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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§5. The design of the shelves straight

Jacket straight changed the construction drawing of the shelf, drawing the same back build in the usual way. In terms of personal clothing cutters mainly used in the design of the jacket is straight, which provides a better fit in the waist and chest. Processing of such a jacket is facilitated by reducing the wet-heat treatment in the chest and side pockets, the layout patterns more rational.
When you build a drawing of the shelves of the jacket with a cutting sideways, its width remains unchanged and corresponds to the provisional calculation sections General stock shelves without cutting the barrel. The width of the armhole General allowance for the drawing of straight increases on abduction barrel at the chest line, i.e. the length of a line Г41Г42 (see Fig. 5). The amount of discharge of the barrel depends on the model, completeness and age of the customer. In the abduction barrel reduced slack side cut shelves on the waist line.Reasonable slack on the side cut of the shelves is achieved with lead barrel point to the left Г41 2.5 - 3 cm.
If the waist is much more typical and if the fabric is "very dry" (almost not amenable to wet-heat treatment), the retraction barrel may be more than 3 cm In this case, it is determined graphically.
 


The width of the shelves on the chest lay to the right horizontally, determining the level of the chest (Fig. 10). The highest point of the breast on the chest determines the length of ГЗГ6 = 0,5ГЗГ4 + 1 see
To the left of the point G4 on the chest lay the cut Г4Г41 equal to 3.5 cm (constant). The splaying of the barrel from the point Г41 left Г41Г42 = 2,5...3 see
The width of the barrel Г42Г5 = 0,25 SG.
The width of the armhole shelves given seam grinding of a barrel with a mantle is composed of the sum of the segments Г4Г41 and Г42Г5. The full width of the openings of the product is equal to 3.5 cm + 0,25 SG + Г11Г5 (on the back), the cut Г11Г5 should be equal to 0.5 cm full width of the armhole shelves straight tailored seam of primaqiune barrel to the shelf is in this case 0,25 SG + 4 see
The width of the shelves on the level of the hip line Б8БЗ determine the rate of
Б8Б3 = S6 + 10 - Б1Б2 (on the back), where 10 is the sum of the allowances: poluobhvat hips Pb (4.5 cm) on the seams of primaqiune barrel to the shelf (1.5 cm), stitching the side seams (2 cm) on the diversion of the barrel at the hip line (2 cm).
Defining the position of the points G5 and B3, connect them with a straight line.
To create deflection lines of the side of the slice of the shelf lay at the waist 1.5 - 2 cm in the direction of line of prosanos (ТЗТЗ1 = 1,5...2 cm). The line of the side seam is carried out through ТЗ1 and G5, extending the line up and aside from the point G5 cut Г5Г51 equal to the segment Г5Г51 on the back. Through the points B3 ТЗ1 and draw to the intersection with the horizontal from point N4 (point N3). The deflection line Г5ТЗ1 in the middle of the 0.3 - 0.5 cm Decrease in line polutanata Н4Н5 = 2...2.5 cm.
The position of the highest point of the neck shelves is determined by constructing the angle suteki Г81Г7Г8, while in the shelf straight angle suteki reduced by 0.5 cm compared to a shelf without cutting a barrel (Г8Г81 = 0,05Г3Г4). This reduction in angle suteki allows to increase the solution front tuck on the waist line up to 2 - 2.5 cm, thereby increasing the fit at the waist and bulge in the chest area.
To simplify finding the highest point of the neckline shelves and not to build a corner sutysky, the segment A1A2 is divided in half (point A4). From point A4 drop the perpendicular down to the intersection with the waist line (point T4) . From the point T4 up lay cut Т4А41, which determines the position of the highest point of the neck:
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 3...3.4 cm; Т4А41 = Dt.p - SSH 0,4 + 0,5...1 see
The design of the jacket, the width of the neck backless (Rostock) is determined by calculating
SSH/3 + PN.g.C = 0,4 SSH.
Т4А41 = Dt.p - Chrastka + 0.5 to 1 cm.
This calculation greatly simplifies finding the position of the point A41.
The width of the neck (without building corner suteki) delay from the point A4 to the right (point A3).
А4А3 = Chrastka + 1 see
From the point G3 up delay period, equal to PS.PR + 1 (point Г81). Points A3 and Г81 connect with a straight line.
The depth of the neck А41А5 = SSH 0,4±fashion.
From point A5 to the right hold the horizontal line to the intersection with the line of prosanos (point AB). For tracing the neckline determines the position of the support point A60 (А5А60 = 0,25А41А5 + 0.5 cm). Point A60 and A6 connect direct. To deepen the neck shelves is a point of AB moves down. The neckline is drawn, as shown in the drawing.
The height of the armhole shelves Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 4.2 cm
The length of the shoulder cut А41П50 = SHP + Psov.
The bevel of the shoulder cut П50П5 = 0.5 cm.
Position of auxiliary points, openings L6, 2, 3, 4, G2 is determined from the calculation:
