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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§6. Designing collars

The shape of the collar depends on the silhouette of the product. Most collars of men's clothes consists of a rack and departure. Stand depending on the model varies slightly and is a constructive element. The world's most volatile departure of the collar, which often has a decorative purpose.
 
Collars, depending on the design of the product is divided into the following groups: with an open closure, with Velcro side to the top, with a zipper top and an open cutting and neotrazimoi stand women's flat (Podkayne).
 
The main parameters in the design of the collars are line length vrachevanie collar and its width; length of line vrachevanie should correspond to the length of the neck.
 
Collars for products with open and zipper women's flat building in the drawing of the neck of the product, and the rest separately.
 
Collars can be rascepa without rascepa. Rascepa length (the distance from the fold line of the lapel to the shoulder) may be different and depends on the shape of a mouth, its depth or the model. The collars without rascepa the ledge of the lapel is moved to the fold line and aligned with the point of intersection of the fold line with the neck; the depth of the neck increases. Line vrachevanie collar without rascepa starts from the bend of the lapel.
 
 Collar business suit type. The collar is constructed in the neck of the product after you build the lapel crease line. From point L, hold tangent to the neck at the point F0 (see Fig. 24). At the intersection of the tangent with the line of the shoulder put a point S0. On the continuation of the direct Лз0 upward from a point S0 delay period equal to the length of the neck backless without seam allowance at the shoulder cut minus 0.5 cm quickdraw and put a point P1. From the point F0 with a radius of Ф0з1 hold the left arc. From the point Z1 to the left along the arc lay cut з1з2 equal to the height of the rack plus 0.5 cm for the jacket and 0.7 - 1 cm for a coat.Rack height coat 2 - 2.5 cm, coat - 3 - 3.5 cm Points of Z2 and F0 connect with a straight line. On the perpendicular from the point Z2 to the straight з2Ф0 consistently postpone stand height and width of departure.

Rack height з2з3 = 2 - 2,5 cm Width in the middle of the flight jacket - з3з4 = 4...4.5 cm; coat - з3з4 = 5...7 cm.
 
From the point з4 carried out perpendicular to the line з2з4 and lay cut з4з5 equal to 6,5 - 7 cm for jacket and 8 cm for a coat. Cut, equal to the width of the collar at the ends of the lay from the point of the ledge lapel A61 (point P6). The width of the collar ends and collar shape should generally correspond to the selected model. The length of the segment А61з6 in the drawing 4 - 5 cm (usually in jackets it is equal to the segment Л2А61).
 
Line vrachevanie collar carried out with a deflection from the middle of the straight з2Ф0 0.2 cm cut of the collar is carried out by deflection from the middle of the straight з5зб 0.3 - 0.5 cm Line of the rack passes from the point з3 parallel to the line of vrachevanie collar з2Ф0 with a smooth transition from a line stand collar to the fold line of the lapel.
 

 
 Collar business suit type in the neck angle. Line ЛФ0 up and continue from the point A41 lay cut А41з1 equal to the length of the sprout without allowance for the shoulder seam minus 0,5 - 0,7 cm quickdraw (Fig. 25). From the point F0 with a radius of Ф0з1 hold the left arc. From the point Z1 to the left along the arc of a delay line, is equal to the height of the rack plus 0.5 - 1 cm and put a point of Z2. The point Z2 and the A41 connect with a straight line. On the perpendicular from the point Z2 to the straight з2А41 consistently postpone з2з3 stand height and width of departure з3з4. From the point з4 lowered perpendicular to the line з2з4 and lay з4з5 = 5...7 cm for jacket and 8 cm for a coat.
 
The front part of the collar built in the same way as for a collar embedded in rounded neck. Line vrachevanie collar carried out with a deflection from the point Z2 to the point F0, departing from the point A41 of 0.5 - 0.7 see
 
 the features of the construction of the collar in the neck angle with a double-breasted lapel.Collar in the neck angle with a double-breasted lapel (Fig. 26) build on the basis of the collar to the neck angle with single breasted lapel. The width of the collar depends on the ends of the ledge lapel and shorter than its 0.5 - 1 cm А61з6 = А61Л3 - 0,5 - 1 cm.

