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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§5. The construction of a sports jacket type of raincoat fabrics

Below is the design of the jacket for insulating the strip with zipper. Stand-up collar with snap-tab. Shelves and back cutting teases, moving in a lowered armhole. Coquette quilted and contoured the line of the Raglan. On the shelves quilted patch pockets, upper pockets with zipper. Sleeve vtachnoy, built on the basis of clinofibrate sleeves with belt. 
Allowances for free customized fit (without insulated strip): 
PG = 11 cm PD.t.p = 2 cm 
PS.PR = 4 cm PN.throat = 1.5 cm 
of PD.t.s = 1 cm.p = 11 cm
The thickness of an insulation strip is equal to 1 cm. 
The distribution of GHG allowance on sites (without insulated strip), see: the back 25% of PG =0,25 x 11 = 2,75; to the armhole 50% of PG =0.5 x 11= 5.5 cm; the shelf 25% PG = 0,25 x 11 = 2,75 cm 
thickness Distribution of the insulation strips: 
the back of 0.6 utal.PR = 0.6 x 1 = 0.6 cm; 
the armhole 2һутепл.CR = 2 x 1 = 2 cm; 
the shelf is 0.6 utal.PR = 0.6 x 1 = 0.6 cm 
Width plots with a total allowance for the drawing: 
backless - 20,4 + 2,75 + 0,6 = 23,75 cm; 
armhole - 10,4 + 5,5 + 2 + 2 (for seams) = 20 cm; 
shelves - 19,2 + 2,75 + 0,6 = 22,55 see

  Construction features backrest and rear halves of the sleeve (Fig. 72, a). Allowance to the length of the waist of the back of the PoA.t.with increase in the thickness of an insulation strip 
at = Dt.with + 1 + 1 = 45,5 + 2 = 47,5 see 
the Level of the chest is determined from the thickness of the insulation gasket 
AG = VLOOKUP.s + PS.PR + 0,5 utal.PR + 1 sm (further deepening the armhole) = 21,5 + 4 + 0,5 + 1 = 27 see
the height of the armhole of the backrest 
CDF.SP = 0,5 DP + 6 + 0,5 utal.PR + 1 sm (further deepening the armhole) = 0.5 x 36 + 6 + 0,5 + 1 = 18 + 7,5 = 25,5 see
Given the increase in the height of the shoulder height of the armhole of the backrest Г11П2 = 25,5 + 1,5 = 27, see Transfer line of the shoulder cut up А2А21 = П1П11 = 1 see 
the position of the point is determined П31 cut Г11П31 = b, see 
point П31 hold the left and horizontal at the intersection with the middle line of the back put a point U1. 
The width of the jacket sleeves under the armhole in finished form increased by 0.7 thickened insulating spacer openings. 
SROC = (Op.n)/2 + (0.7 x 2) = (32 + 11)/2 + 1,4 = 23 see
the Width of the rear halves of the sleeve under the armhole 
, Sruc.z = 23 + 1 + 2 = 26 cm
To determine the angle of inclination of the sleeve from point П31 hold the right arc radius, the value of which is determined by the calculation 
R = Sruc.z - 0,5 PDS = (23 + 1 + 2) - (0,5 x 20) = 26 - 10 = 16 cm. 
From the point P11 is carried tangent to the arc through which the lay length П11М0 sleeve = 65 cm From point П31 carried out perpendicular to the line П11М0 (point P 30). From point P 30 down the line П11М0 lay cut П30О = П31Г11. Through the point draw to the left at a right angle to the line П11М0. Radius П31Г2 from point П31 make the cut on this line and on put the intersection point O1.
Through the point M0 is carried out a perpendicular, on which lay the segments: М0М = 2 cm; MM1 = 23 cm. The position of the point M2 is determined by the intersection of the two arcs from the points M radiusMM1 and from point C located at the middle of the straight line OO1, with a radius of CM. Points O1 and M2 connecting by a straight line, and the points M and connect slightly concave line. 
To build the lower part of the sleeve crown point П31 and O1 and connect straight to the middle dot C21. 
С21С31 = С2С3 = 0,1П31Г2 + 0,7 cm.
To build the Basque line up from point U1 postpone 1 cm (point U3). Armhole in the upper part is carried out with the deflection of the line from П30П31 mid equal to 0.5, see the bottom of the yoke, connect a smooth line with the armhole, as shown in the drawing. 
  Features of construction shelves front half of sleeve (Fig. 72, b). The side seam of forepart, as in the back, build from the middle of the armhole. Cut Г4Г5 = 0,5 PDS = 0.5 x 20 = 10 cm. 
the Position of the highest point of the neck shelves 
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 5 + 0,6 h = 45 + 5 + 0,6 = 50,6 see 
the position of the point is determined П61 cut Г4П61 = 6 cm.
To build the Basque line through the point П61 hold horizontal the line to the right and at the intersection with the line of prosanos put a point G8. Solution tuck in the yoke Г8Г81 = 1 cm; length 10 cm tucks Yokethe shelf quilted outlined by the line of the Raglan. 
The height of the armhole shelves 
Г4П4 = DP 0,5 + 5,5 + 0,5 utal.PR + 1 (the additional recess armhole) = DP 0,5 + 6,5 + 0,5 h = 18 + 6,5 + 0,5 = 25 cm, the 
Transfer of shoulder cut from the point A41 is 1 cm 
To build the armhole point П61 G2 and connect with a straight line. In the middle of the line П61Г2 dot S6.
С6С7 = 0,1П61Г2 + 1 see
The line of openings is carried out through П61, C7, G2. 
The side patch pockets defined segments: 
Т7К = 6.5 cm; Т4К1 = 7 cm; К1К2 = 19 cm; К1К'1 = 20 cm. 
The top pocket is based on the balance line shelves Т4А41. From the point T4 lay up 3 inches and put a point K4. The length of the pocket КЗК4 = 15 cm. 
To build the front halves of the sleeves define a tilt angle sleeves. From the point П61 conduct an arc to the left with a radius, the value of which determined by the calculation: 
R = Sruc.p - 0,5 PDS = (23 - 1 + 2) - (0,5 x 20) = 24 - 10 = 14 cm.
From point P50 is carried tangent to the arc through which the lay length П50М40 sleeve = 65 cm From point П61 to the line П50М40 spend perpendicular and their intersection dot П60. From the point П60 ondirect П50М40 lay cut П60О2 equal to the segment Г4П61.
The width of the sleeve under the armhole lay on the perpendicular from point O2 to line П50М40, О2ОЗ = 23 - 1 + 2 = 24 cm From point O3 carried down perpendicular to the line О2ОЗ and at the intersection with the line of the bottom dot M3. From the point of M3 at a right angle to the line of OSMS make a direct left on which lay the width of the bottom of the sleeves М3М4 = 20 - 1 + 2 = 21 cm. The position of the point M'4 are determined by the intersection of two arcs: from point M3 radius М3М4 down and from point P1 (located on the middle of the straight line О2ОЗ) radius П1М3. The point M'4 and M3 connect direct. The bottom line is the frontthe halves of the sleeve is carried out by deflection from the middle of 0,75 cm
The top part of the sleeve on the plot П61О3 build similar to that of the armscye curve on the plot Пб1Г2. 
To align the upper midline of the shelves and backs to the line of openings from the point P50 line П50М40 lay cut П50П'60, is equal to the segment П11П30 on the back. 
Armhole in the upper part of the plot Пб1П'60 performed with a deflection from the middle down, equal to 0.2 cm At the same site the crown is carried out with a deflection at the top equal to 0.2, see the lines the arm openings and primaqiune are yoke seam.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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