Saturday, 27.04.2024, 20:56
Welcome Guest | Sign Up | Log In

All about sewing

Site menu


Section categories
Sew yourself
The ABCs of sewing
Women's clothing
Sewing for little
Designing men's outerwear
Cutting tailoring modeling women's lightweight clothing
Cutting and sewing of women clothes
Technology women's and children's light clothing
Technology of sewing production
Women's and children's dress
A hundred styles of women's dresses
Fashion tops
The basics of the art of designing clothes
Design basics clothing
Modeling and design artwork for women's and children's clothing
The manufacture of men's and children's costumes
Manufacturer of women's and children's outerwear
Art beautiful dress
According to the laws of beauty
The art of sewing
Design women's coat
Design basics outerwear
National clothes
Search
Log In
Site friends
Statistics

Total online: 1
Guests: 1
Users: 0

Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§4. The design of the trousers on the figures from the incorrect structure of the foot


Fig. 79. Shape deviations in the structure of the legs:
a - normal; b - O-shaped legs; X-shaped legs


In Fig. 79, and the legs have the correct structure, when the closed position of the patella and ankles touching each other.
The longitudinal axis of symmetry form one straight line from the waist to the floor. The shape in Fig. 79, b legs are in the closed position the knee differ. The longitudinal axis of symmetry are curved from the knee to the bottom inside. Legs are O-shaped. The shape in Fig. 79, the legs in the closed position in the hips from the crotch to the knee on the inner side in contact. The longitudinal axis of symmetry are curved from the knee down to the outside. Legs are X-shaped.
If not to take into account the structural features of the feet and build the pants on a regular basis, they not only lose their shape but will be uncomfortable to wear. The figure O-shaped legs bends and the bottom of the pants will shift outward, through the seam formed creases, and on the figure with X-shaped legs bends and the bottom of the pants will shift inward creases are formed by the lines of the side seams.
The design of the pants on these figures has a number of features. The construction of the pants shape with O-shaped and X-shaped shape of the toe is performed by standard design, with some modifications, which should ensure a good fit of the pants, driving dynamics, visual reduction of the curvature of the legs, and the bend line of the front half should not deviate from the common thread more valid values.
  O-shaped legs. To build of trousers on this figure in addition to the main measurement determine the distance between the legs at the level of the knee cups horizontally.
Measurement of the shape, see:
St = 44 SN = 25
SB = 52 SHK = 25
DB = 105 O = 10
Allowance for loose fit to the hips poluobhvat Pb = 2 cm.
 