The distance from the point P6 to the line of the ledge lapel 0 - 0.7 cm, but the width of the collar at the ends and its shape depend on the model and demands of fashion.
 

 
 Collar without rascepa. The collar is constructed similarly to the collar of the jacket type wherein the ledge of the lapel and collar are beginning at the intersection of the fold line of the lapel and neck (point f). Line stand collar extends from the point з3 to the point f (Fig. 27).
 
Collar without rascepa in the neck angle (Fig. 28) is very similar to the jacket type collar in the neck angle. The ledge of the lapel and collar of beginning located at the intersection of the fold line of the lapel and neckline. In the first and in the second case, the line of the neck deepens.
 


 The collar on the front. This collar (Fig. 29) used in the products of lapel without rascepa and build similar to the collar without rascepa (see Fig. 27). The width of the collar and its shape is determined in accordance with the model. The point of the ledge lapel A61 combined with point f located at the intersection of the fold line of the lapel with the neck.
 
The depth of the neck increases, moving further point A6 at 1 - 1.5 cm in jacket and 2 - 2.5 cm in coat.
 
To build a stand in front of the point f (A61) make a direct parallel to the mid-collar з2з4 and lay cut ФА62, equal to 1.5 - 2 cm in jacket and 2 - 2.5 cm in a coat or jacket. Points A62 and F0 connect a smooth line.

 Collar jackets type with zipper top. The drawing of the collar (Fig. 30) build a collar similar to the business suit type. Rack height is increased to be 3 - 4 cm + fashion. Width leaving 5 - 6cm + fashion. The width of the collar at the end determined by the model. Cut, equal to the width of the collar at the ends of the lay from the point A6. The point of the ledge lapel A61 coincides with point A6, which ensures the closure is not only open, but also closed to the top. The magnitude of the segments in the drawing:

з0з1 = length of the sprout (in the drawing of the back) is 1.5 cm;
з1з2 = rack height + 0,5 = 3 + 0,5 = 3,5 cm;
з2з3 = rack height = 3 cm;
з3з4 = width of flight = 5 cm;
з4з5 = 7 cm; А61з6 = 7.5 cm.
 

 
 Collar jacket with a detachable stand. The collar of the jacket with a cutting counter, are based on collar business suit type. To build a cutting stand (Fig. 31) from the point з3 radius з3Ф hold arc and point f on the arc lay stand height 2.5 cm (point B0). Point з3 and B0 connect a smooth line. From the point з3 through the middle of the collar lay cut з3В1 = з2з3. Point B1 and B0 connect a smooth line. Line protecive stand to go spend a few з3 and B0.

 Shawl collar. To build this collar from point D (Fig. 32) are on a tangent to the neck at the point F0. At the intersection of the tangent with the line of the shoulder put a point S0. On the continuation of the direct Лз0 upward from a point S0 delay period equal to the length of the neck with no seam allowance at the shoulder cut of the back minus 0.7 cm quickdraw and put a point P1. From the point F0 with a radius of Ф0з1 conduct an arc; from the point P1 to the left lay the cut з1з2 equal to the height of the rack plus 0.7 - 1 cm in a jacket and 1.5 - 2 cm per coat. In the drawing з1з2 = 2,5 + 0,7 = 3.2 cm
 
The points Z2 and F0 connect auxiliary line. From the point of Z2 raise perpendiculars to a straight з2Ф0 and from the point of Z2 lay cut з2з3 equal to the height of the stand (2.5 cm), and cut з3з4 equal to the width of the flight (4.7 cm). From the point A41 is carried out straight parallel to the line з2з4 where lay the cut А41з5 = з3з4 + 0,3 - 0,5 cm
 
Line external cut of the collar is carried out through з4 and H5 a smooth transition from the collar to the outer line of the cut of the lapel (shawl) through the point L2(P6). Line vrachevanie of collar from point Z2 to F0 is carried out with a slight SAG in the middle, equal to 0.2 see
 
From hard tissues shawl collar build with a large diversion in the direction of the shoulder of the cut; in this case, the cut з1з2 increase on 1 - 1,5 cm
 

 
 Shawl collar in the neck angle. To build this collar (Fig. 33) on the extension line passing through the points ЛА41 point A41 lay cut А41з1 equal to the length of the neck of the backrest (in the drawing - 0.7 cm).
 
