To build the basics of straight line coat takes into account the seam allowance on the chest PG = 11 - 12 cm, which may vary depending on the demands of fashion. The width of the armhole of the coat is greater than the width of the openings of the jacket 1 - 1.5 cm.

  The width of the armhole of the coat on the model figure 

Size 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Normal width of the armhole, cm 14,7 15,3 15,9 16,5 17,1 17,7 18,3 18,9
The minimum width of the armhole, cm 14,2 14,8 15,4 16,0 16,6 17,2 17,8 18,4

The procedure for calculating design basis straight line coat. Size 176 - 100 - 88.

Measurements for the preliminary calculation of the design, see:

C = 20,5 Dt.p = 55.6 Dr = 64
SG = 50 Loop = 20,4 Op = 32
St = 44 Dt.C = 45,5 CDF.W (or WB) = 21,5
SB = 52 Di = DSH.to + fashion
SHG = 19,2 SHP = 15,5

Allowances for free customized fit, see:

PG = 12 PD.t.p = 2,4
PS.PR = 4...5 PN.throats.C = 2
PD.t.C = 1.5.n = 12...13

the Allowances for free customized fit for the parts of the frame needed to construct a drawing, taken from § 4, Chapter II.
Some allowances may be used according to the recommendations of modeling organizations.

The distribution of the measurements at SG sites: the width of the back Zone, to the area of the openings of the UPR and the width of the chest CG:
SG = SS + UPR + CG;
UPR = CR - (RC + CC).

The width of the sleeve under the armhole
SROC = (Op.p)/2.

The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in the plots: the width of the backrest PN.with the width of the openings of PN.PR, the width of the chest PN.g, i.e.
PG = PN.+ PN.PR + PN.g.

The area of the openings give the part of the total stock of GHGs, which ensures the normal width of the openings. The rest of the seam allowance PG distributed: 0,6 - width of the back; 0,4 - to the width of the chest.

If the total allowance on the chest of PG to coat is not less than 10 cm, it is distributed in the following percentages: the width of the backrest 25 - 30 %, the area of the openings 55 and 45 %, of the width of chest 20 - 25 %.

Determines the width of the areas on the drawing:
backless - SHS +PN.with + Pshow;
armhole - UPR + PN.PR + Pshow;
shelves - CG + PN.g + Psov.

Calculation of posture OS = Dt.p - Dt.with.

Setting the width of the areas on the drawing and calculating the posture of the figure, proceed to the construction drawing design.

 Note. When determining the width of the plots in the drawing, the width of the openings remains the calculated, if the shoulder girth of the customer is not more typical. Otherwise, the width of the openings additionally extend to 0.7 of the difference between the width of the sleeves and the actual model.
 To save the adjusted total allowance for the chest change the width of the openings by changing the width of the back or shelves (or both). According to the decision of cutting the total allowance on the chest of PG can be increased.

 Construction drawing of the back. Build a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 38), from her upside down lay the cut at defining the level of the waist line at = Dt.+ PD.t.with. Depending on the fashion the position of the waist line relative to the point T may vary within ±2 cm.

On the measurement of the CDF.s the level of the chest is measured by the length
AG = the CDF.s + PS.PR (to coat the SS.PR = 4...5 cm).

On measurement of the height of the barrel, VB the level of the breast line is defined as follows:
TG = B6 + PD.t.s - PS.PR, or TG = WB - 2.5 if PD.t.C = 1,5; PS.PR = 4 cm.

The blades and the beginning of the bevel of the middle line of the back of AU = 0,3 Dt.with.

The hips TB = 0,5 Dt.- 3,5 cm

Length coat EN = DS.K + PD.t.C ± fashion. In conditions tailor-made length tailor agrees with the customer on the basis of fashion trends.

Up from point A in the prolongation of the vertical lay cut АА0 = 0,7...1 cm From the points A, G, T, B, N right conduct horizontal straight lines.

If the back is split with a seam, the middle line of the back in the upper part is withdrawn and the right of the point A0 of 0.7 cm (А0А01 = 0.7 cm). The deflection of the middle line of the back ТТ1 = 1,5...2, see Allocating the midline of the back at the level of convexity of the blades UU'1 = 0.3 cm.

