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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§4. The design of the jacket with a shawl collar

This jacket is based on classic coat. The upper collar is integral with the lapel. The width of the collar varies depending on fashion. To build a side single breasted jacket with a shawl collar determines the position of the upper loop. In our example, a single-button closure, which is located 2 cm above the waist line.
 


To build the neck of the jacket with a shawl collar (Fig. 22, a) from a point A41 down the line А41Т4 lay 0,4 SSH (point A5). Up from point A5 lay 2.5 cm (point A60). From the point A3 down the line А3Г81 lay cut А3А6 = А4А5 + 3 see Point A5 and AB connect in a straight line. Through A60 and AB carried out a direct subsidiary for the construction of the neck and determine the width of the lapel.

The neckline is carried out regarding line А60А6. To build Shali build a fold line of the lapel, which passes through points L and W. Line А60А6 continue right to the intersection with the perpendicular to the fold of the lapel, on which lay the width of the lapel (shawl). The point of intersection denoted L2. Points L2 and L connect direct. Perpendicular from the middle of the straight ЛЛ2 lay 1.2 cm to build shawls a smooth line. The shape and width of the shawl depends on the model. The design of the Board from point L down is given in the design of a single-breasted jacket.

To build the neck angle points L and A41 (Fig. 22, b) connect by a straight line, the intersection of which with line А60А6 put a point F0. The neckline angles is carried out through the points A41, F0 and L2.

In a double-breasted jacket with shawl neckline, rounded or the angle is very similar design single-breasted jacket with a shawl. The width of polutanata (distance L from the line of prosanos) is equal to 6 - 8 cm



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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