Cut з1з2 equal to the height of the rack plus 0.7 - 1 cm in a jacket and 1.5 - 2 cm per coat. The point Z2 and the A41 connects the auxiliary line. From the point of Z2 raise up perpendicular to the line з2А41 and determine stand height and width of departure. Line vrachevanie collar hold a smooth line from the point Z2 to the point located to the right of point A41 0.5 cm with the transition to the neckline. From the point A41 is carried out straight parallel to the line з2з4 where lay the cut А41з5 = з2з4. The remaining construction is similar to a shawl collar at the round neckline.
 
 Designing of collars separate from the neck of the product. Design of collars, constructed separately from the neck of the product has the following concept. The building is at a right angle VOA. The segment S defines the height of the lifting rack, which depends on the shape and design of the collar. The higher the value of rise of the center, the more sloping is the collar.
 
Cut VA corresponds to the length of the neck from its middle to the point of the ledge of the lapel with a correction factor, which depends on the degree of curvature of the line of vrachevanie collar.
Depending on the design model, rack height and width of departure can be different sizes.
 


Fig. 34. Drawing a collar, with zipper top and cutting bar; b - bar neotrazimoi


 Collar with a detachable stand for products with zipper top and open. Build a right angle with the vertex at point O (Fig. 34, a). Up from point lay On the magnitude of the rise in the middle of the collar S. In the General case S = 4 cm From point b on the horizontal side of the angle, make a notch with a radius equal to the length of the neck backless and shelves minus value of K, depending on the deflection of the line of protecive stand to fly back (cut 1 - 2). At a deflection of 0.5 cm K = 0.5 to 0.8 cm; at a deflection of 1 cm K = 1...1.9 cm; at a deflection of 1.5 cm To=2...2.9 cm
 
Point B and connect a straight line and the middle dot 1. On the perpendicular from point lay 1 cut 1 - 2, equal to the segment 1 - 3 (1 - 1.5 cm for jackets). Points 2 and 3, And connect with soft curves.
 
Points In and And lower the perpendiculars to the line ISLANDS, which lay the segments BB1 and AA2 determining the height of stand (in our example, 2.5 cm). Line vrachevanie collar carried out with the deflection at the middle is equal to the deflection line of protecive stand between points 1 and 3.
 
Segment BB2, pending up on the continuation of the line S defines the width of the flight. Form of departure and the ends of the collar depends on the model. On the perpendicular from the point A3 to the right lay the cut А3А4. B our example А3А4 = 6 cm; BB2 = 6 cm.
 
The points A4 And connect with a straight line. For a better fit of the collar in the finished product along the lines of protecive stand to leave the front design a little tuck, leaving from point A up and down of 0.35 cm Length of tuck AA1 = 4.5 cm Side tuck call on the larger side. In the construction of external cut collar cut В2А5 = 5... 7 cm lay on the perpendicular to the line BB2. Points A5, A3 and A4 connect a smooth line. The design of the cut depends on flying style.
 
 Construction drawing of the collar with a zipper top and neotrazimoi stand.Build a right angle with the vertex at point O (Fig. 34,b), up which lay the amount of lift of the mid-collar of S (in our example S = 2 cm).
 
From point b on the horizontal side of the angle, make a notch with a radius equal to the length of the neckline minus 0.1 S (point a). Segment OA is divided into three parts: AA1 = OA/3. From point And hold up a perpendicular, on which lay cut AA2 = 1 cm Right from the point A2 at the horizontal lay cut А2А21 = 0.5 cm Line vrachevanie collar carried out with a smooth curve connecting the point A1 and A21.
 
Rack height BB1 in the middle coat, 2.5 - 3 cm, to coat 3 to 4 cm Width departure collar В1В2 in the middle coat of 4 - 5 cm, to coat 6 - 8 cm
 
From point A21 of radius equal to the height of the stand BB1 minus 0.5 cm, make a cut on the perpendicular, restored from a point A (point A31). Points B1 and A31 connect a smooth line. From point A31 on this perpendicular lay cut А31А3 equal to the width of the flight В1В2 plus 1 - 2 cm Overhang of the front end А3А4 = 6 cm ± fashion. The points A4 and A31 motorways connect direct.
 
