Sleeves varied in shape and different in number of parts. When the same shape of the sleeves in the finished number of stitches in the sleeve may be different.
One-piece sleeve has one seam (elbow or lower), and consists of a single part.
Double seam the sleeve has two seam (elbow and front or top and bottom seams) consists of two parts.
Flow sleeve has a seam three (top, front and ulna) - consists of three parts.
Bottom, elbow and front seams have a constructive purpose. Their arrangement is subject to certain rules. Location of the top seam on the visible outer side of the sleeve not only has a constructive purpose, but also decorative.
The most common in the top men's clothes are the usual double seam sleeves with elbow and front seams. On the basis of the double seam sleeves are constructed derivatives - one-piece, flow, etc. Sleeve is a major part of any shoulder items, especially the jacket.
Modern fabrics are complex processing, so the sleeve must have an optimum fit on the crown. Its width under armhole and the height of the crown should be in some way connected with the width and height of the openings of the product.
The most important in the design of the sleeves is to build top of the crown.
  Double seam of the sleeve. It consists of upper and lower halves and is based on a single drawing. Such a construction provides a full line of shapes and sizes of component parts of the sleeve.
The height of the top part of the sleeve first method is determined by the vertical diameter of the armhole, which is equal to 0.4, the sum of the distances in a straight line from points P2 (on the shoulder cut of the back) and P4 (on the shoulder cut shelves) to the line of armhole depth (see Fig. 5). The height of the crown Vok = 0,4(П2Г11 + П4Г4) + 0,7...1 see
The height of the crown should take into account the allowance for bending seam vrachevanie sleeves when suotuisan it to the side of the sleeve or to the overestimation of the crown sleeve, depending on the demands of fashion.
The amount of the allowance for bending of the seam equal to 0.3 - 1 cm, depending on the type of fabric. The height of the crown can be reduced by 1 - 2 cm in outwear-jackets, coats (for a better rise), this increases the allowance to the circumference of the shoulder.
When determining the height of the top part of the sleeve by the second method (see Fig. 5) linked to the depth of the armhole backrest and shelves. To do this, connect the outer ends of the shoulder sections P1 and P5 and direct from its middle (point O'1) carried down the vertical to the intersection with a line depth of the armhole (point G'8). The height of the crown Vok = O 1G'8 - 4 see
The height of the top part of the sleeve the third way linked to the length of the armhole. This method is used if the figure has no significant deviations from the model. In this case, the height of the crown is determined by the formula
Vok = DPR/3 + 0,7 cm.
The length of the openings measured on the drawing (excluding the value suteki armholes) or the rate of
DPR = 0,9 (Г11П2 + Г4П4 + PDS) is 0.5.
Segments Г11П2 and Г4П4 take without suteki.
Years of experience found that the length of the arm openings model is equal to the poluobhvat chest plus 3cm.
Along with the above methods, the determination of the height of the crown is produced using a vertical diameter hand Øвер (dimensional symptom 69): Wok = 1,2 Øвер + PS.PR.
The width of the sleeve under the armhole the first method depending on the arm circumference and the allowance to the circumference of the shoulder is determined by the formula
Sruk = 0,5 (Op + Pop).
The width of the sleeve under the armhole the second method is determined depending on the length, width, armholes, and rules of planting crown and sleeves fabric:
Sruk = 0,Z (DPR + PPOs + PDS).
The width of the sleeve under the armhole may also be determined in dependence on the width of the armhole
Sruk = PDS + 6 cm, 6 cm, then the sum of the two front rolls.
To check the correctness of the calculation of the width of the sleeve under the armhole desired (the first method) is compared with the width of the sleeve design (the second method) or with wide sleeves typical. If the width of the sleeve is less than the estimated desired, the sleeve built on design the width (the second or third method). If the sleeve width desired more calculated, determine the difference between them, multiplied by a constant number of 0.7 and the resulting value increase for the armhole openings through the shelves, moving the top side of the slice (G51).

