For people with a full figure in the creation of product drawing you need to take into account the protrusion of the abdomen.
To do this, introduce the overall average coefficient for all sizes all widths., which is determined by the sum of the average coefficients of the first and second Polnochnyj groups, divided by two
Kobsch.middle = (К1полн.middle + К2полн.middle)/2 = (8,5 + 2,5)/2 = 5,5 see
The amount is the belly equal to 0.5(St + Kobsch.middle - SG) .
In the body type full-figured men are divided (according to the materials ZOTTL) on three options.
 

I option body (Fig. 97, a). Measure the width of back and width of the chest close to or match the dimensions of standard shapes; a protrusion of the abdomen at waist level or slightly below; the bulge her Breasts were small, the buttocks do not touch the vertical passing tangent to the projection of the blades.
Option II body (Fig. 97, b). Chest width slightly greater than the width of the back, the chest high and expanded; the protrusion of the abdomen is located above the level of the waist line, the deflection at the waist line is increased, the buttocks protruding.
Variant III body (Fig. 97, in). A sunken chest and a broad back with exposed blades, the protrusion of the abdomen below the level of the waist, buttocks flat, slouch pronounced.
Measuring the width of the front at the level of the protrusion of the abdomen SHP.well, you need to determine the shape of the abdomen. Have full figures 1 variant, as a rule, the belly bulge is evenly distributed through the SHP measurement.well. Have full figures 11 variant of the most of belly bulge is concentrated at the level of the midsagittal line in front. Have full figures III variant front belly flattened, greatest convexity is shifted to the sides.
During the construction of the jacket and shoulder other products it is necessary to consider the nature of the shape of the abdomen.
The main dimensions of the shape to build a structure jacket full figure with protruding abdomen additionally determine the level of protrusion of the stomach SW.W (the distance from the horizontal cord on the waist line to the most protruding point of the abdomen) and width of the front at the level of the protrusion of the abdomen SHP.W (the horizontal distance at the level of the most projecting area of the abdomen between the verticals, held down from the front corners armpits).
To determine the protrusion of the abdomen Vzh except the width of the front belly of SHP.W determines the width of the chest of the second SG (SG horizontally through the nipple point between verticals from front angles of armpits), i.e. Eng = SHP.W - SG.
Protrusion of the stomach may be determined based GT:
Vzh = 0,5(St + GT - SG).
The back of the jacket full figure is constructed in the usual way, but depending on the variant body shapes of the deflection of the middle line of the back at the level of the waist line changes. When I ТТ1 version = 2 cm In the second embodiment, where the deflection at the waist line is increased, and buttocks bulging, ТТ1 = 2 - 0,5 = 1,5 cm In the third embodiment where the buttocks are flat, ТТ1 = 2 + 0,5 = 2,5 cm
In the presence of fat in the cervical point of the width of the neck backless increase of 0.7 cm:
А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.throat + 0,7 cm.
The height of the neck backless slim 0.5 cm:
A1A2 = А01А1/3 + PN - 0.5 cm.
  Shelf jacket for the fuller figure I variant with the protrusion of the abdomen at the level of the waist line.The cylindrical shape of the abdomen. Protrusion of the abdomen is uniformly distributed through the SHP measurement.well.
Pre-calculate the projection of the abdomen:
Vzh = 0,5(St + K - SG).
 

