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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§6. Build jacket-windbreaker hooded

Below is an example of the construction of jackets with hooded zipper with the left side five buttons. On the shelves vertical pockets with zippers; sleeve kimono. Sleeves pockets with zippers. The bottom of the sleeves and pull the product braid-band.
Allowances for free customized fit, see:
PG = 17 PN.throats.C = 1,5
PS.PR = 5 PD.t.n = 2,5
PD.t.s = 1.p = 14
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in the areas of their chest cm: the width of the backrest 0.25 x 17 = 4.25 g (25% PG); area of openings of 0.55 x 17 = 9,3(55% PG); the width of the shelf 0,20 x 17 = 3,4 (20% PG).
Width of sections with a total allowance for the drawing, see: the back of 20.4 + 4,3 = 24,7; armholes and 10.4 + 9,3 = 19,7; shelves - 19,2 + 3,4 = 22,6.

  Especially the drawing of the back sleeve (Fig. 73, a). The middle line of the building on the vertical of point A.
The side cut of the building on the vertical of the point G2.
ГГ2 = 0,5 (SG + PG + Psov) = 0,5 (50 + 17 + 2) = 34,5 see
Width of the bottom НН2=ГГ2.
The shoulder cut is transferred up 1 cm From the point A21 on the continuation of the shoulder line to the right lay the sleeve length with shoulder width plus 4 cm.
А21М1 = SHP + More + 4 = 15,5 + 64 + 4 = 83,5 see
The width of the sleeve on the back to determine the perpendicular to the line А21М that intersects the line of the side cut Г2Н2 at point G12 and line sleeves А21М at the point P12.
Г12П12 = Sruc.ready + 1 (transfer medium) + 2 (for welds);
Sruc.ready = (Op.p)/2 = (32 + 14)/2 = 23 cm; Г12П12 = 23 + 1 + 2 = 26 cm
On the perpendicular from the point M to the straight А21М lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom
MM1 = Sruc.ready + 1 + 2 = 22,5 + 1 + 2 = 25,5 see
Point M1 G12 and connect with a straight line. From the point G12 the line Г12М1 right lay 15.5 cm (point Г22). From the point G12 down lay 8.5 cm (point Г2З). Point Г22 and Г2З connect the auxiliary straight line and divide it into three equal parts (points 1, 2). The perpendiculars from the points 1 and 2 delay periods: 1 - 11 = 3.2 cm; 2 - 21 = 2.2 cm Bottom middle line of a sleeve carried out through the points M1, Г22, 21, 11, Г2З.
  Especially the drawing of the shelves with sleeve (Fig. 73, b). Side cut the building vertically from a point G2; ГЗГ2 = 0,5 (SG + PG + Psov). Width of the bottom shelves equal to the segment ГЗГ4. Mouth width shelves а1А4 = A1A2 (on the back). The pockets are built on the vertical passing through the midpoint of the segment Т4Т7 (dot K71). К71К1 = 3 cm Length side pockets in frame with zipper К1К2 = 17 cm; К1К4 = 9.5 cm. length of the upper pocket in the frame: К3К4 = 15 cm.
The width of the left side of 8.5 cm Upper hinge located from the top of the cut side at a distance of 2 cm. Lower hinge a from the bottom of 10.5 cm From the point A41 on the continuation of the line of the shoulder А41П4 to the left lay the sleeve length with shoulder width plus 3.5 cm, i.e.
А41М2 = NR + Dr + 3.5 cm
The width of the sleeve of the shelf is determined on the perpendicular to the line А41М2 that intersects the line of the side cut Г2Н3 at the point Г24 and line sleeves А41М2 at the point P13.
Г24П1З = 23 - 1 + 2 = 24 cm
On the perpendicular from the point M2 to a straight А41М2 lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom М2МЗ = 22,5 - 1 + 2 = 23.5 cm Point M3 and Г24 connect with a straight line. From the point Г24 line Г24МЗ lay 15.5 cm (point Г25). From the point Г24 down lay 8.5 cm (point Г26). Point Г25 and Г26 connect the auxiliary straight line and divide it into three equal parts (points 1' and 2'). The perpendiculars from the points 1' and 2' lay segments: 1' - 11' = 3.2 cm; 2' - 21' = 2.2 cm Bottom middle line of a sleeve carried out through the points M3, Г25, 21', 11', Г26.On the sleeve pocket built into the frame, the upper end of the pocket (point K5) is placed on the midpoint of the segment П13Г24. The length of the pocket К5К6 = 15 cm lay on a straight line parallel to the line А41М2.

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 12 

To develop construction drawings of men's coats and jackets using the fashion magazines. Perform work in the order listed.

1. To make the description of the style of coat or jacket.

2. Take measurements with a particular shape.

3. To determine the allowances for free customized fit.

4. To determine the width of the sleeve under the armhole.

5. To calculate the width of the plots in the drawing.

6. Build a drawing of the layout of fabric to specific shapes.

7. Test fit layouts.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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