The middle line of the back is carried out through the points A01, Y'1, T1 to the intersection with the horizontal line drawn from the point N. At the intersection of the middle line with the line of the chest dot G10, with waist - point T1 line and hips - B1, with a horizontal line drawn from the point N, point H1. If the back is solid one piece, then the middle line of the back is carried out through points A0 and T1 straight to the bottom line. The deflection ТТ1 = 1...1.5 cm Width of the backrest in accordance with a preliminary calculation delay from point A and G10 right contours to points a and G11, i.e., AA = Г10Г11.

Neck backless built on the perpendicular drawn from the point A01 to the line А01У. Width of the neck backless (Rostock) А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.throats.with.

The height of the neck backless A1A2 = А01А1/3 + PN. The neckline of the back is carried out through the points A01 and A2.

To construct a line shoulder cut determine the height of the armhole of the backrest (point P2).

The height of the armhole of the backrest Г11П2 determined by the length of the arc drawn through the highest point of the shoulder joint DD, subject to the total allowance.

Г11П2 = 0,5 DD + 7 cm, 7 cm, then the amount of allowances: to free openings (4 cm), Stojko (1.5 cm), shoulder pad (0.8 cm), the rounding of the back in the upper part (0.7 cm).

From the point A2 down the neck lay 1 cm (point A20). Through the points A20 and A2 is carried out straight where you point the A20 lay length shoulder seam General allowance.

А20П1 = SHD + 2.5 cm, where 2.5 cm is the sum of the allowances: by lengthening the shoulder seam (0.5 cm) seam (1 cm), Stojko (1 cm). 

 Note. The method of determining position of point P2 for constructing the shoulder line is given in § 3, Chapter III and used in the construction of the backrest, taking into account total allowances for coats. In the first method Т41П2 = ВпК1 + 4.5 cm; in the second method Т0П2 = VPK + 4.5 cm

To draw a line armholes in addition to the shoulder points determine the position of the auxiliary point P3, 1 and G2. Point P3 is located at the intersection of the horizontal line from the point and direct Г11а, point 1 is on the bisector of the angle П3Г11Г5. Point G2 is located on the middle of the openings, i.e. Г11Г2 = 0,5 PDS. The line of openings is carried out through the points P1, P3, 1 and G2.

Side cut back on the chest determine the cut Г11Г5 = 2,5...3,5 cm Wide hem backless aside from the point H1 on the perpendicular from the point H1 to the direct Т1Н1. Width of the bottom of the back Н1Н2 = Г10Г5. Through the points G5 and H2 hold a line that intersects with the line of openings in the G51 point, waist at the point T21. From the point T21 to the left lay 1 cm (point T2). Finally, the lateral cut of the back is carried out through G51, T2 and H2.

The length of the slots depends mainly on the model. Model length slots 0,STAN, the width of the slots 5 - 6 cm.

 Construction drawing of the shelves. Build a right angle with the vertex at point A1 (see Fig. 38). Down the vertical line segments sequentially delay: а1Г3 = AG; а1Т8 = at; Т8Б8 = TB; а1Н4 = an. From the points carried out to the left horizontally. Chest width on the drawing Г3Г4 = A1A2.

From point A2 is carried out vertical down to the intersection with the waist line at point T7. The highest point of the breast on the chest determine the cut Г3Г6 = 0,5Г3Г4 + 1 see

The width of the armhole on the drawing, shelves Г4Г5 = PDS - Г11Г5 (drawing back).

Width of the bottom shelves Н4Н'3 = Г3Г5 + 2 see

Through the points G5 and N'3 draw a line that intersects the waist line at point T3. From the point G5 up on the continuation of the line Н3Г5 lay cut Г5Г51. From the point G51 down the line Г51Н'3 lay the cut Г51Н3 = Г51Н2 (on the back).

Lowering the line polutanata а1Н4 point-down N4 is 2 - 2.5 cm (point D5). Point N5 and N3 connect with a straight line. The deflection of the midpoint of a line НЗН5 is 0.3 - 0.5 cm On the line side of the cut shelves from the point T3 to the right lay 1 cm (point ТЗ1). Finally, the lateral cut is performed through the point G51, T31 N3.

The position of the highest point of the chest is determined by the cut Г6Г7 = PS.PR.

To build angle through the point suteki G7 to the right is carried out perpendicular to the intersection line polutanata (point G8). Point upward from the G8 lay cut Г8Г81 = 0,05Г3Г4 + 0.5 cm From point Г81 raise a perpendicular to a straight Г7Г81 and on crossing it with a horizontal line drawn from the point A1, put the point A3.