In our example, SG = 58 cm; St = 57 cm In this case, Vzh = 0,5(57 + 5,5 - 58) = 2,2 see If the belly bulge is evenly distributed through the SHP measurement.well, half of the protrusion of the abdomen (a 2.2/2 = 1.1 cm) delay from the point T8 to the right (Fig. 98, a) and put a point kzt81. Point kzt81, G3 and connect a straight line. From the point of kzt81 down parallel to the vertical direction from point A1 draw to the intersection with the line of the hips at the point Б81 and underline the point Н51. This lengthening line of prosanos Н4Н5 = 3 cm.
To determine the highest point of the neck A41 find the position of points A3, A4 and T4:
А3А4 = А01А1 + 1 cm; Т81Т4 = АЗА4.
Points T4 and A4 connect straight where you point T4 up lay cut Т4А41 = Dt.p + 3.5 cm Depth of the neck lay the point down the A41 on a straight А41Т4 (point A5). Angle suteki build in the usual way.
To build a tuck in the side pocket of point K1 of radius К1Т81 conduct an arc across the line, an extension line of the side pocket. From the point K1 to the left and at the intersection of dot K62. From the point K62 up the chord of the arc delay period equal to the protrusion of the abdomen Vzh, and put a point K52. Points K1 and K52 connect with a straight line. On the chest lay the cut Г4Г41 = 3.5 cm
Through the point Г41 is carried out vertical to the waist line (point T5), T5 from the point on the waist line to the left lay the cut Т5Т51 1/2 Eng. Point Г41 and Kzt51. connect with a straight line. From the point of Kzt51. down parallel to the vertical from point A2 is carried out straight until the intersection with the line of pocket at the point of K51. Point K1 K51 and connect with a straight line.
To build a front tuck from a point K1 to the left of the line pocket lay 1 cm (point K11). Solution front tuck К11К12 = 1 cm; solution front tuck on the waist line - 0. Right side tuck is built vertically from the point K11. The top of the tuck is indicated by the point B.
Such a construction of the front tuck provides a uniform bulge on the stomach, located at the level of the waist line.
To build additional tuck in the side pocket from a point At radius ВК51 conduct an arc to the left up, the second arc is conducted from the point of K12 radius К11К51. The intersection of the arcs refer To the'51. Point To the'51 connect the straight lines with dots Kzt51. and K12. From the point K11 to the left of the line К11К62 lay cut К11К61 equal to the length of the segment К12К'51. Through the point К61 the vertical hold down to the hip line and at the intersection of the dot B4.
To build a detachable barrel from point K51 radius К1К62 conduct an arc up and to the left at the intersection with the straight Г41Т5 put a point x2. From her left along the chord of the arc, delaying the solution of the projection of the abdomen К52К62 and put a point J3, i.e. Ж2Ж3 = К52К62. Through the points K51 and J3 to draw the chest line and at the intersection of the dot Г42.
The width of the shelves on the hip line lay from the point Б81.
Б81Б3 = (SB + P6 + Psov) - Б1Б2.
The width of the barrel Г42Г5 = PDS - (Г11Г5 + Г4Г41). The deflection of the side cut on the waist line ТЗТЗ1 = 0,7...1 cm Lateral slice is carried out through G5, ТЗ1 and B3 to the horizontal extending from point H4.
The bottom line is carried out, connect the dots Н51 and N3. Inner barrel cut from point K51 passes down vertically to the bottom line, intersect at a point Н31. The line passing through the points К61Б4, extend from the hem to 1/2 of the solution tucks into a side pocket on the line К61Б4 and put a point НЗ2. The magnitude of the second half of this solution point is moved up Kzt51. line Т51Г41 to the point Т52. By the same amount up elongates the line passing through the points Kzt51. and Г41.
  Shelf jacket for the fuller figure II variant with the protrusion of the stomach above the level of the waist line. Belly bulge is concentrated at the level of the midsagittal line in front. Pre-calculate the projection of the abdomen. Determine the level of protrusion of the stomach above the waist line and draw parallel to the waist line; to the intersection with the line а1Н5 (Fig. 98, b) put a point T80, with the vertical from point Г41 - point Т83. 2/3 of the protrusion of the abdomen lay Eng from the point of T80 to the right (point Т82). To the left from point lay Т83 1/3 Eng (point Т84). Line polutanata carried out, connect the dots Т82 and G3 line.From the point Т82 spend straight down parallel to the vertical direction from point A1 at the intersection with the bottom line put a point Н51. Point A4 is determined, dividing the segment A1A2 in half. Through the point A4 draw to the level of protrusion of the belly parallel to the line ГЗТ82 and down to the waist line parallel to the line Т80Н5. On this broken line from point T4 delay Dt.p + 3.5 cm and put a point A41. Point Г41 and Т84 connect direct. From the point Т84 spend straight down parallel to the vertical from the point A2 to the intersection line at the point К1К52 K51.
After you build the front tuck and optional solution tuck in the side pocket point To the'51 and Т84 connect direct. The total solution tucks into a side pocket of distribute from points НЗ1 and Г41 equally.
 Note. When high and expanded the chest to the tuck design to the neck of the shelves. The method of constructing the Darts given §4, CH. III.
  Shelf jacket for the fuller figure III variant with the protrusion of the abdomen below the level of the waist line. Abdomen flattened in front, the greatest convexity is shifted to the sides. Determine the level of protrusion of the abdomen below the waist and is carried out parallel to the waist line a line that intersects the vertical line from the point A1 (Fig. 98 in) to the T80 point, and from point Г41 - point Т83. From the point T80 lay right 1/3 Eng (point Т82). To the left from point lay Т83 2/3 Eng (point Т84). Point Т84 and Г41 direct connect and its intersection with a line К1К52 dot K51. Abstraction barrel Ж2Ж3 equal to the protrusion of the abdomen Eng. The barrel line from point K51 carried down vertically to the bottom line.
  Features of construction of trousers for the fuller figure with protruding abdomen (see Fig. 82). You must determine the amount of protrusion of the belly by the formula
Vzh = 0,4(St + K SG), where K - coefficient equal to 7 cm. 
In order that the pants were comfortable to wear, the seat height do not increase. This is achieved by reducing the seat height by the amount of protrusion of the abdomen followed by the addition of this value to the length of the bow when it was built. In this case:
CHA = SB/2 - 2 - Eng.
After building the top of the front halves of trousers the length of the bow line Б2Т2 increase in Vzh, i.e. Т2Т21 = Eng.
Point T21 is moved to the right along a horizontal line at a distance Т21Т22 = 0,5Т2Т21, the cut Б5Т5 = Б2Т2.
Allowance at the hip line Pb is distributed to the front and rear halves of the pants: to the front - 1/3 Pb, to the rear - 2/3 IB.
When building the front halves of trousers for the fuller figure point T1 on the side cut up don't move.

LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK 19 

To develop the design of the shoulder products full-figure II and III variants. To make models, try them on the figure. To analyze the results.

SELF-ASSESSMENT

1. What methods of determination of the protrusion of the stomach you know?

2. How is the average factor for the calculation of the projection of the abdomen?

3. Are classified as full figure physique?

4. What features of construction of the jacket for the fuller figure with the protrusion of the abdomen at the waist line, above or below waist line?

5. How to build a sectional side full-figure with a projection of the abdomen?

6. How cut ТТ1 on the back depending on the extent and location of the stomach?