Draw the sleeves start with a straight angle with vertex at the point O1 (Fig. 11). From point O1 to bottom vertically lay the segments defining:
the height of the crown
О1Рп = 0,4 (Г11П2 + Г4П4) + 0.7 cm;
the sleeve length on the line of front roll
О1М0 = Dr + Psov - 1.5 cm;
the level of the elbow
О1Л = 0.5 PD + 5 cm
The level of the elbow О1Л determine the division 5М0 cut in half. From the point M0 to the right horizontally lay 2 cm (point M). From points O1, RP, L and M to the left lay to the contour segments defining the width of the sleeve at the level of the top of the crown and under the armhole
О1О3 = CRL = Sruc ready + Psov - 1 cm, or О1ОЗ = Rprl - Sruc in finished form;
The width of the sleeve at the level of the elbow
ЛЛ2 = Rprl - 0.5 cm.
The height of the front notch on the top part of the sleeve determines the length of FP5 = Г4П7 on the armhole shelves (see Fig. 5).
The width of the bottom of the sleeves determined in two ways.
By way proportional to the width of the bottom sleeve from the poluobhvat chest SHN.owner = 0,2 SG + 5...5.5 cm.
By way proportional to the width of the bottom sleeve width sleeve the shelf on the height of the crown SHN.owner = 0.5 Sruk + 4.5 to 5 cm.
Depending on the model, the width of the bottom sleeve can be reduced or increased. From the point M (see Fig. 11) to the left, horizontally lay the cut that determines the width of the bottom of the sleeves (point M2) MM2 = 0.5 Sruk + 4,5 + Psov. To create the bevel of the bottom of the sleeves of the point M with radius MM2 hold down arc and the chord of the arc lay cut М2М3 = 2,5...3 see
The crown sleeve is built in the rectangle O1, RP, RL, OZ.
The top of crown point O2 is determined at the midpoint of the segment О1О3. A12 point lies on the midpoint of the segment О1О2.
Points A12 and 5 connect a straight line and from point 5 up delay period equal to 1/3 the length of the segment 5О12 (auxiliary point P9). Point O2 and P9 connect the auxiliary line. To determine the vertices of the elbow roll from point O3 on straight down OSRL lay cut ОЗО4 = О3Рл/3 - 0.5 cm Points O2 and O4 connect the auxiliary line. The auxiliary points 7 and 9 lie on the midpoints of the segments О2Р9 and О2О4 respectively.
Auxiliary point B1 is located on the bisector of the right angle О1РпРл: Рп61 = G42 - 0.2 cm (see Fig. 5).
From the point RP (see Fig. 11) to the left in a straight Rprl delay auxiliary point G'2 and P2.
RPG'2 = 0,5 PDS; РпР2 = PDS. .
Cut R212 = 0,25 PDS - 0.5 cm lies on the bisector of a right angle, with vertex in the point P2. Point O4 and 12 connect the auxiliary line.
The width of the elbow roll is determined on the perpendicular to the line О3Рл from point P6 (located from point O4 down to 2 - 2.5 cm) to the intersection with the line On412 at the point P8.
Thus, the points P6 and P8, moving up and down respectively on the direct О4Рл and About412 determine the width of the elbow roll, i.e. the length of a line Р6Р8.
To draw the crown on the perpendiculars from the points 7 and 9 lay the segments definition points 8 and 10.
7 - 8 = 0,1О2Р9 + 0.5 cm; 9 - 10 = 0,1О2О4 + 0.3 cm.
From the point P6 to the left lay a wide rolling elbow (point P7): Р6Р7 = Р6Р8.
From the point P8 on the continuation of the horizontal Р6Р8 right lay 1 cm from the obtained point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm (point R81). The R81 12 points and connect a smooth line.
The line of the top part of the sleeve is carried out through point P7, O4, 10, O2, 8, G9, 5, 61, 12 and P8.
For turning the top part of the sleeve to the right determine the position of auxiliary points Г21 and b.
РпГ21 = RPG'2; FP6 = Рп61.
Through points 5, 6, Г21 continue the line of the top part.
Width front roll ready РпР1 = LL1 = MM1 = 3 + 1 cm (for seam). Points L1 and R1, L1 and M1 connect the auxiliary straight. To the left of point L1 delay 0.5 cm and hold a smooth line connecting the points P1 and M1.
To build the elbow section of the upper halves of the sleeve from point RL to the left lay 1 cm on the ulnar joint (point Р61). From this point to the left lay the cut that defines the elbow roll through the height of the crown (point P3).
Р61Р3 = Р6Р7 - 1cm.
From the point L2 to the left lay 0.7 cm (point L3).
Through the points P7, P3, L3, M3 carry out a smooth line forming an elbow section of the upper halves of the sleeves. The length of the slots М3Ш = 7,5...8 cm; - the width of the slots ШШ1 = 1,5...2, see
note. Line About125 can move right and left from the midpoint О1О2, adjusting the head width of the crown, its thickness, changing the shape depending on the demands of fashion. 
Elbow roll at the top of the sleeve ranges from 1.5 to 2.5 cm depending on the change of the properties of the fabric in the process of wet-heat processing. The elbow roll is reduced, if the fabric treatment is complicated.
The position of the front edge of the lower halves of the sleeve to define segments РпР4, ЛЛ4 and ММ41 = 2, see Through the points L4 and P4 draw up to the intersection with the line of the crown at the point Р41. Aside from the point Р41 left and up to 1 cm, determine the position of a point P42 - tops front edge of the lower halves of the sleeves. The R42 12 points and connect a smooth line. From the point L4 to the left lay 0.5 cm, and through the points Р41 M41 and hold a smooth line.
To construct a line of the ulnar edge of the lower halves define the position of the points P5 and L5.
Р61Р5 = Р61Р3; Л2Л5 = Л2Л3.
Through points P8, P5, L5 to the point ø conduct smooth line of the ulnar edge of the lower half.
For a more precise definition of the width of the bottom halves of the sleeve at the level of the crown the width of the upper halves of the sleeves Р1Р3 and subtract it from the full width of the sleeve under the armhole unfolded.