Г4П6 = 0,25Г4П4 + 0,5; G42 = 0,25 PDS - 1,2...1,5 cm;
    N53 = 0,5П5П6; 3 - 4 = 0,7...1 cm; Г4Г2 = 0,5 PDS.
The control point connection of the sleeve with the armhole A7: П6П7 = Г4П6/3.
The side pocket height: Т7К = 0,25 Dt.with a 3.5...5.5 cm; the position of the side pocket point TO KK1 = 0,5К1К2 + 1...1,5 cm; the location of the top of the pocket with leaves: Г4К3 = 0,25ГЗГ4 - 1 cm; КЗК31 = 1.5 cm; КЗ1К4 = 10,5 + 0,3 cm (from size to size) .
Cut line front tuck feature so that its lower end was located from a point K1 to the left of the line of the cut of the pockets by 2 cm (point K10). From the point of K10 cutting line Darts hold up towards the balance point of the A41, not leading to the chest at 5 - 7 cm of the Solution front tuck on the waist line and the line of the pocket (К11К12) is 2 see
  the Construction of a cutting barrel. To build a detachable barrel determines the position of the side tuck on the chest line and the line side pockets; Г4Г41 = 3.5 cm; КК5 = 3.5 cm
Through Г41 and K5 carry out vertical down to the intersection with the waistline to point T5, hips - B4, with the bottom line - НЗ1.
On the chest: Г41Г42 = 2,5...3 see
Point Г42 K5 and connect with a straight line. Right from the point T5 at the waist lay 0.5 cm: Т5Т6 = 0.5 cm, if the diversion of the barrel on the chest 2,5 cm; Т5Т6 = 1 cm, if the retraction barrel 3 see
Right side tuck is performed through a point Г41, TB, K5 with a deflection line Г41Т6 in the middle of 0.3 - 0.5 cm.
A line inside of the cut barrel is carried out through Г42, K5, Н31.
To build a tuck in the side pocket of the point K5 down the vertical delay 1 - 1.2 cm (point K6). Point KB K11 and connect with a straight line.
Point KB to the right in a straight line К6К11 lay 2 cm (point CB1), i.e. the segment is equal to the solution front tuck on the line of the pocket К11К12. The combination of points K11 and K12, provides the combination of points 5 and QB1.
The position of the point KB you can also determine if from point K1 to draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the straight Г41Н31.
Through the point К61 hold the vertical, which intersect: a line of pocket at the point of K51, with the hips at the point B7 and the bottom line at the point N32. From the point N32 down on the continuation of the vertical К61Н32 lay cut Н32Н33 = К51К61.
Point N33 N5 and connect with a straight line. For small extensions the floors down the line К61Н33 move to the left from the point N33 1 cm
When stitching the front Darts in the inner section of the shelf passes through the point Г41, T6, K5 (К61), and B7 N33.
When cutting products or the layout of patterns on fabric and cutting the flank is not always possible to placed on the same level with the shelf. In this case, the front and side building separately.
In Fig. 10,this build the shelves straight, when the solution tucks into a side pocket of build from point K5 down.
In Fig. 10,used this build the shelves straight, when the solution tucks into a side pocket of build from point K5 upwards. In this case, the slope of the line of the cut side pockets decreases Т8К0 = Т7К + 1.5 cm.
Build shelves with a solution tucks into the side pocket of the point K5 up entails some changes of the position of individual points on the lines of the armhole, waist and shoulder cut.
From the point K5 up delay 1 - 1.2 cm - solution tuck in the side pocket (location K6). The same number moved up a point T5. Т5Т51 = К5К6. Kzt51. point and a point located at the intersection of the left side of the front Darts with the waist line, connect straight line, determining a new position of the waist line on this plot.
On the armhole point Г41 moves up on the value segment К5К6 (point G'41). Point Г41 G3 and connect a straight line that defines the new position of the chest. At the intersection of this line with the vertical drawn from the point A2 put a point G'4.
The position of the point P6 is determined by the cut of G 4П6 = 5.5 to 6 cm With a change in the position of the point G4, the position of the point P4: she moves up to the position of the point P'4 (П4П'4 = Г4Г'4).
The line of openings is carried out through point P5, 4, P6, G'41.
In Fig. 10,the solution tucks into a side pocket of build up from the point K5 without changing the reference points of the armhole, but with some changes in the construction of the upper part of the barrel. Point Г42 at the chest line move down the line Г42К5, an amount equal to the segment К5К6 (Г42Г43 = К5К6). Through the point Г43 draw parallel lines Г42Г5 where you build the top part of the barrel in the usual way.
When you build a tuck in the side pocket in the way stated above, the level of the chest (the depth of the armholes on the back) is determined by the formula
AG = the CDF.z + 3 - 1 see
In Fig. 10, g this build the shelves straight pocket inclined. To build such a pocket point T8 lay down cut Т8К0 = 0,5Т7К.
Pocket built on the line passing through the points K0 and K. the Left side of the front tuck equalize the length on the right (points K12 and K11 must be at the same level). Point K12 K6 and connect with a straight line. The rest of the build performed in the usual way.