Mouth width А3А4 = А01А1 + 1 see

Through the point A4 of the vertical hold down to the intersection with the waist line (point T4), which is up on vertical lay cut Т4А41 that defines the highest point of the neck of shelves:
Т4А41 = Dt.p + PD.t.p + PD.t.with + Pshow = Dt.p + 2,5 + 1,5 + 1 = Dt.p + 5 cm

The highest point of the neck Т4А41 also determine with the help of cut Dt.p:
Т4А41 = Dt.n - (0,4 SSH + 2,4) + 5 = Dt.p - School is 0.4 to 2.4 + 5 cm

From this it follows that Т4А41 = Dt.p - School is 0.4 + 2.6 cm If the fabric is thin and coats of PD.t.p = 2 cm Т4А41 = Dt.p - SSH 0,4 + 2,1 see

The highest point of the neck can determine the cut А4А41, which also determines the size of the balance products:
А4А41 = Dt.p - 0,4 SSH - Dt.+ 0 5.

The depth of the neck А41А5 = SSH 0,4 ± fashion. From point A5 to the right hold is perpendicular to the line А41А5 to the intersection with the line of prosanos (point AB). To draw the neckline from the point A5 lay 2.5 cm (point A60). Point AB A60 and connect auxiliary line. The neckline is drawn, as shown in the drawing.

The height of the armhole shelves Г4П4 determined by the measurement of the arc through the highest point of the shoulder joint D, with the common stock:
Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 6.5 cm, 6.5 cm where - the amount of allowances: to free openings (4 cm), shoulder pad (0.8 cm), rounding the underlying layers coat at the top of the shelves (1.7 cm).

The length of the shoulder cut with a seam allowance aside from the point A41: А41П50 = SHP + Psov. Point P50 A41 and connect with a straight line. The slant of the shoulder line cuts from the point P4 is П50П5 = 0,5...0,7, see Points P4 and P5 connect direct.

The portion of the humerus of the cut А41П4 spend slightly concave line.

To build a line of openings determine the position of a number of subsidiary points:

the touch point of the armhole line Г4П4 point P6
Г4П6 = 0,25Г4П4 + 0.5 cm;

point 2 on the bisector of the angle П6Г4Г5
    G42 = 0,25 PDS - 1.5 cm;

point 3 is the midpoint of the segment П5П6
П53 = 0,5П5П6,

to the right of point 3 on the perpendicular bisector to the segment П5П6 lay 1 cm (point 4);
the middle of the armhole - point G2
Г4Г2 = 0,5 PDS.

Point Г52 determine, aside from the point G51 right and up 1, see the Line of openings is carried out through point P5, 4, P6, 2, G2, Г52. A connection point of the top part of the sleeve with the armhole is determined, aside from the point P6 down the armhole cut П6П7 equal to 1/3 Г4Пб.

As well as in the jacket, Stojko armhole shelves are not designed. The side pocket height is determined by the cut Т7К on the continuation of the vertical а2Т7
Т7К = 0,25 Dt.s - 3,5...4,5 see

Line slit pocket build with a slight slope. To do this, from the point T8 down the line of prosanos lay cut Т8К0 = Т7К + 1.5 cm Through the points K0 and draw where you are building the pocket. The slot length of pocket = 0.2 SG + 6,5...7 see In mass production the length of the slot pocket is unified: to articles 44 - 48 of the sizes it is equal to 16 cm, 50 - 54 size - 17 cm and 56 - 64 size - 18 cm

Position the front of the pocket is measured by the length KK1 = 0,5К1К2 + 1.5 cm.

Fig. 39. Drawing shelves straight silhouette with side tuck

 Features of construction of the shelves a coat of a direct silhouette with side tuck. In the preliminary calculations to the width of the openings (Fig. 39) was added a solution side tuck, equal to 1.5 - 2 cm When building the side tuck determine its position on the chest line and the side line of the pocket:
Г4Г41 = 0,25 PDS, if PDS = 16 cm, Г4Г41 = 0,25 x 16 = 4 cm;
КК5 = Г4Г41 = 4 cm.

Point Г41 K5 and connect with a straight line that intersects the waist line at point T5. Solution side Darts at the breast line Г41Г42 = 1,5...2 cm From the point T5 to the right lay one half of the solution side tuck on the waist line. Right side tuck passes through the point Г41, T6, K5. Left side tuck style, as shown in the drawing.