  The distribution of landing on top part of sleeve. For proper connection of the sleeve with the armhole, they put marks (the notch), which should be combined with the setting sleeve (Fig. 12). The position of nasechek depends on the actual landing, which is defined as the difference between the length of the top part of the sleeves and the length of the closed openings after full processing.
PPOs = Doc - DPR.
The actual fit can be determined by drawing. In this case, the length of the open armhole be without seam and Stojko. The length of the openings measured from the point P1 to the point P5. The bottom nadrezkoj on the sleeve is the point 5. It corresponds to the armhole shelves point A7.

Armhole divided into five sections (table. 3): I - between points P5 and 4; II - 4 and A7; III - P7 and G2; IV - G2 and P3; V - P3 and P1.
Sleeve gusset pouches. The design flow of the developing sleeve based on the design of double seam set-in sleeves.

The upper half of the sleeve passes the middle line. To build the upper middle line of the sleeve from point O2 (Fig. 13, a) on the top part of the sleeve is carried out vertical to the intersection with the line Rprl in point O and with the line of the elbow at the point Л0. From the point M to the left along the hem of the sleeves lay cut ММ01 equal to half the width of the bottom of the sleeves. Point Л0 М01 and connect with a straight line.
To build seam at the upper middle line from point O2 to the left and right with a solution of 0.6 cm and length 6 cm is projecting a tuck in the top part. To create a slight convexity of the weld line grinding build with a smooth deflection to the left to the front of the sleeve and right to the back. Along the lines of grinding the upper halves of the sleeves give the seam.
  Sleeve double seam with the upper and lower the middle line, with elbow tuck. The design of this sleeve (Fig. 13, b) develop based on the design of double seam set-in sleeves.
Sleeve width at the level of the top of the crown О1О3 = Sruc.readythe width of the sleeve under the armhole BRL = О1ОЗ, sleeve width at the level of the elbow ЛЛ2 = CRL. Line the front of the roll passes through the point 5, RP, L, and M. the line of the top part of the lower half passes through the point 5, 61, G'2, 12, O4.
Turn the bottom halves of the sleeve is produced from the top of the middle line passing through the points O2, Oh, Л0, М01.
Build the top of the middle line. From point L to the right lay the cut LL1 = ЛЛ0.
The point A13 (top front of the slice) to find the intersection of two arcs: from point RP radius РпО21 and from point L with a radius of ЛО21. Point 5, b and A13 connect a smooth line. Point M1 (bottom front of the slice) to find the intersection of two arcs from the points M radius ММ01 and from point L with a radius of ЛМ01.
Point О1З and L1, and L1 and M1 connect as straight lines. If the sleeve is made of fabric, amenable to wet-heat treatment, from the point L1 to the left lay 2 cm, connecting point A13, and M1 is a smooth concave line. For guys front of the cut line cut О13М1: М1М11 = 1,5...2, see Point M11 and M direct connect. From the point L2 to the left lay the cut Л2ЛЗ = Л2Л0. The point About'13 (top rear of the slice) to find the intersection of two arcs: from point RL to a radius of РлО21 from the point L2 with a radius of Л2О21.Point M31 (bottom rear section) to find the intersection of two arcs: from point M3 radius МЗМ01 from the point L2 with a radius of Л2М01. The point About'13 and L3, as well as M31 and L3 connect the straight lines.