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 3

To build a framework drawing of the jacket with a cutting sideways on measurements of the model and the real figures. To make a model. Perform work in the order listed.
Stage I: Preparation of preliminary calculations:
1) make three measurements of a person;
2) to select allowances for free customized fit;
3) to distribute a bushel of poluobhvat chest on three areas - back, underarm and a shelf;
4) set the width of the sleeve under the armhole, compared with a calculation and make changes in the width of the openings;
5) distribute the total surplus P,;
6) to calculate the posture of the figure.
Stage II. Drawings basics.
Stage III. Translation cutter with drawing basics product parts.
Stage IV. For the main parts to make cutting back and shelves of the mock-up fabric. To make a model.
V stage. To check the design on a specific figure, to perform the fit and adjust the product design.

SELF-ASSESSMENT 

1. What is the base mesh and what is its purpose?
2. What is horizontal and vertical lines of the base mesh?
3. What is a preliminary calculation and what is its purpose?
4. How to set up a preliminary calculation of the design?
5. How to allocate the total allowance for the chest?
6. What determines the width of the sleeve under the armhole to the drawing?
7. What is the formula of posture?
8. Where to start building back?
9. How to determine the position of points T, B, N, y, y'1, A0, A01 when building the back?
10. How to build the middle line of back?
11. How to build the neck the back?
12. How to build a shoulder line?
13. How to build a armhole?
14. How to determine the width of the back at the waist line and hips?
15. Where to start building the shelves?
16. How to determine the highest point of the chest?
17. As expected the width of the armhole shelves?
18. How to determine the width of the shelves on the line of the hips?
19. How to build a side cut?
20. How to determine the balance of products according to the dimension of Dt.C and Dt.p?
21. What is the dimension of Dt.p and Dt.CI in the drawing?
22. How to build a corner sutysky?
23. How to build a neck?
24. How to determine the height of the armhole backrest and shelves?
25. How to build shoulder cut shelves?
26. How to build a armhole shelves?
27. How to build a line of the cut side pockets?
28. How to build the front and side Darts?
29. How to produce partial and complete translation of the angle sutysky in the front or tuck into the neck?
30. How to build arm openings in the shelf straight?



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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