Design basics coat semi-fitted silhouette is not fundamentally different from the basis of a jacket semi-fitted silhouette.
Coat semi-fitted silhouette on the model figure. Size 180 - 100 - 88.
Measurements for the preliminary calculation of the design, see:

SSH =20,5 Dt.p = 55.6 Dr = 64
SG = 50 Loop = 20,4 Op ≈ 32
St = 44 Dt.C = 45,5 CDF.z ≈ 21,5
SB = 52 Di = DSH.to±fashion DP ≈ 36
SHP ≈ 16

Note. Measuring shoulder width for coats increased by 0.5 cm.

Allowances for free customized fit, see:

PG = 10,1 PS.PR = 4...5 PN.throats.C = 2
PN = 9...9 5 PD.t.C = 1.5.p = 12
Pb = 8...9 PD.t.p = 2...2,5

The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the width of the back of 20.4; the width of the shelves is 19.2; the width of the openings 50 to (20,4 + 19,2) = 10,4 cm
Sleeve width, SROC = (Op.p)/2 = (32 + 12)/2 = 22 see
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in the plots, cm; the width of the openings of 5.6; the width of the back is 2.5; the width of the chest - 2.
 

Width of the plots in the drawing (Fig. 40):
Г10Г11 = RC + PN.with + Pshow = 20,4 + 2,5 + 1 = 23,9 = 24 cm
Г11Г4 = Shu.PR + PN.PR = 10,4 + 5,6 = 16 cm;
Г3Г4 = CG + PN.g + Pshow = 19,2 + 2 + 1 = 22,2 cm
Posture OS = Dt.p - Dt.C = 45 - 45,5 = - 0.5 cm.
OS = ±0.5 cm is not taken into account.
  Construction drawing of the back. The level of the waist line is determined by the segment AG = VLOOKUP.s + PS.PR = 21,5 + 4 = 25,5 cm
The level of convexity of the blades is determined by the segment Y = 0,HWP.C = 0,Z x 45.5 = 13,6 cm
The greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles is determined by the segment TB = 0,5 Dt.- 3,5 cm
From point A upwards and to the right lay the segments: АА0 = 1 cm; А0А01 = 0,7 cm.
The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line is measured by the length ТТ1 = 2...2.5 cm.
The diversion of the middle line of the back to the hem is measured by the length НН1 = 2...2.5 cm.
The diversion of the middle line of the back at the level of convexity of the blades is determined by the segment UU'1 = 0.3 cm.
The middle line of the back is carried out through the points A01, Y'1, T1 and H1. At the intersection with the line of the chest dot G10, with a line of hip point B1.
The width of the back at the level of the waist line is determined by the segment Г10Г11:
Т1Т2 = Г10Г11 - 4 = 24 - 4 = 20 cm.
The width of the back at the level of the hip line is determined by the segment Т1Т2:
Б1Б2 = Т1Т2 + 0,5...1 = 20 + 0,5...1 = 20,5...21 see
The width of the neck backless define cut
А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.throats.C = 20,5/3 + 2 = 8,7 cm
The height of the neck backless define cut
A1A2 = А01А1/3 + Pshow = 8,7/3 + 1 = 3.9 cm
The height of the armhole of the backrest Г11П2 determined by the length of the arc through the highest point of the shoulder joint. D. taking into account the total allowance
Г11П2 = 0,5 DP + 7 = 0.5 x 18 + 7 = 16 cm,7 where sm - the sum of allowances: to free openings (4 cm); sturko (1.5 cm); shoulder pad (0.8 cm); the rounding of the back in the upper part (0.7 cm). 
Length shoulder seam А20П1 = SPL + PST + Pshow = 16 + 1 + 1 = 18 cm.
To build a line of openings determine the position of a number of subsidiary points:
point P3 is located at the intersection of the horizontal line drawn from the point y and the straight Г11а;
point 1 lies on the bisector of the angle П3Г11Г5
    G111 = PDS 0,25 = 0,25 x 16 = 4 cm;
point G2 is lying on the chest
Г11Г2 = 0,5 PDS = 0.5 x 16 = 8 cm.
The side cut back on the chest Г11Г5 = 0,5...2 see the line of the side cut of the back is carried out through the points T2 and G5, continuing up to the armscye curve (point G51), and through the points T2 and B2, continuing the line down to the intersection with the bottom line (point D2). The deflection of the midpoint of a line Г5Т2 = 0,3...0,5 cm the length of the slots made in accordance with the model.
  Construction drawing of the shelves. Chest width on the drawing (see Fig. 40) is determined by the cut ГЗГ4 = A1A2 = 22,2 cm
The position of the highest point of the breast G6 on the chest is measured by the length ГЗГ6 = 0,5ГЗГ4 + 1 see
The width of the openings Г4Г5 = 16 - Г11Г5 = 16 - 0,5 = 15.5 cm.
Width of shelves on the level of the hip line Б8БЗ = (SB + Pb + Psov) - Б1Б2 = (52 + 8 + 2) - 20,5 = 41,5 see
Point G5 and B3 connect the auxiliary line, which intersects with the waist line at point T3. The deflection of the waist line Т3Т31 = 1...1.5 cm the line of the side cut is performed through the point T31 and G5, continuing the line up and aside from the point G5 cut Г5Г51 equal to the segment Г5Г51 on the back.
Through the points T31 and B3 is carried out straight until the intersection with the horizontal from point N4 (point N3). The deflection line Г5ТЗ1 in the middle of the 0.5 cm Decrease in line polutanata а1Н4 from the point N4 is 2.5 - 3 cm, the Position of the highest point of the chest G7 on the line of the breast is determined by the cut Г3Г6 = 0,5Г3Г4 + 1 = 11,1 + 1 = 12,1 cm
The position of the highest point of the chest Г6Г7 = PS.PR = 4...5, see
The angle is determined suteki cut Г8Г81 = 0,05Г3Г4 = 0,05 x 22.2 = 1.1 cm
Mouth width is measured by the length АЗА4 = А01А1 + 1 = 8,7 + 1 = 9,7 cm
The position of the highest point of cap A41 is determined by the cut Т4А41 = Dt.p + 4.5 to 5 cm.
The depth of the neck is determined by the cut А41А5 = 0,4 SSH + fashion.
The position of the auxiliary point is defined A60 cut А5А60 = 2.5 cm.
The neckline is drawn, as shown in the drawing.
The height of the openings defined by the shelves cut
Г4П4 = DP 0,5 + 6,5 = 0,5 x 36 + 6,5 = 24.5 cm.
The length of the shoulder cut is determined by the cut
А41П50 = SHP + PN.p = 16 + 2 = 18 cm
Bevel line of the shoulder cut П50П5 = 0,5...0,7 cm.
To build a line of openings determine the position of auxiliary points: 3, IB, 2 and G2.
Г4Г6 = 6.5 cm; G42 = PDS 0,25 - 1,5...1,7 cm; P5Z = 0,5П5П6.
To connect the sleeve with the armhole determine the position of the point P7. To do this, from the point L6 down through the openings lay 2.2 cm Line of openings is carried out through point P5, 4, Pb, 2, G2 and Г52.
The side pocket height determines the length of Т7К = 0,25 Dt.s - 3,5...4,5.
Line length slit pocket К1К2 = 0,2 SG + 6,5 = 16,5 cm
Position the front of the pocket is determined by the cut KK1 = 0,5К1К2 + 1.5 cm.
To determine the position of the front Darts from point K1 to the left lay 1 cm (point K10), a line mid-front tuck is carried out from the point K10 upward toward the balance point of the A41, not bringing it to the chest of 5-7 cm For a tighter fit at the chest line of the middle of the tuck continues to the chest. Solution front tuck on the waist line is 1 - 2 cm.
To determine the position of the side tuck from the point G4 to the left lay the cut Г4Г41 = 3.5 cm; in the line of pocket КК5 = 3.5 cm Point Г41 and K5 connects the straight line that intersects with the waist line at point T5. Solution Darts at the breast line Г41Г42 = 1,5...2 cm on the waist line of 1.5...2 cm Tuck carried out, as shown in the drawing.
 

