve produced in the usual way. The width of the strap on the sleeve 3 cm Width 4 cm tab
 

Model 2. Youth kit for the winter holidays (Fig. 87), consisting of a jacket and overalls.
The jacket of raincoat fabrics direct, single-breasted, closure with a stitched placket, four buttons and hinged loops. Shelves and back yoke. On shelves side patch pockets. The upper pocket also bills. Back with a one-piece yoke, the yoke - split middle seam. The sleeve of a jacket-type, double seam, finishes the cuff. Stand-up collar. By strap, belt, pockets, sleeves and bottom of the product laid the finishing stitches. When applying a modular grid determined that the position of the body has a slight tilt to the left. Vertical grid lines being built parallel to the edge of the Board.Shoulder line video a few advanced. Yoke on the shelves long, and the reliefs on the yoke, extending from the lines of the shoulders down along the front armhole, which expands the mass of the shoulder girdle and shoulder width. The bottom mass is visually reduced by a fairly large patch pockets. Coquette on shelves located below the chest line about 1/3 of one module. Patch pockets located around the middle of the distance between waist and hips.
The length of the product can be determined by the position of the bottom relative to the hip line. The bottom line is removed from the hip line for a distance of approximately 0.7 of one module.
Strap width in relation to shoulder length is 1/3. Strap width patch pocket approximately equal to the width of a lath on the shelf. The bottom of the yoke backless aligned with the bottom yoke shelves. Their shapes are similar.
The model 2 produced according to the preliminary estimation of the model 1, except the length of the product.
The size of the segments for the construction of the backrest (Fig. 87, a), cm: at = 48,5; AG = 26,2; AU = 13,6; TB = 19,2; an = AB + 14 = 67,7 + 14 = 82; AA = 25,3; Г10Г11 = 25,3; ТТ1 = 1; AA1 = 9,8; A1A2 = 4,3; аП2 = 1; А20П1 = 18; Г11Г2 = 10; G111 = 5; Т21Т2 = 1; Н1Н2 = Т1Т2.
For the formation of bulges needed to fit the blades, build the Flirty line of the convexity of the blades passing through the point and intersecting with the line of openings at the point P3. Up from P3 postpone the solution tuck (dot П31). П3П31 = 1.2 cm Length Darts 12 cm.
To build the top yoke on the back of the points G and G11 connect direct - the lower section of a yoke. Along the openings of the yoke are built on a straight line connecting points P1 and G11. On this part of the Basque unfastened. The upper section of the yoke spaced from point P1 to 1 cm.
The magnitude of the cuts to build shelves, see:
A1A2 = Г3Г4 = 23,5; Г6Г7 = 4,7; А5А60 = 2,5;
Г4Г2 = 10; Г8Г81 = 1,2; Г4П4 = 24,4;
ТЗТ31 = 1; А3А4 = AA1 + 1; Г4П6 = 6,6;
НЗН4 = ГЗГ4 - 1; Т4А41 = 52,4; А41П50 = 17,5;
Н4Н5 = 2,2; А41А5 = 8,2; G42 = G111 - 1,5.
The yoke of the shelves have horizontally passing through the point G7, the angle suteki is tuck in the yoke. Strap width is 5 cm For the pic~the swarming of the upper yoke through the point G4 and G3 carried out the horizontal line to the edge of the strap. Left cut storm flap passes through the point Г4П'50.
Width SMD pocket: KK1 = 14 cm, К1К2 = 21 cm; length SMD pocket 22 cm; Т7К = 9.5 cm, strap width on the pocket 6 cm Sleeve is based on the shirt sleeve cut cuff width of 6 cm.
 

 Jumpsuit (Fig. 87, b) is a combination of the blouson and trousers of the type "banana". Shelf and the front half of the pants are one-piece. The back and the back half of the pants are built separately. On the shelves buckle with a stitched placket with six buttons. A strap from the neck to the hips. Between the bust line and waist, a pocket with zipper.
On the front half of the pants between the line of the buttocks and the knee - patch pocket. On the back cut yoke. The bottom of the back gathers below the waist. The zone of transition and is fastened to the shelf. In this model of trousers built with the maximum allowances for free customized fit at the hip line and waist. Allowance at the chest line of the bodice 7 - 10 see the back half of the pants on the waist line two folds to 2.5 cm
To ensure ease of movement, increase the length to the waist line:
а1Т8 = Dt.+ PD.t.+ PD.t.with(optional).
An additional allowance of not less than 1 cm.
The width of the neck determines the length of а1А4 equal to the width of the neck backless plus 1 cm Lateral slice of the back and shelves built on the vertical of the point G2. The length of the front halves of the pants is determined not from the overhang of the Ilium, and from the waist line.
Seat height is increased and is determined by the formula
Т8Я20 = SB/2.
The width of the front halves of trousers to the hip line lay from the point B2 to the left:
Б2Б1 = SB/2 + 2 cm.
Additional extension Б1Б11 = 1 cm.
Plot Б2Я21 given the seam allowance which is built to the right of point B2 to the point Я21. Points T3 and B11 direct connect and hold the side cuts with a small deflection.
To build the rear halves of the pants from point T3 is carried out vertical to the hip line (point B3). To the right of the point
B3 postpone 1 cm and put a point Б30. The width of the rear halves of the trousers aside from the point B3 to the left.
Б3Б4 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2.
The balance pants
Б4Б5 = 1/20(Sat + Sun).
From the point Ya40 to the left lay the cut Я40Я4 = Б4Б5 - 1 cm On the line Я4Б5, continued upwards from the point B5, lay cut
Б5Т5 = BT + 0,7 cm.
Points T3 and Б30 direct connect and hold the side cuts with a small deflection.
 

Model 3. Jacket-blouson with zipper. On the shelves and the back quilted yoke (Fig. 88). On the shelves pockets with leaves. The bottom of the belt is pulled rubber band. Sleeve casual shirt with a collar, tied with a rubber band. Stand-up collar with snap-tab. Coquette on shelves are of the form an acute angle with a vertex located below the breast line at a distance of about 0.4 of the module. Jacket length from waist line to line protecive belt is approximately 1/4 of the module. The extra length into the seam allowance of the jacket about 1/4 of the module. If the length to the waist is 2 unit, it is possible to determine the approximate length of the jacket
EN = Dt.+ 1/2 module + PD.t.with.
If the real length to the waist 45.5 cm, 
An = 45,5 + 11,3 + PD.t.with.
The width of the belt about 1/4 of the module, i.e. 22,7/4=5.6 cm.
Model 4. The single-breasted coat (Fig. 89), the button fastening. On the shelves storm flap with button and side slant pockets with leaflets. Back on top with storm flap. Sleeve double seam, sew with the strap. Collar front zip with front. Epaulets on the shoulders.
 

Fig. 90. Drawing of the coat with a Raglan sleeve (model 5)

Model 5. Coat single breasted a-line (Fig. 90). Closure spate. On the shelves storm flap with buttons and side pockets with leaves. Back inverted pleat and a small curved yoke, buckle to the back. Raglan sleeve double seam, with a straightened arm. The standing collar-turn-down. The collar strap.
 

Model 6. Youth jacket sports type, free, closure with a stitched placket (Fig. 91). On shelves side pockets, voluminous. Upper pocket with zipper. Back inverted pleat. Sleeves double seam proregion. The sleeves and pockets of the combined fabrics of different colors. Jacket with belt.

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 17 

Developing a model for photography and drawing, to make models, test them on the figure. To analyze the results.