To determine the solution of the elbow tuck point M31 conduct an arc of radius Л0М01, and from the point Л0 Л0Л3 radius, a second arc, and at the intersection of two arcs put a point Л31. Point Л31 and L2 connect with a straight line. Cut ЛЗЛ31 determines the solution of the elbow tuck. The elbow cut is carried out a smooth line. The allowances are given as at the upper middle line and to the front and elbow sections.
  The one-piece sleeve with elbow seam. Sleeve one-piece build on the basis of the double seam of the sleeve. Spend two mutually perpendicular lines, denoting the point of intersection with the letter RP (Fig. 13). The height of the top part of the sleeve lay up from point RP:
РпО1 = 0,4 (Г11П2 + Г4П4) + 0.5 cm (see Fig. 5).
From the point O1 (see Fig. 13) lay down the length of the sleeve at the line of front roll О1М = Dr + Psov - 1.5 cm; determine the line of the elbow О1Л = 0.5 PD + 5 cm; the height of the notch FP5 = Г4П7 (see Fig. 5).
To build crown the top of the sleeve define: the width of the sleeve at the level of the height of the crown О1О3 = Sruc.ready; the width of the sleeve under the armhole BRL = О1О3; the top of the crown (the point O2) О1О2 = О1О3/2; auxiliary point A12: О1О12 = О1О2/2; auxiliary point P9. 5Р9 = ABOUT125/3; the top of the elbow roll О3О4 = О3Рл/3 - 0.5 cm; the width of the elbow roll Р6Р7 = 2.5 cm; segments definition points 8 and 10:
7 - 8 = 0,1О2Р9 + 0.5 cm; 9 - 10 = 0,1О2О4 + 0.3 cm.
The upper crown is carried through the points 5, P9, 8, O2, 10, O4, P7.
Width at the elbow ЛЛ2 = Rprl - 0.5 cm; Л2Л3 = 0,7 cm Width of hem MM2 = Sruc.ready + Psov. Bevel sleeves М2М3 = 2,5...3 see Point P7, L3 and M3 connect a smooth line.
In the rectangle О1О'3Р'PLR determine the number of support points to build the bottom of the top part of the sleeve.
O 3O'4 = О3О4; O 4P'6 = О4Р6; R 6Р8 = Р6Р7.
From the point RP to the right lay the RPG'2 = 0,5 PDS; РпР2 = PDS; R212 = 0,25 PDS - 0.5 cm; FP6 = Рп61.
The line of the crown is carried through the points: 6, 12, P8, somewhat below the point G'2.
To the left and upward from the point P8 postpone 1 cm and put a point R81. The R81 12 points and connect a smooth line. From point L to the right lay ЛЛ5 = ЛЛ3 - 1,5 cm Width of bottom MM'2 = MM2. Bevel the bottom of the sleeves M 2M'3 = М2М3.
Through the height of the crown to the left from point R l lay 1 cm (point R5).

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 4 

V a R I a n t 1. Build a drawing of the double seam set-in sleeves.
The original data, see: SG = 50 (figure, model); PD = 63; Op = 32;.in = 10.
V a R I a NT 2. Build a drawing of the double seam of the sleeve with upper and lower the middle line.
The original data, see: SG = 54 (curly model); PD = 63; Op = 34;.n = 10.
V a R I a n t 3. To build a framework drawing of the jacket on a real figure without any significant deviations from the model. To make a preliminary calculation. To build the backrest, shelf and double seam set-in sleeve. Fabricate sleeves from the mock-up fabric. To votati sleeves in the Foundation of his jacket.

SELF-ASSESSMENT 

1. What baseline data are necessary to build a sleeve?
2. What methods are used to determine the height of the top part of the sleeve?
3. What are the main differences of the methods of determining the height of the top part of the sleeve?
4. What methods are used to determine the width of the sleeve under the armhole?
5. What are the main differences of the ways of determining the width of the sleeve under the armhole?
6. How is the width of the bottom of the sleeves?
7. How is upper middle line into the sleeve?
8. How to construct a one-piece sleeve?
9. Is it possible for the arm circumference to determine the width of the openings?
10. What determines the width of the sleeve under the armhole?
11. What points on the sleeve and the armhole combined with vetiveria sleeves?
12. How to allocate normal landing on top part when matiwane sleeve in the armhole?