To build the outer cut of the collar from point B2 is carried out perpendicular to the line ОВ2 and lay cut В2А5 = 7 see Point A5 and A4 connect a smooth line.

 Construction drawing of the stand-up collar. Build a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 35), up which lay the biggest lift stand collar AA2 = 1 - 3 cm From a point A2 on the horizontal side of the angle, make a notch with a radius equal to the length of the neckline minus 0,1АА2 and put the point B. the Line AB is divided in half (point A1), the lower edge of the rack hold a smooth line through the points A2, A1 and B.
 
From points To and A2 to the lines BA1 and A1A2 raise perpendiculars, on which lay the height of the rack BB1 = А2АЗ = 3... 4 cm, stand Height varies depending on model. Points B1 and A3 connect a smooth line. On the continuation lines В1А3 and BA2 to the right build mysyk, length and shape of which depend on style.
 

 
 Construction drawing of the collar with Velcro side to the top. Build a right angle with the vertex at point O (Fig. 36), which lay up the amount of mid-rise collar S = 1... 3 see
 
From point b on the horizontal side of the angle, make a notch with a radius equal to the length of the neckline minus 0.1 S, and put a point A. the line Segment OA is divided into three parts: AA1 = OA/3. From point A up raise a perpendicular, on which lay AA2 = 1, see the Setting of the collar draw a smooth line through the points, A1, A2.
 
Rack height in the middle BB1 2 - 2.5 for jackets, 3 to 4 cm for a coat. Width departure collar В1В2 in the middle of 4 - 5 cm for jacket, 6 - 15 cm for a coat.
 
On the perpendicular, restored from a point A, from point A2 up lay cut А2АЗ equal to the width of the collar in the middle minus 1 cm (it is not a constant and depends on style).
 
From the point A3 is carried out the horizontal and to the right lay the cut А3А4, the length of which varies depending on the angle of the ends of the departure of the collar. Points A2 and A4 connect direct. To build the outer cut of the collar from point B2 draw perpendicular lines ОВ2 and lay cut В2А5 = 5... 7 cm.
 
Points A5 and A4 connect a smooth line.

 Collar for winter coat with zipper top. Build a right angle with the vertex at point O (Fig. 37), up which lay the amount of mid-rise collar S = 8... 9 cm ± fashion. From point b on the horizontal side of the angle, make a notch with a radius equal to the length of the neck. Points In and And connect a straight line from the middle of raise a perpendicular, on which lay cut 3 - 4 = 2... 2.5 cm Line vrachevanie collar is carried out through the points, 4 and A.
 

 
Rack height BB1 = 4... 4.5 cm Width departure collar В1В2 = 10...14, see Building and departure ends of the collar depends on the model. In the General case from the point A to the straight VA raise a perpendicular, on which lay a segment AA3 = QQ2 - 1 see Point B2 and A3 connect a straight line from the middle of raise a perpendicular, on which lay leg 1 - 2 = 2...2,5 see the Points B2, 2, A3 connect the smooth line and its continuation lay cut А3А4 = 7...11 see

LABORATORY and PRACTICAL WORK 5

Option 1. To build a life-size collar in the rounded neckline in the neck angle.

Initial data: length of the neck backless and length of the neck of shelves jacket (size 50, the fullness of the second one).

Option 2. To build a life-size collar without rascepa in rounded neckline and at the mouth corner in a modern jacket.

Baseline: measurements with real character.

Option 3. To build a life-size collar cutting and neotrazimoi front.

Original data: the semi-fitted silhouette suit (size 50, second complete).

Option 4. Build the collar with zipper top and detachable stand.

Initial data: length of the neck backless and length of the neck of shelves of model blazer (size 52, second complete).

Option 5. Build a drawing of a shawl collar.

Original data: semilying silhouette jacket (size 50, the fullness of the second, the growth of IV).

SELF-ASSESSMENT 

1. How different collars according to the method of connecting them with the neck?
2. What groups are divided collars depending on the design decisions?
3. How to build a jacket type collar in the neck angle?
4. How to build a collar without rascepa?
5. Are changes made to the construction of the neck when you construct a collar without rascepa?
6. How to build a shawl collar?
7. What are the characteristics of winter building the collar?
8. How to build a collar with a zipper top?



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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