 Construction drawing shelves coats with a cutting sideways (Fig. 41). Chest width on the drawing is unchanged and corresponds to the provisional calculation sections General stock shelves without cutting the barrel. The width of the armhole General allowance for the drawing of the shelves with a cutting sideways increases on abduction barrel Г41Г42 and seam primaqiune barrel to the shelf:
Г4Г5 = Shu.PR + PN.PR + Psov + retraction barrel - Г11Г5 (on the back).
Substituting the numerical values for the size 50, will receive
Г4Г5 = (10,4 + 5,6 + 1,5 + 2) - 0,5 = 19,5 - 0,5 = 19 see
To the width of the barrel at the chest line to define a universal way for all dimensions, the width of the armhole shelves Г4Г5 divided into certain areas: Г4Г41 = 3.5 cm (a constant number); Г41Г42 = 2...3 cm.
The width of the barrel Г42Г5 = 0,25 SG + 1 cm under the condition that the width of the armhole in finished form normal (for 50 size 16 cm ±0.6 from size to size).
The width of the shelves on the level of the hip line is determined by the poluobhvat hips General allowance and a retraction barrel by subtracting the value of the cut Б1Б2 in the drawing of the backrest (see Fig. 40):
Б8Б3 = (SB + Pb + PH.primaqiune barrel + Proc.seam + retraction barrel) - Б1Б2.
To build a front tuck from a point K1 to the left of the line of pocket aside 1 cm, adding half of the solution front tuck on the line of the pockets, defining the position of the middle of the tuck К1К10 = 1 + (0.5 x 2) = 2 cm.
From the point K10 to the right and to the left lay half of the solution tuck: К10К11 = 1 cm; К10К12 = 1 cm mid-Line front tuck away pocket hold up to 5 - 7 inches below the chest line. Solution Darts at the waist line is 2 cm.
To build a detachable barrel from point Г41 located on the line of the chest, held vertical to the bottom line that crosses the waist line at point T5; the line of the pocket - at the point K5; the hips at the point of B4; the bottom line is - at the point Н31.
To build the side Darts from point T5 to the right lay 0.5 cm (point T6). Right side tuck passes through the point Г41, T6, K5, left side tuck passes through the point Г42 and K5. For a more customized fit at the chest line Г42К5 carried out with the deflection in the middle of 0.3 - 0.5 cm.
The right side of the barrel passes through the points: Г42, K5, B4, Н31.
To build a tuck in the side pocket of the point K5 down the line К5Н31 lay 1 cm (point K6). The point K6 and K11 connect with a straight line. From the point K6 on this line lay the cut К6К61 = К11К12. Through the point К61 spend the vertical up to the top of the pocket (K51 point) to the hem (point N32). To the left of the point N32 lay 1 cm (point H'32). Down from this point lay the cut Н32Н33 = К51К61. Point N33 N5 and connect direct. When stitching the front Darts in the inner section of the shelf passes through the point Г41, K5(К61), B7, N33.
  Building a Board and coat lapel. Depending on the style of coat clasp side can be to the top, open, with slips and combination. If the zipper top (deaf), the lapels are not built, i.e., the Board does not have an extension at the top.
 