 Construction of front halves. Unlike the design of the pants on the figure with the correct structure of the legs in the design of the pants shape with O-shaped legs of the line of the buttocks, hips and waist are moved in a clockwise direction with centers at the points I, B, T (Fig. 80, a):
pants length T = DB + PN = 105 + 1 = 106 cm;
seat height TN = SB/2 - 2 = 56/2 - 2 = 24 cm;
the hips YAB = 6 cm.
The height of the knee, BK = bn/2; the level of over-the-knee KK' = 7 cm determine the displacement of the line of the buttocks, hips and waist point To the left lay the cut КК5 = 0.3 curve of the foot = 0.3 x 10 = 3 see Point 5 and I connect auxiliary line. Line of the buttocks, hips and waist are building perpendicular to the line ЯК5.
For determining the fold line from the point To the left lay the cut КК51 = 0,25КК5 = 0.25 x 3 = 0.75 cm, the fold Line is carried out through the points K51 and I to the intersection with the waist line at point T'. Point K51 N and connect with a straight line.
Such an intersection of fold lines are allowed in the solid tissues. The tissues in the cell (the bar) a fold line build vertically and is carried out through the points T, K and N.
Width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the hip line is equal to
0,5 SB + 2 = 0.5 x 52 = 28 cm.
Step width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the hip line is equal to
0,1(SB + Pb) = 0,1(52 + 2) = 5,4 see
Width of the front halves at the level of the hips and the width of the step at the level of the hip line in the amount of 28 + 5,4 = 33,4 cm
From point B lay left and right segments
BB1 = ББ21 = 33,4/2 = 16,7 cm
The width of the front halves lay at the bottom of the point N
НН1 = НН2 = 0,5 SN = 0.5 x 25 = 12.5 cm
Width of the front halves at the line of the knee is determined by segments
К51К1 = К51К2 = 0,5 Wk = 0.5 x 25 = 12.5 cm
A lateral cut is performed through the point H1, K1 and B1. At the intersection of this line with the line of the buttocks, put the point H1. Line of step cut is performed through the point H2, K2, Б21. At the intersection with the line of the buttocks to put points Я21. The width of the front halves of the line of buttocks aside from the point H1 to the right Я1Я2 = Б1Б2.
Regardless of the change of the position of the lines of the buttocks, hips and waist line bow build vertically. This bow maintains the pattern on the fabric (strips or cells). From the point B2 is carried up the vertical to the intersection with the waist line at point T2.
Points B2 and H2 connect the auxiliary line. On the bisector of the angle Б2Я2Я21 lay cut Я21 = 0,25Б2Я2. The position of the point T2 does not change. The line of the bow to carry through the point T2, B2, 1 and Я21.
The width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line defines the cut
Т2Т1 = 0.5 St + fold + tuck + 2 = 0.5 x 44 + 2 + 1,5 + 2 = 27,5 cm
The rest of the building is carried out in the usual way.
  The rear half of the pants. The side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined by segments
MC = НН4 = 0,5 SN + 2 = 0.5 x 25 + 2 = 14.5 cm,
and the position of the lateral and stepper sections of the rear halves of the pants on the line of the knee is determined by segments
К51К3 = К51К4 = 0,5 SHK + 2 = 0.5 x 25 + 2 = 14.5 cm.
Through the point B1 is carried out of the horizontal, on which lay cut
Б1Б3 = 0,1(SB + Pb) - 1 = 0,1(52 + 2) - 1 = 4,4 see
The width of the rear halves of the trousers aside from the point B3 on the inclined straight line of the thighs, passing through the point B:
Б3Б4 = SB/2 + 3 = 52/2 + 3 = 29 cm, or Б3Б4 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2 = (52 + 2 + 3) - 28 = 29 see
The balance of the pants determines the length of Б4Б5 on the vertical of the point B4.
Б4Б5 = 1/20(SB + IB).
To construct a line of the seat cut Б4Б5 continue down to the buttocks line to point Ya40.
Я40Я4 = Б4Б5 - 1 see
The line of seats is carried out through Ya40 and B5. Б5Т5 = Б2Т2.
Through the point Я21 carry out horizontal to the right and from the point H4, horizontally lay the width of the step rear halves of the pants is 0.25(SB + IB) - 1...2 see Next drawing build in the usual way.
  X-shaped legs. In addition to the main measurement determine the distance between the legs at the level of the ankle. The design on the shape with X-shaped legs of the line of the buttocks, hips and waist are moved in a counterclockwise direction with centers at the points I, B and T (Fig. 80, b).
To determine the amount of displacement of the lines of the buttocks, thighs, and waist from point lay To cut КК5 to a quarter of the measurements of the distance between the legs at the level of the ankle in the direction of a step cut. The point K5 and I connect the auxiliary line. Perpendicular lines ЯК5 hold the line of the buttocks, hips and waist.
For determining the fold line from the point To the right lay the cut КК51 = 0,25КК5. A fold line is carried out through the points K51 and I to the intersection with the waist line at point T'. Point K51 N and connect with a straight line. A fold line is carried out vertically through the points T, K and N, if the pattern of the fabric in stripes or checks, and through the points T', K51 and N, if the fabric is plain.
The width of the halves of the trousers at the level of the knee in the first case, define the from point K51 and the second from point K.
 


 The feet are turned outwards or inwards. The shape with the feet rotated outward, the distance between the toes of the feet increased. To make changes in design Trouser socks determine the deviation from the normal position between the longitudinal axes at the level of socks. Conventionally, the normal divergence of socks between the longitudinal axes at the level of the sock is 18 - 20 cm If, for example, the actual difference is 40 cm, then for each leg the difference between the socks is PH = (40 - 20)/2 = 10 see In this case, a fold line on the front half of the pants of YAN (Fig.80) shift in the side seam by the amount NN' = 0,25 x 10 = 2,5 cm relative to the fold line YANG' right angle building line of the knee and bottom. The rest of the building is produced according to set standards and to accepted calculations.
On the rear half of the pants a fold line YANG slip to the side seam by the same amount, on the front, i.e. at 2.5 cm of the Line of the knee and the bottom of the building at a right angle to the line of YANG'. The rest of the building also produce according to set standards and to accepted calculations.
For a figure with feet turned inwards (Fig. 80, g), all amendments to the drawing bring in reverse order compared to the previous figure. If, for example, the difference between the actual socks is 0 cm, PH = (20 - 0)/2 = 10 see In this case, a fold line on the front half of the pants IAN shifted by 0.25 PH in the side seam. On the rear half of the pants a fold line YANG slip into the side seam as well by 0.25 PH. The knee line and the bottom of the building at a right angle to the line of YANG'. The rest of the building is carried out according to specified standards and accepted payments.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
Views: 526 | Rating: 0.0/0

Total comments: 0
avatar