To determine the position line side (Fig. 42, a) parallel to the line of prosanos draw, the upper end of which is positioned in the upper loop and the lower one intersects the horizontal line passing through the point H5. The distance between the line polutanata and rim from top of loop to bottom in single breasted coat for 4.5 - 5 cm.
In products with narrow sides, wide sides in finished form can be determined from the rate of 1.75 diameter buttons. In a double-breasted coat bead width 8 - 9 cm in winter double-breasted coat 9 - 11 cm.
Depending on the model, the width of the Board (the distance between the line of prosanos and the edge of the Board) may change.
The position of the hinges in coat depending on the model. Products with zipper on three buttons the bottom loop located generally on the level of the lower edge of the valve Welt pockets. Conventional valve width of 5.5 - 6 cm.
The position of the upper loops and distance between loops depends on the length of the lapel, which varies depending on fashion trends. The distance between the hinges is usually 10 - 12 cm.
Coat with double-button closure (see Fig. 42, b) the position of the bottom hinge outline at the level of the slot of a pocket or below a half of the width of the valve. The distance between the hinges 12 to 15 cm For a winter coat with zipper on three buttons, the distance between the hinges (not counting the loop on the lapel) may increase by 1 cm.
To build the lapel determine the line of its bend. On the edge of a Board at the top of the loop put a point L (see Fig. 42, a). From the A41 to the right point on the continuation line А41П50 lay cut А41з = Stoiki - 0,7 see Through the points L and z hold a line that intersects with the line of the neck at point F. Line LF determines the position of the bend of the lapel. On a straight line perpendicular to the crease line of the lapel, hold it width. At the intersection of this line with the line ФА6, continue to the right, put a point L2. The width of the lapel is determined in accordance with the model. The points L and L2 connect direct.
Line the outer edge of the lapel is carried out by deflection from the middle of the straight ЛЛ2 (amount of deflection depends on the model). Up from point L2, on the continuation curved line ЛЛ2 lay cut Л2Л3, the length of which depends on the model. The width of the ledge lapel Л2А61 also set in accordance with the model. Usually the width of the ledge lapel Л2А61 in a single-breasted coat with a straight collar at the top is 4.5 - 5 cm (see Fig. 42, b).
The single-breasted coat with notched lapels the position of the point of the ledge lapel AB1 depends on the slope of the segment Л3А61 (see Fig. 42, a). If the segment Л3Аб1 increases, the point of the ledge AB moves to the left. Typically, the value of the segments Л2ЛЗ and Л3А61 4 - 5 cm.
It should be noted that the point of the ledge lapel A61 also depends on the length rascepa and may coincide with the point of AB, be to the left or to the right.
To build the neck angle points L and A41 (see Fig. 42, b) direct connect and its intersection with a line А60Аб put a point F0. Lydia neck angle passes through the points A41, F0, AB. When you build the neck angle auxiliary point AB0, you can move up to 1 - 2 cm.